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Think I've found the diff solution, I remembered a part used in my micro helicopters called the feathering shaft , basically a 2mm hardened steel rod that's internally threaded at both ends for some tiny screws , this part is just 3mm shorter than the Hotshot diff spindle so all I had to do was drill 1.5mm into each outdrive with a 2.5mm drill , a little fettling and in it goes , this stops the axial thrust from the bevel gears from binding up.

Similar concept to the "frogshot" mod used on blackfoots (blackfeet?) and frogs. Should work well!

Well it's all back together but now it's pitch dark and tomorrow looks like I'll have little or no time for play so may be a little while before I test it , the diffs are still free even under belt tension though so it's promising.

Was able to find a few min to test the mini Mustang this morning and ...... the two speed dropped a screw out of the clutch , found time to fix it and try again this evening and it runs well , diffs are still free under belt tension , still wish I could have made the Hotshot hybrid diff an option for all but it's just a bit more involved than I'd hoped for .

Way off topic but something I'm pleased with , this is drawn in fusion 360 from two pictures of cheetahs and home printed

That looks fantastic, Dadio. Well done, sir!

I think Picasso would be envious.

I chuffed to bits with how the pose came out , I was scared it would not balance on three legs , I even angled the tail a bit in the hope of balancing it and it just made it look more natural , dumb really as the tail is meant for balance in life so its obvious really it should work .

Totally off topic , I printed 4 of these dragons for my grandchildren and a friend saw them and ordered 2 more , its a three core filament that makes the model change colour depending on the angle you look at it .

Dadio wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2023 5:10 am Totally off topic , I printed 4 of these dragons for my grandchildren and a friend saw them and ordered 2 more , its a three core filament that makes the model change colour depending on the angle you look at it .

20231015_100456.jpg

It maybe off topic, but it gives some idea... Could be great to play with some rim designs and this filament for a psychedelic build

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2023 7:01 am

Dadio wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2023 5:10 am Totally off topic , I printed 4 of these dragons for my grandchildren and a friend saw them and ordered 2 more , its a three core filament that makes the model change colour depending on the angle you look at it .
20231015_100456.jpg

It maybe off topic, but it gives some idea... Could be great to play with some rim designs and this filament for a psychedelic build

I used a two colour filament for my Sand Rover hub caps , it could look cool for a body but you'd need to align it carefully if it took more than one part to print .

Very basic 1mm and 0.5mm camber spacers for the Mini Mustang

Have you ever experienced any printing issues with different nozzles? I tried a steel nozzle for wear resistance and I think it affected nozzle heating and layer bonding significantly. Adjusting nozzle temperature had minor improvement. After changing back to brass, my part strength is back to previous levels of goodness. Just curious if you've had any similar experience.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Mon Nov 13, 2023 1:05 pm Have you ever experienced any printing issues with different nozzles? I tried a steel nozzle for wear resistance and I think it affected nozzle heating and layer bonding significantly. Adjusting nozzle temperature had minor improvement. After changing back to brass, my part strength is back to previous levels of goodness. Just curious if you've had any similar experience.

When you change nozzle you need to retune the PID of the printer to get good results , brass has really good conduction compared to steel so the printer needs to give more current to the heater for a steel nozzle , usually there's an auto PID tuning function on Marlin firmware printers to use to recalibrate .
If you don't do it the nozzle temp can be really wrong and inconsistent causing bad layer adhesion .
Propper PID tuning gets the nozzle temp right and stops it overshooting to correct , the current is constantly being turned up and down to keep it in the sweet spot , if it's not calibrated well it will get too hot then too cold as it looks for the sweet spot , long-winded but I hope it helps .

I recently bought some Polypropylene (PP) filament , the type of plastic used for Tuperware food storage containers . Reason being I was pretty sure it's what was used for PB Mini Mustang suspension components , I'm even more sure now .
I'd seen a few YouTube tutorials on printing with it and although it has superb layer bonding , toughness and ductility it's not without its problems to print , in short PP will stick perfectly to PP and nothing else !
There is a quick down and dirty solution though , most regular sticky tape is PP so you just tape up the bed and print on the tape , now I tried this but I used a smooth PEI bed plate that may have been the problem as the filament stuck very well to the tape but the tape peeled off the bed leaving a very warped part .
At this point I could have stripped the PEI coating off the bed so the tape was sticking to the spring steel plate directly but I only had two plates for my P1P and didn't want to ruin one so I ordered a cheap plate with fancy patterns on each side thinking I could strip the coating off the cheap plate , after ordering the new plate I found that Magigoo made a special glue just for PP so I ordered some of that too .
So my next attempt was with the new plate and just adding the Magigoo glue to it , the result is not perfect but way better , may be my own fault as Magigoo recommend a 20mm brim and I only used 5mm .
Below are pictures of the first badly warped part and the second usable but just slightly warped part . As you can see the overall print quality of the second part is very clean and its just about the same feel as the original PB Mini Mustang arms for flex and strength , I tested the badly printed part and I can bend it double with no sign of breaking this stuff might be just right for Yokomo 834B front arms as well .

Dadio wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 10:02 am There is a quick down and dirty solution though , most regular sticky tape is PP so you just tape up the bed and print on the tape , now I tried this but I used a smooth PEI bed plate that may have been the problem as the filament stuck very well to the tape but the tape peeled off the bed leaving a very warped part .
At this point I could have stripped the PEI coating off the bed so the tape was sticking to the spring steel plate directly but I only had two plates for my P1P and didn't want to ruin one so I ordered a cheap plate with fancy patterns on each side thinking I could strip the coating off the cheap plate , after ordering the new plate I found that Magigoo made a special glue just for PP so I ordered some of that too .

I take note of this. Engineering plate is perfectly flat and should be the first choice for this...