RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hey y'all,
I'm a fairly new poster, but have lurked a good bit over the years. I live mostly over at TamiyaClub.

This is my first gold pan since 1987, a B-stamp RC10 CE. It's in wonderful shape with no aftermarket parts and looks to have only been gently driven. Current ESC in it is an old Hobbico/Duratrax setup. I've got a futaba steering servo in it now (it's backwards in the photo and not bolted in yet). Picked up an AE steering linkage set yesterday also, along with a set of Avid RC bearings, and may swap out the ESC for a Novak period-correct one.

So the plan is just to strip, clean, and put back together as it originally came. I'll put a BOKI Protech II body/wing on it and do it up in non-boxart colors (which is something I rarely do). It'll be a gentle runner, as I've made it a point to run all of my shelf queens now.

It's an odd thing to live the Tamiya way of doing things for so many years, then you look at the AE manual and see how crude it is compared to other offerings. But still charming in its own way Heck, I've got a Bolink Eliminator 10 coming soon, and that thing is super spartan.

- B

NWarty wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 10:48 am I'll put a BOKI Protech II body/wing on it and do it up in non-boxart colors (which is something I rarely do). It'll be a gentle runner, as I've made it a point to run all of my shelf queens now.

If you aren't set on that body, I'd use a JConcepts Protector. It has a similar look to the Protech II but the fit is much better.

Although it comes with a wing, a repo original one look better.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 12:18 pm

NWarty wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 10:48 am I'll put a BOKI Protech II body/wing on it and do it up in non-boxart colors (which is something I rarely do). It'll be a gentle runner, as I've made it a point to run all of my shelf queens now.

If you aren't set on that body, I'd use a JConcepts Protector. It has a similar look to the Protech II but the fit is much better.

Although it comes with a wing, a repo original one look better.

That's good to know, thanks JC!

I've also ordered some 2.2" dish wheels, front and rears, from JC Racing in order to run modern tires.

Just so you know, that ESC is a Novak T-4 sold as a Duratrax ESC.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 1:49 pm Just so you know, that ESC is a Novak T-4 sold as a Duratrax ESC.

Love learning this type of stuff. Thanks! I do have a Novak 410-M5 that I may swap it out with (most likely).

Totally just gathering parts at this point, but I have an idea of where I want this build to go. Aesthetically it'll be a tribute, but kept stock and not chopped up.

NWarty wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 12:23 pm I've also ordered some 2.2" dish wheels, front and rears, from JC Racing in order to run modern tires.

Just pay attention to which fronts you bought.

If you got the narrow fronts, you should use slim fit tires. They are still available but options are limited
(comparatively).

If you got wide fronts, any standard 2.2 front should fit.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 2:10 pm

NWarty wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 12:23 pm I've also ordered some 2.2" dish wheels, front and rears, from JC Racing in order to run modern tires.

Just pay attention to which fronts you bought.

If you got the narrow fronts, you should use slim fit tires. They are still available but options are limited
(comparatively).

If you got wide fronts, any standard 2.2 front should fit.

Thanks Juiced!
I did get the narrows for the fronts. I used the Schumacher front pin spike 2.2's on the JCRacing Astute wheels for my Astute resto and they're a perfect fit. I did see that Schu have 2.2 mini pins so I'm assuming those would work just fine on their RC10 wheels?

Edit: I did also get a set of the wide front wheels and a pair of Schumacher Mini Dart 2.2 tires, front & rear.

My gold pan is alive!

After an hour of fiddling, adjusting, soldering, re-soldering, investigating, and frustration, it's running! After further investigation, the tiny negative lead on the servo pin connector on the esc was glitching out, frayed and coming loose, so I yanked it from the connector and re-soldered it. Greatsuccessborat.jif

Remember Clark Griswold after the 10K house lights turn on, then off, then he punches the plastic Santa Claus in the face? Yeah, that me about 6pm last night.

Funny how you have to remember the little things you did 30+ years ago to make RC toy car go vroom when using vintage components.

NWarty wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 2:18 pm Edit: I did also get a set of the wide front wheels and a pair of Schumacher Mini Dart 2.2 tires, front & rear.

Excellent choice. You said "gentle runner", so it may not matter, but I have found Mini Darts to work very well on my dirt/grass track. I've run them on all of my Schuey buggies (2WD and 4WD).

1911Colt wrote: ↑Thu Jul 20, 2023 10:15 am

NWarty wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 2:18 pm Edit: I did also get a set of the wide front wheels and a pair of Schumacher Mini Dart 2.2 tires, front & rear.

but I have found Mini Darts to work very well on my dirt/grass track. I've run them on all of my Schuey buggies (2WD and 4WD).

Fantastic!
I do plan on taking it to a local track, along with my restored Astute, and just bash it around for an hour. It's been a very long time since I've done that.

Finished the body on the Blackfoot Jeep. It needs a different bumper and a few odd pieces but it doesn't look too bad.

I helped a friend clean up a Marketplace Stampede he bought for his son's birthday. We haven't turned wrenches on RC cars together since building our RC10GT's 25 years ago.

When you are MANY hours into a print, and the power goes out. So this is what I did yesterday, and will do again today.

Just cleaned stuff up from the racing last weekend. Documented the winning car so I can put it away until it gets a chance to run again!

More to do to clean em up and get ready for next races.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 21, 2023 7:22 am When you are MANY hours into a print, and the power goes out. So this is what I did yesterday, and will do again today.

this advertised feature did not work on my Ender 5 Plus... But even if it worked, most of the prints would be lost : once the bed is down in temp, print detachs by itself resulting in either a layer shift (at best) or a gigantic unorganized spaghetti mess... Plan to put an UPS next to your printer, especially if power issues are frequent...