RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

You can still buy the RC10GT plates, but it is harder to find RC10T.

I recommend that if you don't already have a starting point, buy a runner rc-10t from the bay.

ED

I'll add a few of my current project to this thread...

soniccj5 wrote:You can still buy the RC10GT plates, but it is harder to find RC10T.

I recommend that if you don't already have a starting point, buy a runner rc-10t from the bay.

ED

Thanks for the advice. I just recently got my dads old rc10 off of him though so I think im going to try and build it with a GT plate. Now finding time to start this will be the next thing...

Stock Parts:

Stock front/rear arm mounts
Used Worlds arms front/rear
Servo Mounts
6 gear transmission
Front carriers/inline steering knuckles & alloy axles
B4 RTR rear axles/dogbones
B4 wheels
Original 6 gear tranny Gear cover
Losi white ball cups
antenna mount

Modified/aftermarket parts:

Gold A Stamp, powder coated semi gloss black
Front nose tubes/rear wing tubes polished
CE rear bulkhead cut to imitate a Worlds
Cut battery cup
B4 RTR shocks (blue stripped off & polished)
Modified B4 rear hub carriers (inner bearing machined deep & hinge pin hole opened up)
Atlas Front/Rear CF towers
Losi alloy steering
unknown old Titanium turnbuckles (help? old Lundsford)

Electronics:

Mamba Max Pro Brushless Speed Control
Blue Bird 705mg short servo
Spektrum Receiver
Losi 17.5 brushless motor

aeiou wrote: Front
• Dynotech Klein front arms (RPM worlds arm replica)
• RC10T front nose plate and bulkhead
• RC10T2 front shock tower
• B4 caster blocks (drilled to accept 1/8” hinge pins)
• B4 steering blocks
• B4 kingpins
• B4 front axles
• JConcepts Rulux B4 front wheels

OK, I have a question. I sourced aluminum front caster blocks and B4 steering knuckles from inetrc.com and the hinge pins are obviously not going to work with the stock hinge pins. According to this post quoted above, the caster blocks were drilled to accept 1/8" hinge pins (is that the stock size, i.e. my gold pan's stock hinge pins?) but the steering blocks and the verticle axis holes in the caster blocks are obviously another smaller diameter pin size. Do I use B4 pins for the vertical holes here holding the steering knuckle to the steering block? Also listed above are B4 kingpins but I'm not sure where they are used in the build.

b4 kingpins hold the b4 knuckle on to the b4 castor block. the b4 castor block needs to be drilled out to 1/8" so it's the same size as the rc10 arms at the outer hinge pin.

OK, check on the kingpins.

I have the Racer's edge rear hub carriers but I don't want to modify them like Jeff had to in his modern/vintage build thread by drilling them out. As I understand it from the back and forth in these posts, if I use Klein arms in the rear with B44 CDV's and the Racer's Edge rear hub carriers, I won't need to modify the hub carriers. Is this right? And I can use the rear B44 CDV's right, part #9756, not the front cdv's for a B44?

I don't want to have to drill these things out if possible.

If you're using the Klein arms and B44 CVAs then you don't want to use the B4 hubs. Try using the RPM GT hubs. The racer's edge B4 hubs set the axle out farther than the RPM Gt hubs and I doubt the B44 CVA's will reach.

I guess I thought there was a CVD for the B44 (front or rear) that would work with the Kleins and Racers Edge hubs. Or some other CVD's for another model which have a length that will work.

Edit: Alright, tonight's progress. I fitted the Racer's Edge hubs as-is (no drilling) to the RPM rear arms and I have a B44 roller I bought a few weeks ago that I completely forgot about so I used the CVD's from that (rear ones) for my test. Confirmed, as others have said, the CVD is too long and as the suspension travels upward it hits the limit of the travel in the Stealth outdrive. I also happened to have a brand new set of MIP CVD's for the B3 I started running, so I put those together and tested them. They are too short. Surely Goldilocks, my CE gold pan for this project, can find a CVD that isn't too long and isn't too short? OR, the Klein arms in the rear will be the ticket.

Oh yeah, and something else weird. The inner hinge pin going through the arm mount to the chassis wasn't long enough to protrude through the other side when I test fitted the RPM rear arms. Hopefully the Klein arms will work here, or was there a step I missed where the arm needs to modified or there's a longer inner hinge pin you must use?

How can Tower, amain, and rcplanet all be out of B44 CVD's (asc9756) all at the same time? AE's site has them at full list price and their shipping is a ripoff. I guess I'm in no rush as I'm waiting on other parts anyway.

I'm mounting a Viper body to a chassis using the RC10T front tower. I've measured and double checked both the body and space in the tower - I was hoping other members who had done the same could provide me with their measurements. A little assurance before I cut into a new body....

sneako43 wrote:I'm mounting a Viper body to a chassis using the RC10T front tower. I've measured and double checked both the body and space in the tower - I was hoping other members who had done the same could provide me with their measurements. A little assurance before I cut into a new body....

Anyone?

sneako43 wrote:

sneako43 wrote:I'm mounting a Viper body to a chassis using the RC10T front tower. I've measured and double checked both the body and space in the tower - I was hoping other members who had done the same could provide me with their measurements. A little assurance before I cut into a new body....

Anyone?

I used a worlds front tower. It's got a bigger hole. But some measurements might be the same. What specifically are you looking for?

RichieRich wrote:

sneako43 wrote:

sneako43 wrote:I'm mounting a Viper body to a chassis using the RC10T front tower. I've measured and double checked both the body and space in the tower - I was hoping other members who had done the same could provide me with their measurements. A little assurance before I cut into a new body....

Anyone?

I used a worlds front tower. It's got a bigger hole. But some measurements might be the same. What specifically are you looking for?

Thanks for replying. I measured the stock 10T tower at 1 1/8" at it's widest point so I know I'll need to find the center and go from there. I wanted to compare what other member's cut their bodies to and if the body has to be cut farther in from the nose past the original body line on the side to the new width. Does that make sense???

Looking from the top, my cut starts 43 mm in from the tip of the front. So I guess I'm not cutting on the same line as the sides where the steering exits the body, it's a little farther forward. The body is 36mm wide where it passes through the shock tower, then widens out to 44mm at the tip. I have to put the nose through the shock tower sideways when I put the body on.