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I wanted to share my results after trying a couple of methods for removing rust from some turnbuckles.

A few I dunked in vinegar overnight along with some ball ends.
Another few I turned in a drill while scrubbing them with a fine wire brush.

Both methods worked and both have stripped the parts from their blackend finish, as well as the rust.

The brushed parts resulted in a shiny finish, while the ones that went into vinegar have a dull grey finish.

The vinegar approach was less effort.

The vinegar, additionally, seems to have stained some of the parts a shade of brown. I’m not sure why it’s been selective though

Hi All.

Would anyone recommend against using the silicone grease shown in the pics bellow, in place of Associated #6636, in the six gear transmission spur gear ball bearings?

Another issue I’m having is the ball bearings are falling through the holes in the spur gear, just barely. Would this bring any trouble?

6636 for the 6 gear was a silicone grease (the newer stealth grease is not silicone). I suspect you would be just fine using that.

As far as the balls go, they usually snap into the stock gear but some aftermarket gears are a straight hole making them fall through. It won’t hurt anything so long as the bearings are the correct diameter. The 6 gear spur will naturally have a lot of movement. This is normal.

Thanks. Good news then.
The spur gears I have both look original, but they are probably worn. The teeth are quite pitted and difficult to clean completely.

I'm getting quite a bit of axial play in the differential shaft (six gear). This is giving me some concern because, if the shaft is pushed all the way in, the inner diff drive ring contacts one of the screws coming through the transmission casing. See pic below.

Anyone had this experience? I could add a washer to set the screw back, but I wonder if the shaft should have this much play.

Thanks for any help.

There is a lot of play on the top shaft, you can shim it. But those screws look like they are sticking out pretty far. They should be barely proud of the motor plate. I'd add a washer behind the screw heads.

Thanks for the prompt reply.

I wonder why the screws are protruding so much. They’re the right length (1”).

Hi Bakauata

I have used a solution that others may not use.
End play is minimal and the shaft has a little more support.

Chuck

Thanks. If I had any bearings to spare I’d give it a try. As it is, the idler gears in this one are on bushings, as will the wheel axels.

Christian

Hi all.

I’m moving on to the power and electronics on this car, and have been reading up un brushed motor cleaning and restoring.

This car is for my 7yo, so I’m fitting it with a used Trinity Green Machine 2. I believe it’s the slowest used motor I have.

So far I have run in a glass of water for a short while at around 5 volts, and then rinsed with alcohol. I’ve cleaned the brushes and their slots also with alcohol and cotton swab. I haven’t touched the commutator yet. I have a comm stick which I’ll probably use on it.

My question is in regards to the brushes, which look quite pitted, or contaminated. Not really sure.
Should I try to sand, or clean the contact surface other than using an eraser on it?
I can’t find much information online on the subject.

nah, don't worry too much about the brushes. You aren't trying to eek out every last ounce of power out of the motor and the brushes will wear in no problem.

as for doing the water trick and then rinsing in alcohol, make sure you apply some light oil to the bushings for the motor shaft. that by far is the most critical to smooth performance.

Yeah, I just want it to run, not fly. Thanks. Oiling the bushings next.