RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Fri May 10, 2024 4:52 am Exactly what I was thinking... wow, wouldn't have guessed A&L.

That'd look cool with box art paint... or Jammin Jay style like Scr8p's replica...



...but with Associated decals, of course

Yep, hard to go wrong with the JJ style paint.
BTW, thank you for steering me to some reasonably priced dogbones; they are scheduled to arrive this Saturday.
Also, the body shell is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.
Looks like this project is back on track.

So I'm assembling the rear suspension using SC10 dogbones as placeholders until my order arrives. I noticed the bone collides with the arm severely limiting droop (maybe 2 or 3 degrees angle on the arm). This is with a single o-ring spacer in the axle drive cup.
If the o-ring was moved to the transmission drive cup (positioning the bone deeper in the axle) maybe droop would increase but then up-travel will be reduced because the bone will collide with the ID of the axle cup. Is this normal? I'm tempted to clearance the arm to provide more droop but I really don't think this should be necessary. Any advice?

FYI those aren't RC10T rear arms. They're one of the later trucks. These are T1.

Really common issue bitd. They should have just relieved both sizes of the arms

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Fri May 17, 2024 10:09 pm FYI those aren't RC10T rear arms. They're one of the later trucks. These are T1.

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I've learned that late RC10T trucks used RC10T2 suspension parts. The truck I have uses first gen Stealth, chassis tub, etc., and was sold as an RC10T.
Anyway, unlike early T's, these arms will fit either side and there isn't the recess (or notch) that provides additional clearance for the bone. Probably because both top and bottom would require the recess (to make the arm fit either side) and maybe the arm is too thin to accommodate both recesses.
I hope that makes sense.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Fri May 17, 2024 10:22 pm Really common issue bitd. They should have just relieved both sizes of the arms

Thanks Jeff.

I can see where the bone has been rubbing so I think I will slightly notch the arm to gain a bit more clearance.

XLR8 wrote: Anyway, unlike early T's, these arms will fit either side and there isn't the recess (or notch) that provides additional clearance for the bone. Probably because both top and bottom would require the recess (to make the arm fit either side) and maybe the arm is too thin to accommodate both recesses.
I hope that makes sense.

You did understand the pic I showed right? The arms are most definitely left and right specific. They just didn't mark them since the gt would have been opposite. They look symmetrical but are not.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 2:01 am

XLR8 wrote: Anyway, unlike early T's, these arms will fit either side and there isn't the recess (or notch) that provides additional clearance for the bone. Probably because both top and bottom would require the recess (to make the arm fit either side) and maybe the arm is too thin to accommodate both recesses.
I hope that makes sense.

You did understand the pic I showed right? The arms are most definitely left and right specific. They just didn't mark them since the gt would have been opposite. They look symmetrical but are not.

After reading your previous post, I went back and had a closer look. My truck has two left arms.
I could try to find a right arm but I can't be bothered. I'll just make a shallow notch so both sides have the same droop.
This truck will never be a pristine, time capsule museum piece anyway. It's had a rough life.
Thanks again, Jeff.

I've just downloaded the RC10T2 manual and found this note on page 25:


This note doesn't appear in the original T manual that would have been included with this truck.
Unlike the T2 arms included with this truck, the original T rear arms were very different and it's easy to identify left vs. right.

I wonder how many of these late T kits were assembled incorrectly and handled poorly due to virtually no droop in the rear suspension.
This could have been avoided if AE had designed the T2 arm symmetrical about the mold's parting line. It would have reduced their tooling cost as well since both arms could be made from a single mold cavity.

The late 10T kits came with about 600 supplement sheets and that would have been one of them, but they are very easily lost track of. I don't even have that sheet in my stack

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 2:45 am After reading your previous post, I went back and had a closer look. My truck has two left arms.
I could try to find a right arm but I can't be bothered. I'll just make a shallow notch so both sides have the same droop.

I probably have an extra right arm, if that's the same as the GT or the T2. PM me a shipping address.

@XLR8, I have a pile of leftover RC10 GT parts here, that are nearly NOS, most were stock equipment that got upgraded and hardly used.

If the 10T and GT parts are compatible, I have at least (2) pair of rear arms, an RPM set in the bag still too, let me know if you need anything.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 12:30 pm

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 2:45 am After reading your previous post, I went back and had a closer look. My truck has two left arms.
I could try to find a right arm but I can't be bothered. I'll just make a shallow notch so both sides have the same droop.

I probably have an extra right arm, if that's the same as the GT or the T2. PM me a shipping address.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 12:44 pm @XLR8, I have a pile of leftover RC10 GT parts here, that are nearly NOS, most were stock equipment that got upgraded and hardly used.

If the 10T and GT parts are compatible, I have at least (2) pair of rear arms, an RPM set in the bag still too, let me know if you need anything.

Thank you both so much!!
Another extremely kind and generous member here (GoMachV) is helping me out.
Thanks for the offer, I hope to return the favor one day soon.

I have the front suspension assembled per the manual and I'm seeing some bump-steer - did not expect that. It's not extreme but it's there.
This is my first T build. Maybe there's an old racer's trick to shim the ballstuds or steering rack to reduce or remove it? ...or do we live with it?

Shouldn't see much, but different caster blocks do vary the amount or need for washers under the ball studs. As a rule of thumb, try to get the steering rods parallel with the suspension arms and you should see little to no bump steer