RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I am running the regular 2WD modified class and I probably had the slowest motor in the main and in qualifying... a 13.5 brushless LRP X-12 motor which they run as stock-class down here. Most all of the guys in that A-Main picture are running from a 7.5 to 9.5 motor in their B4's.
I have an LRP X-12 9.5 motor stored, but was just too lazy to put it in my RC10, then after the 1st qualifiying round was over and I was TQ, I decided to just leave it in as I didn't feel the need for more power to go faster. I'm not a big fan of wheel spin (increased tire wear) or wheelies when the track blue-grooves and like having just enough power.

On one weekend race event, I ran the 2WD Stock and 2WD mod classes with the same car, same motor (13.5) and same battery back to back. It is hilarious when people realize you are running a stock class motor in the modified class and are doing the same or faster laptimes than the top 3 or 4 racers in the mod class with a 20 yr old style buggy and to boot, 1990 style wheels and tires (not the new wheels or tire compounds)!

On this day in the pics, I ran Associated Team Car front wheels with Proline Edge tires, and in the rear Team Car wheels and Losi X-2000 tires I have had glued to rims after trying them way back in 1994-95.

By the way: Good Luck Derby Dan and others racing the vintage cars with the current cars. It can be done and be a huge amount of fun!
I prefer my RC10 buggy over it's grandson, the RC10 B4.

That's a gorgeous build and awesome body you painted. You've got more skill and cajones than me to run that that way. I love the old school cars, it's too bad that the cost of the really cool vintage parts has to be as high as it is. Then again, maybe that's part of the appeal. Nice work regardless.

I Love racing Mine for the responces like.."What is That" To WOW i used to have One of those. Or the best is Oh cool I have one of those at home...WANT TO BUY IT Well ya..

Thanks Guys!
I do have to agree I really enjoy the responses I get or overhear when I run my RC10. One guy who used to race a long time ago was telling his 2 kids, when they asked what kind of car that was (hopefully because it was running so smooth and fast), while I did a practice lap. He told them, "That is the style of car we all used to race back when I was your age! Thats the first RC10 from 20 years ago before the Associated B4 ever existed. That's the original race buggy of the 80's and 90's"
I over heard that comment while continuing to run laps and it really brought a smile to my face!


Hotshotman, that's my body from the 90's. I really need to paint a new repro one before I break the original one as this one has the air scoop for the electronic speed control!
You can just see the airscoop here on this left-hand side shot, next to the side window.

Ruffy, could you post up your current set up (shock pistons/oil/springs/locations & camber rod positions)?

I'm getting my body started tomorrow @ the painters and may be able to hit a track here in the next couple weeks. Would love to start somewhere close when I get there (amazingly, I always ran Kyosho/Losi BITD, never did run an AE car).

Thanks in advance...

Ruffy will ask this as well, but what track are you running at and what tires are you going to use? I think that the track that I am on now uses a way different set-up than the one Ruffy and Harris are on-

I have 3 different track I run on, 2 indoor clay high bite (WCRC & OCRC), 1 outdoor high bite (Pegasus) when damp. Indoor tracks are JC Gold Barcode tire type tracks (or Losi Pink/Proline MC), outdoor track is a JC Double Dees or Flipouts/Rounders type track. (outdoor) At big races it grooves up really nice, we usually swap out to Panther Switches or Losi Taper style tires. (indoor) one rarely grooves up but stays high bite, the other grooves occasionally.

I have a full set of Panther Switches (soft) already, I will be starting with Rounders & Gold Barcodes for fronts - Green Flipouts & Gold Barcodes for rears. Should cover me for the tracks for a while. I will probably mount up a set of Holeshots as a backup tire, they seem to work everywhere.

All 3 tracks seem to like supercross style jumps. I will be starting out with a 17.5 for now, but probably picking up a 10.5 once I get used to running buggy again. Been running nothing but short course for the past couple years.

Here are pictures of my car (I haven't cleaned her yet since last run) and setup sheet:

Just for reference JK, this track setup works great on what your outdoor track sounds like, by the choice of tires. Most here use Double Dees.

As you can see here I am using the stock rear inner suspension mount (1.5 deg) with B2-B3 Associated Universals and RC10T2-T3 0 deg rear truck hubs so that I can run those axles and run B2-B3 wheels that are 2.2 diam. You coud also run the truck 3 deg hubs if you need more rear bite, but you might have a problem then with the loss of front end traction you might have.

For the 1st time in my life, I also added a little block of lead weight to the front noseplate that you can see. I don't know how much, I just did a trial and error on a practice day until the car had a very neutral feeling with no delay in steering input traction. The size of the lead is 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/8" thick.

*Added: I forgot to state that I have one red o-ring on the outside of the front shock shafts, and two red o-rings on the rear shock shafts to prevent the chassis from bottoming out on the huge jump-landings.

I hope this helps you and others a little.


Ruffy's RC10 Current Setup PDF

Perfect starting point for me, THANK YOU!! Looks like we have all the shock positions & camber links the same already, so just time to play with shocks/springs.

ps...that front weight sounds like 1/4 oz. I already have a full ounce up front (28 grams) to try to keep the nose down.

To keep the nose down I loosen the slipper just a hair, the weight I added mainly just for more weight-transfer to the nose for more front traction (steering) off power in the turns.

Ruffy and I are hitting the track for a test session tomorrow. I built a "new" RC10 to race so I want to get it dialed. This one uses a completely stock setup, except the wide GT front axles so I can use B4 front wheels. The rear will use the Thunder Tiger wheels. My settings are different than Ruffy's so to give another option I will post what I'm running. I will try to post some pics and video as well.

Ruffy wrote:To keep the nose down I loosen the slipper just a hair, the weight I added mainly just for more weight-transfer to the nose for more front traction (steering) off power in the turns.

No slipper...I'm running a 6 gear

You race at the Asylum right? That car looks great. I should be out there once I get my rc10 running.

With only 1.5 in the back do you feel that the back is not to loose. What is the stock toe on a b4 is it more..

JK Racing wrote:

Ruffy wrote:To keep the nose down I loosen the slipper just a hair, the weight I added mainly just for more weight-transfer to the nose for more front traction (steering) off power in the turns.

No slipper...I'm running a 6 gear

What did you change to run the 48p spur and pinion with the 6 gear trans? I have one I am going to restore but figured I would need to find a stealth before I started anything else. After reading this thread I might just stick with the 6 gear and get to work on the other stuff.