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Now back to the build!
Nomad!! This looks soo good. Such a clean look with the black and aluminum and that little extra.

@sandkil Greetings my friend! Thank you for the the visit to the build. I don't have much to report this morning... maybe later in the day

I got to thinking about the linkage/turnbuckles last night. I'll be using Lunsford (LNS1988) 4-40 RETRO RC10 WORLDS turnbuckles with RPM ball cups. I dare guess that Lunsford figured the lengths to be right with Associated stock cups. The RPM's are longer so I have to adjust by chopping 3mm off of the ends. Since my cups are dyed from different colors of cups (what ever I could get cheap) they have to go back in the black bath again.
I have packages from AMain and Associated due today, more stuff for the build!

Let's talk about the rear shocks for awhile. This will be Part I, what I have learned about the trailing arm to shock interface.

The trailing arm shock mount point uses a 3mm x 14mm button head screw (as supplied by Factory Works). Your shock rod end pivot (ASC6468) has a hole that is drilled for a 4-40 screw to pass thru. Kinda presents a bit of a problem to solve. You can drill/file out the steel bushing so the 3mm screw will pass. It's a bit of work, and you have two of them to do!
Your very likely to find that the metal pivot does not move freely in the nylon shock rod end. I'd go ahead and polish it to a nice bright shine right from the start.
The rod end (ASC6471) is going to rub on the CVA's (if you use them, dogbones, no worry). This means you'll have to do some cutting/remove material from the bottom most part. This was a time consuming task for me, no fun. I did a bit of looking around and found (see above pic) that ASC7217 shock rod ends are about perfect. This would be the rod end on the left.

This pretty much covers Part I. Part II will be all about the shock and it's upper mounting point.

Rere and more modern sold lower pivot balls have this problem with fitment. Originals from back in the day both fit the 3mm screw well and fit the shock end properly without binding. The old school 6471 shock ends are the same as those 7217 in your pic. They really screwed things up on the rere stuff. OUR parts haven’t changed since 1988

I was going to say I thought they even fit on an 1/8" shaft, but if the newer parts are machined differently, then yeah, that will be a problem. That's unfortunate.

True man, oh so true

Additionally, you could use shock rod ends from the B6.

Updated info on the shock rod ends...

I measured across the center of three different rod ends and found a better option.

ASC6471: 0.421"

ASC7217: 0.374"

ASC91721: 0.368"

ASC91721 shock eyelets are from the B6, (12mm big bore). You can get 4ea long and short eyelets with that part number. This will be what I'm going to use.

It will be interesting to see how those work out.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Apr 12, 2018 11:44 am It will be interesting to see how those work out.

I'll get to that shortly Jeff. Shock springs are at my local USPS sort facility, should arrive tomorrow.

Meantime, I get onto the CVA's again. I have the Associated 1/4" CVA's to match up with JC Racing black spoke wheels. The CVA kit will cause you to scratch you head a bit. It comes with shims and roll pin for the 3/16" CVA's! Come on Associated, get your act together. So, get you some 1/4" shims and a pack of ASC6375 roll pins and you'll be good to go.

I use the set screw (grub screw) with a small dab of blue gel type loctite. I don't like the metal retaining rings, a small slice (2mm or so) of shrink tube will do the job... a bit less rotating mass, right!

Another magnificent parts packaging cock-up brought to you by our friends at Team Associated.
So, those new JC wheels are meant to fit 1/4" axles? Hmmm, I'd always assumed 1/4" wheels were obsolete - everything had gone 12mm hex or 3/16" pin. Using shrink tube in place of the metal ring is a really neat trick.

These are the wheels. http://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/rc10
As you can see from my pic of the back side of a rear wheel, the slot is for the larger roll pin of the 1/4" CVA's. Your also going to need 2 pair of 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/8" flanged bearings for the front wheels. I picked up the tip to use shrink wrap from @GoMachV

Thanks for the link, nomad. I've not been to their site; they certainly do have a nice selection of wheels for vintage cars.
Did you shop for wheels to fit the 1/4" axles or did you select the axles to fit these particular wheels? I recall that those 1/4" flanged bearings are kinda pricey (much more than 3/16" bearings).
Either way, your car should look great with those wheels.

@@XLR8

It was a hard choice. My wallet was telling me, "use what you got" since I had a set of 2.2 Worlds wheels and 3/16" CVA's in the stash. I wanted to use black spoke wheels, hence the need for 1/4" CVA's.

You could have got the black spoke JC wheels for the b2/b3 and used your 3/16 cvd's.

http://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=18&product_id=259