RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

So can I deduce from your build that there are no issues running a brushless motor backwards? I guess if timing is set from the factory at 0* and any timing can be adjusted through the transmitter then it really wouldn't matter which way it turns. This was a problem in the old days with the brushed motors. They were faster forward than in reverse rotation which made mid motor experiments a bit rough.

I will say yes on that Fred-- that there is no issue with running it 'backwards'.

The only scientific proof I have is a T3 that is running the identical motor. They are both capable of the same top speed.

The only problem I see with running the motor and gearbox in that configuration is that the motor will counter rotate in relation to the wheels. In other words if the wheels are spinning forwards, the motor is spinning backwards. The same is true in the conventional rear motor configuration too. The reason why this is an issue is because a motor that rotates in the same direction as the wheels will help transfer weight to the rear of the car during acceleration. With a counter rotating motor in relation to wheel rotation, that extra weight doesn't get transferred back. With the motor inside the wheelbase, the straight line acceleration should be less than with the motor out back where more weight is on the rear tires. This is why the mid motor Cougar SV and the new TLR 22 have their motors setup to rotate in the same direction as the wheels. Those cars will probably hook up better than a rear motor car.

This isn't a problem if you don't have any traction issues though. For a play car that isn't racing it shouldn't matter at all though and I can see that this is just a fun car so it probably isn't a concern. As long as you are having fun, who cares! It still looks like a neat setup.

fredswain wrote:
This isn't a problem if you don't have any traction issues though.

LOL-- you hit it on the head-- rear traction certainly isn't a problem! anything that might keep weight forward and/or provide a little rear end slip will be a help. It wheelies on command, even at 3/4 throttle.

yeah, it was a bit of an experiment-- thanks!

Has anyone converted the GT trans to electric?

yes, we have done it a couple of ways here.

mrtallguy wrote:
yes, we have done it a couple of ways here.

I'll go searching, but do you have a link or two, please?

no link that i know of what ive done and seen done is 2 ways and i have done both.
1st. we were still using the gt chassis and we had a machinist friend/racer make us a motor mount using the orignal fuel motor adjustments.

2nd. we use a b4 motor plate flipped over drilled 2 new holes for the transcase and used some spacers.

both of these ways make it a mid-motor car

sweet.

I like option #2-- as i have a B4 plate & cover in the parts bin.

Thanks!

fredswain wrote:The only problem I see with running the motor and gearbox in that configuration is that the motor will counter rotate in relation to the wheels. In other words if the wheels are spinning forwards, the motor is spinning backwards. The same is true in the conventional rear motor configuration too. The reason why this is an issue is because a motor that rotates in the same direction as the wheels will help transfer weight to the rear of the car during acceleration. With a counter rotating motor in relation to wheel rotation, that extra weight doesn't get transferred back. With the motor inside the wheelbase, the straight line acceleration should be less than with the motor out back where more weight is on the rear tires. This is why the mid motor Cougar SV and the new TLR 22 have their motors setup to rotate in the same direction as the wheels. Those cars will probably hook up better than a rear motor car.

This isn't a problem if you don't have any traction issues though. For a play car that isn't racing it shouldn't matter at all though and I can see that this is just a fun car so it probably isn't a concern. As long as you are having fun, who cares! It still looks like a neat setup.

I didn't know that
So a rear motor car with a motor that rotates in the same direction as the wheels will help transfer weight to the rear of the car during acceleration.

Noted

Morten

Been tinkering around with it--

It has been slowly eating diff gears, Wracking my brain & the internet for some sort of 2:25 / 45 tooth aluminum diff gear-- no luck. I hoping that a HG gear surfaces somewhere.

In the meantime-- it seems the best course for getting a all-metal transmission will be to use a B4 gearbox (the RC10GT trans sits too high[dogbones will fall out] & figuring out a motor plate will just be an additional PITA). However, this will require cutting a hole int he chassis to allow the trans case to sit as low as it was designed to. IF I go that route, I'll fab up a graphite chassis & use a 10T front noseplate. This will also allow for elongating the wheelbase a little-- I think to match that of a RC10GT.

As said earlier, the RC10GT body works great, however, i am still pining for the original intent. Soooo... I have a brand-new buggy body i am working on fitting & soon to be painting, complete with wing. It does look good so far. Any suggestions on a paintjob? I am thinking some sort of speed stripes...




I need some help with finding front tires, please! I have the 2.2 Sandpaws on the rear. They measure out to about 4" in diameter. The 2.2 10T front tires are about the same diameter (3.75"), but look a bit too wide. I mounted a set of OEM 2.2 fronts, and they just look anemic.
Are there any thinner front tires with a 3.75" diameter that will easily fit on an RC10? Of course this will require a thin set of rims, too. I have done some quick searches on Tower & Google, but noting has jumped out at me.

Ever heard about the J82 ?
The front wheels look like the narrow 10T tyres

http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_39&products_id=252

Morten

Snoop-

Thanks to you & rapscallion for the leads.


Rims - PN: 3300

Groove Front Tires - PN: 3000

I just got a set of these in today. I am VERY happy with the look! They are the identical diameter as the 10T wheels.



I did have to run them inside out, to match the rear track width. A slight shaving of the steering arm on the knuckle was the only issue.

Your welcome
And I have a project that these front tyres will fit right on


Morten

finally got the body painted.

I'm happy with it (this was the most time & $$ I've ever spent painting a body). I just need to get some vintage "Team Associated" stickers. Anyone know where they can be found? I have searched & turned up very little.






I have some 3mm CF sheet on it's way to me. I'm planning on reproducing some battery straps out of it & fabbing up a one-piece front shock tower with it.

nice project...holy diving board!! Too bad you can't find a VW engine to put on that rear of the chassis. I'd start looking for some toys to donate a motor.