For the record and for this thread if anyone re-visits old posts... Before you go and drill a 4th hole in the rear tower, make sure that it has the old rear tower. The B4.1WC and B4.2 came with a tower with 3 holes, the inside hole is that 4th hole that is drilled on old towers. They did away with the outside hole. I'm also pretty sure this was a running change in the part as well. So know before you drill. The way to tell is that the shock tower is pre-trimmed in the area where a big bore shock cap would normally rub under the mounting hole.
The front shock tower was also a running change... The new one is beefier in all areas and also has 2mm added where the shock mounts to it. But not as big a deal as the rear tower.
Just would hate to see people drilling out a 4th hole in the new 3 hole tower.
Thanks for the information update Sean. I'm taking the plunge on a B4.2 and will be rebuilding it (it was lightly used by a guy) with an RCRD +8mm aluminum chassis.
When I do the rebuild I would like to take care of as many of the tips you guys have while I'm working on it. For example, in the B4.2 thread on rctech there is mention of some rear hub carrier grub screw drill and thread tapping modification.
Does the advice on using the B44 rear hub for larger bearings and switching ball cups to rpm still apply to a B4.2?
Also where can I source a lexan undertray? Seems simple, but google search is not helping me or I'm not using the correct search terms.
Can someone explain what the advantage is with the hex adaptors for the rear wheels (guessing it's more surface area than the old drive pin setup)? The hex adaptors on the front axles have me really stumped as to what advantage that setup has since it's just an axle holding the bearing, no drive. Seems unnecessary?
Asked the same hex question a while back before converting my SC10. I find it easier to clean the front wheels(no need to remove bearings) and it allows you to rotate on the truck. Have not converted my B4 or RC-10(OIN) yet.
flipwils11 wrote:Does the advice on using the B44 rear hub for larger bearings and switching ball cups to rpm still apply to a B4.2?
Also where can I source a lexan undertray? Seems simple, but google search is not helping me or I'm not using the correct search terms.
Can someone explain what the advantage is with the hex adaptors for the rear wheels (guessing it's more surface area than the old drive pin setup)? The hex adaptors on the front axles have me really stumped as to what advantage that setup has since it's just an axle holding the bearing, no drive. Seems unnecessary?
i beleive the 4.2 comes with the hubs that take the large outer bearing.
i don't think i've ever seen an undertray for the b4 series. chassis protectors are available (stick on) jconcepts makes them.
hex's are just the "latest and greatest". i have resisted the conversion but now the local shops stopped stockinh bearing fronts and pin rears so i have to buy online.
sooner or later i guess i'll have to "upgrade".
kaiser wrote:
hex's are just the "latest and greatest". i have resisted the conversion but now the local shops stopped stockinh bearing fronts and pin rears so i have to buy online.
sooner or later i guess i'll have to "upgrade".
I too have not done much to mine from stock. Quick question, What would be a good tire choice with some style of "street tread" for the stock wheels?
Getting them mounted on a spare set of wheels for the rear would be great. The stock ones I have are bald!
Ugh, B4.2 report from the indoor carpet track.... Such a nice car to drive and so easy to drive quick, and wow the steering is so quick! BUT, the rear shock screws that hold the bottoms to the rear arms backed out... three times, making me DNF the 2nd qualifier and the B main. I also broke a front plastic arm for a pretty minor hit to the front end during a practice.
I have noticed this car has some stripped screws since I bought it from someone on rctech, which may explain the shock bottom screws backing out repeatedly.
The metal aftermarket chassis seems very nice though and got a lot of looks at the track.
flipwils11 wrote:Ugh, B4.2 report from the indoor carpet track.... Such a nice car to drive and so easy to drive quick, and wow the steering is so quick! BUT, the rear shock screws that hold the bottoms to the rear arms backed out... three times, making me DNF the 2nd qualifier and the B main. I also broke a front plastic arm for a pretty minor hit to the front end during a practice.
I have noticed this car has some stripped screws since I bought it from someone on rctech, which may explain the shock bottom screws backing out repeatedly.
The metal aftermarket chassis seems very nice though and got a lot of looks at the track.
The "joys" of buying anything used! I know cordless screwdrivers have become the new "thing" in pit boxes starting in about 06', if you have a good one such as a Hitachi and set the clutch, no problem. Buy a cheap one, or don't set the clutch and its strip city-
i'm a little late to the +8mm & big bore party. this past weekend i did the upgrade.
+8mm chassis set
AE big bores
lots of yaiba bling
ftw body. jc high clearance wing.
10.5 tekin in blinky lol
no ballast weight atm
3800 venom shorty
still rocking bearing wheels and pin drive. (just have too many wheels and all my cars use the same wheels, i ain't jumping on the hex train yet!)
OMG what a difference. with a kit base/maifield insipred setup i went out and owned our big outdoor track. it was a blast, and looked great doing it.
between the oddball body and all the yaiba red alloy people thought is was some brand new model.
