RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I think many of us are also experimenting with the B4 rear hubs and the B44 REAR CVD bone. Should be adequate length. Im going to see how it looks, but I may play around with different Rpm carriers.


MOmo

Alright. Here are the latest pics.



Another top view:

BOOBIES!!!!!!!!!!!



looks pretty sweet, dude.

excelleeeent! (with my best wayns world voice)

MOmo wrote:I think many of us are also experimenting with the B4 rear hubs and the B44 REAR CVD bone. Should be adequate length. Im going to see how it looks, but I may play around with different Rpm carriers.


MOmo

I already tried that.... didn't really like how low the axle set in the a-arm.... I have also tried TC5 Rear Hubs, which would work, except they sit too High. I played around with some Kyosho rear hubs and they would really be good if the bone from the cvd fit better in the outdrive... I am going to continue to play with these hubs since I have uber amounts of them... (Maybe its sacrelige to put Japanese parts on a RC10?) Only problem is those particular hubs are not that strong.

If anyone is looking for the Losi (2038) Ultimate hobbies still has them listed in stock. I already ordered some,

just wondering do you have to drill and tap new holes in the nose brace tubes.just starting to get parts together now for my own conversion and noticed that the 10t nose braces are to long?are these different to the gt ones?

GT/T2 & 10T nose tubes are the same. You have to drill and tap them for use on a buggy with this front end because the nose plate is moved back in short wheel base position.

yeah, you may want to cut them too and place the cut end in the cup of the 10T front bulkhead

My intent was to minimize cutting, drilling, tapping, etc. So, I left the tubes long but I did have to drill and tap new holes.

do you have any issues with the inside of the rim rubbing the front side of the arm during compression while turning? that was my main reason for going with the old rc10 knuckles/castor blocks with the wide gt front axles instead of of going with the b4 pieces. plus, i wanted to keep as many vintage parts on it as possible.

i really like your car though. that turned out great.

Thanks for the compliments, though, I think you're just looking at my breasts. Yes, the inside of the rim does rub on the front side of the arm during compression. That's at the max steering angle. I think it should be ok if I dial out a little steering with the dual rate adjustment.

The other thing I was thinking of using are the inline B4 axles. This should provide the necessary clearance. Maybe I'll order some to see if my hypothesis holds. (had to throw in a $3 word there)

I wanted to use newer B4 parts for the consumables. Slipper pads, spurs and wheels/tires are much easier to find for the B4 than the previous RC10 versions.

RichieRich wrote:The other thing I was thinking of using are the inline B4 axles. This should provide the necessary clearance.

ya... that should work.

thanks for the responses guys.should be starting my build soon and will get some pics posted

The B4 rear carrier works in conjunction with the B44 Rear CVD bone.



MOmo

Got my Fibre-Lyte stuff yesterday, looks nice.