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It's much easier to quickly clean water-based paints from airbrushes.

Ordered a Createx Pearlized paint set, should be here tomorrow:


Also got the surface adhesion promoter, for stronger Lexan bond.


And gloss clear for hard shell, or 3d printed paint jobs.


Coarse Aluminum.


Alclad II lacquer for the Chrome.


Hoping to get some good results on this project.

Airbrushed a failed-print hood, to test Createx Pearlized Green.




Need to figure out how to darken the green a bit more. The pearl doesn't seem to show up well on this not exactly smooth surface.

I need to find some darker metallic paints.

Going to try SpazStix Emerald Green Metallic.
https://spazstix.com/products/szx00310-emerald-green-metallic



Will get Clover Green too - this has that nasty 70's fiberglass boat vibe to it. Love it.
https://spazstix.com/products/szx00320-clover-green-metallic-airbrush

The Vallejo chrome is decent. This print was really rough to begin with. Will try a smoother piece to see if a reflection is present in the paint.


Wasn't intentionally trying to make a pumpkin colored Manx, but there it is.


The surface of the 3d prints is layered with textures, so the Pearl effect is lost. But it does make for a brushed anodized look, in the right light. More to come, have a bunch of different shades of green on the way, the darker metallic greens are next, even if I have to learn to mix the custom color I want.

You're going to a lot of effort with this build...if the textured surface wasn't ideal, why not do some wet-sanding to smooth the surfaces pre-paint? Not sure how hard the plastic is, but you could start with 600-grit, then 800 and 1000 grit. That would be a much smoother surface and the plastic should wet-sand quite quickly. It'll look even better if you clear-coat it afterward.

Coelacanth wrote: ↑Wed Oct 30, 2024 12:52 pm You're going to a lot of effort with this build...if the textured surface wasn't ideal, why not do some wet-sanding to smooth the surfaces pre-paint? Not sure how hard the plastic is, but you could start with 600-grit, then 800 and 1000 grit. That would be a much smoother surface and the plastic should wet-sand quite quickly. It'll look even better if you clear-coat it afterward.

Could certainly do that at some point. These 3d parts being painted are failed-prints, or that were incomplete prints, they make for excellent test subjects. That was the first time I've painted PLA, or any plastic with an airbrush, and Peralized paints.

I'll prepare the surface on another part and test that shortly. But leaving the layer lines in and painting them, does give a brushed aluminum effect that is unique, and sometimes that ends up being of value.

Printing the parts really isn't much effort, but painting them can be, and prepping them definitely is a lot of effort.

Got some Createx Fastback Green today, it's more teal apparently. Manufacturers video:


The darker greens are on the way.