I like that idea alot.THUNDERSTRIKE1 wrote:Blue springs would look mway better than black with so much black lol Don
TC's RC10 Project X (now with build list)
- Toasted Coastie
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
- Toasted Coastie
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
Having an issue with the right side cva. Doesn't sit in the cup far enough, and when testing, popped out of the cup twice. The left side is a good 2mm further in the cup and seats nicely, but the right side does not. This only happens when coming up to more than half speed on the road.
Anyone got any ideas? Are the cva bones that are just a smidge longer that I can use?
Anyone got any ideas? Are the cva bones that are just a smidge longer that I can use?
- vintage AE
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
Are you using the B44 front CVAs?
Check the amount of axle shims you are using on both the inside and outside of both left and right axles. Maybe you have one cva set further out than the other.
Check the amount of axle shims you are using on both the inside and outside of both left and right axles. Maybe you have one cva set further out than the other.
- scr8p
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
it's hard to tell from your pics, but make sure you have the rear arm mount on the chassis correctly. left on left, right on right, and the letters facing down. something just looks wrong back there. your ride height looks awfully high as well. add a spacer or 2 to the inside of the shock so that with the shock fully extended, there's no way for the bone to pop out.
- vintage AE
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
I think the arm mounts are on the wrong sides. When I got back into RCs recently, I got them backwards, I kept on facing the car towards me and thinking the left was on my left, oopsscr8p wrote:it's hard to tell from your pics, but make sure you have the rear arm mount on the chassis correctly. left on left, right on right, and the letters facing down. something just looks wrong back there.


- Toasted Coastie
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
Ok, I am using the rears. Switched some things around, and hot dang, that thing is flying. Intill someting popped in the tranny. So how do you rebuild a vintage stealth to handle a 4900 motor?
Editted to add: It was NOT the trany, it was the pin in the cvd. Just have to get a new pin.....
Editted to add: It was NOT the trany, it was the pin in the cvd. Just have to get a new pin.....
- Toasted Coastie
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
Just took apart the rear end, you guys were right, I had the mounts on the wrong side.....
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- Toasted Coastie
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
going to try to paint this. Seems like an easy/simple enough scheme. I'm going to steer clear of doing many decals, but I do have one in mind that definitely is going on....
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
very nice build im looking ninto designs for ideas im getting a gold pan at the end of the month and i want to build something wicked are the brushless really living up to the hype??? ive been a little weary on trying them cuz i know nothing about it but my gold pan might be the first for me any thing i need to know about them???
- Toasted Coastie
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
Brushless is easy in my opinion. I have no idea how to rebuild a brushed motor. For example, my son's Rustler motor fried the other day. So I threw it out and bought a new one, instead of trying to rebuild it.vintage88 wrote:very nice build im looking ninto designs for ideas im getting a gold pan at the end of the month and i want to build something wicked are the brushless really living up to the hype??? ive been a little weary on trying them cuz i know nothing about it but my gold pan might be the first for me any thing i need to know about them???
I think that the 4900 system I put in might be borderline overkill, yet fun at the same time. While the car isn't ready for "primetime" I tested it last night. Wheelied right away. Fast as hell. Was cheap purchase, $103 at one of the LHS' in town here. It is the XP/Reedy combo (XP 450 with 4900kv motor) You can probably find them attractively priced elsewhere as well.
I have the AI/LRP brushless system in my Yokomo 870c as well. $130 for the setup at the same LHS. Billed as a 13.5 turn motor, I think it is around 3300kv. Runs that car very good as well. Fast, but not ridiculous...
I say, if you are building it to be a replica of something authentic, stick to brushed. I want to play, and I like speed, so I went brushless....
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
thank you very much i appreciate the help is it true u have to have a fan, special battery, and a special esc for the brushless sorry i know i sound like an idiot right now but like i said i was always scared to mess with brushless because i know absolutly nothing lol
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
I really don't think you need a special battery, but brushless motors do seem to enjoy LiPo batteries more than others. I think that you can get a ton of information on them in the R/C Tech forum about brushless esc's, but you certainly want to watch the temps. While they do get a bit hotter than brushed, I think you can get away with no fans if you are doing 4-5 minute runs. I let mine sit in between runs.
- cyclepsych0
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Re: TC's RC10 Project X (closer to the finish now with pics)
Nice progress on your build Coastie! I've enjoyed following this one!



"Relax. Alright? My Old Man is a television repairman....... Got this ultimate set of tools... I can fix it!!" - Spicoli
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