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Lonestar wrote:

bngiles wrote:If you plan on running it with newer motors/esc's, drill it, run the stealth and dont look back. Shelf queen: wet sand the chassis and leave the 6 gear in it.


My gut says you plan on running it.....

interesting - wet sanding the chassis? Won't it look dull after that? wetsanding flattens but take the mirror finish away... or do you clearcoat it again after that???

Paul

Go back over it with some 3m perfect it or any good automotive polishing compound. It will make it shinier than when new. No need for clear coat. Start with 400grit then go to 600, then 800. Works great.

Don't drill it Anthony! LOL!

It will never be original again. I would sand and polish it like bngiles said.

If you must use it as a runner, the Stealth is the best tranny.

ps: You know who I am.

hi rod, thanks

i take your opinion very seriously, you just made me think about changing my mind again

what to do lol

i got more than enough opinions too

by the way i cant wait to swap my front arms on my goldpan to the originals... you'll have those nice white graphite arms soon enough

I have seen that chassis and I think it can be made to look near mint. It is a first gen graphite car.

I would get a used chassis that has been counter sunk (molested) and not worth much $, for your Stealth conversion. Just my 2 cents!

So you want original RC10 front arms right? Looking forward to the trade.

ps: I will look for the wiper as well.

I think I will spare my graphite chassis and not drill it

I got this idea in my head that I am going to get an old goldpan chassis, not in good condition, to install the stealth into. Then strip the car of all suspension parts and arms, and get the longest arms that Associated makes and upgrade the suspension to match... and somehow mount them to the chassis. Get B4 wheels too, also possibly get a 12T motor, I don't quite know

but somehow make a monster RC10 that will go fast and handle well

maybe i should start a thread on the monster RC10 topic, I'm sure there is already one or two around

the only thing left for my project graphite is a good set of rear tires..i got losi tires on it now, but i'd like associated

thanks

bngiles wrote:

Lonestar wrote:

bngiles wrote:If you plan on running it with newer motors/esc's, drill it, run the stealth and dont look back. Shelf queen: wet sand the chassis and leave the 6 gear in it.


My gut says you plan on running it.....

interesting - wet sanding the chassis? Won't it look dull after that? wetsanding flattens but take the mirror finish away... or do you clearcoat it again after that???

Paul

Go back over it with some 3m perfect it or any good automotive polishing compound. It will make it shinier than when new. No need for clear coat. Start with 400grit then go to 600, then 800. Works great.

hi there

sorry for the late comments and thanks - so you wetsand down to 800 grit, and then go polishing compound? interesting. I need to find an old CWF to try my hands at that technique... I have two RC10G, one of them was "recoated" using some resin of some kind and it sure looks rough as heck and needs TLC to give it its natural flatness back.

Thanks!
Paul

Yup. works like a champ. You can even bring back Losi chassis to a point. It wont look like the satin losi "new" look, but it will certainly look much better. Try it, you'll be surprised how easy it really is.

Its an RC car drill it run the crap out! of it Dont be scared!! If you want a model buy a model, you bought a RC Race car at that. it was born to be run!! if it bothers you buy another chassis thats already been beat on, theirs a 100's on this fourm and the Bay?

bearrickster wrote:Its an RC car drill it run the crap out! of it Dont be scared!! If you want a model buy a model, you bought a RC Race car at that. it was born to be run!! if it bothers you buy another chassis thats already been beat on, theirs a 100's on this fourm and the Bay?

I know, and that's what I did. I friend of mine gave me a new (i know, i know, i don't care b/c i already have a goldpan in good condition) RC10T chassis that I will drill using my template and mount the stealth into. I will eventually try and get all aluminum arms for it, doesn't matter which ones, as long as they give it a wide wheel base and are made for Associated buggies/trucks. I'll try to get the best suited shocks and towers to match. I'm just looking for durable and fast, aka fun to beat on

vintage AE wrote:I will eventually try and get all aluminum arms for it, doesn't matter which ones, as long as they give it a wide wheel base and are made for Associated buggies/trucks.

Here's a source for aluminum arms, but you may find those a bit pricey for a runner/basher.

http://www.rdent.com/sprint/sprintparts.html

Stock AE suspension parts work great and are readily available. RPM still makes a great set of arms for the RC10 buggy as well and they are nearly indestructible.

aeiou wrote:

vintage AE wrote:I will eventually try and get all aluminum arms for it, doesn't matter which ones, as long as they give it a wide wheel base and are made for Associated buggies/trucks.

Here's a source for aluminum arms, but you may find those a bit pricey for a runner/basher.

http://www.rdent.com/sprint/sprintparts.html

Stock AE suspension parts work great and are readily available. RPM still makes a great set of arms for the RC10 buggy as well and they are nearly indestructible.

that's is a good site, thanks for the info. i'll keep it in mind. i'm open to anything right now.

Just an opinion and hope to not get splatted by the forces but I'd forget about the aluminum parts if its something you want to really run hard. Aluminum looks great but it makes for an expensive 'whoops' when you hit something wrong. Aluminum bends and doesn't come back like RPM does. Also makes your next in line part the weak point which isn't always the easiest part to find depending on what you bash with. Got an SRT that has been updated with aluminum and rpm making it pretty durable but the first in line of parts that will take the punishment is the rear bulkhead and that isn't the easiest part to find. Keep us informed on your project though...always good to see others ideas.
Todd

klavy69 wrote:Just an opinion and hope to not get splatted by the forces but I'd forget about the aluminum parts if its something you want to really run hard. Aluminum looks great but it makes for an expensive 'whoops' when you hit something wrong. Aluminum bends and doesn't come back like RPM does. Also makes your next in line part the weak point which isn't always the easiest part to find depending on what you bash with. Got an SRT that has been updated with aluminum and rpm making it pretty durable but the first in line of parts that will take the punishment is the rear bulkhead and that isn't the easiest part to find. Keep us informed on your project though...always good to see others ideas.
Todd

thanks todd,

rpm is probably the way to go, that way it's cheaper and just as durable. An expensive basher doesn't really make sense. And you make a good point about finding parts, it's not like i'm dealing with a modern day basher.

I'll start a new thread once I get started on the project. I'm getting a good start on ideas though