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Very interesting! Waiting for your test results!

They do look incredible.

Yeah, with 3d printing anything with any method and going for super-tight tolerances... always takes a few iterations.

In some of our prototyping I've seen people build in the extra and then "machine" it down via lathe, sanding etc to get the exact fit and sometimes it's for the surface finish too. It also allows them to handle items that have slight defects and usually still be serviceable parts.

its very likely looking at the close up images that you will want to post-process(machine) the bearing surfaces. Not sure how well it will machine.

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:14 am They do look incredible.

Yeah, with 3d printing anything with any method and going for super-tight tolerances... always takes a few iterations.

In some of our prototyping I've seen people build in the extra and then "machine" it down via lathe, sanding etc to get the exact fit and sometimes it's for the surface finish too. It also allows them to handle items that have slight defects and usually still be serviceable parts.

Yup, I do this all the time at work... a little sanding here, a little filing there, maybe reaming a hole or two... it doesn't usually take much work to get the printed parts to fit really nice. And often times they don't need anything.

jwscab wrote: ↑Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:23 am its very likely looking at the close up images that you will want to post-process(machine) the bearing surfaces. Not sure how well it will machine.

Yes, i may need to. Unfortunately, that will drive up the price. Right now they are similar to AE ones in price, but if I start putting labor into them I'll have to jack the price up. And in the end, they will still be printed parts that most likely will not have the same durability as "real" ones.

But on the other hand, if AE doesn't start making them again... that's the whole point of this little undertaking, I want to make sure people can keep building, running, and maintaining RC10 for years to come.

agreed. If the machining needs to happen, might be better off modifying the b4 series before they are out of production too.

mk-Zero, thank you for your efforts. I had no idea that these outdrives were a shortage item. I purchased a few complete (used) Stealth trannys for backups.

I've got almost all the bits in triplicate (or better) to rebuild/update a stealth... EXCEPT them damn outdrives!

jwscab wrote: ↑Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:11 pm agreed. If the machining needs to happen, might be better off modifying the b4 series before they are out of production too.

What do the b4 ones need done to them?

I just ordered a lathe, so I will eventually be able to fix the printed ones or I could modify the b4 ones

In the mean time I should be able to fix these printed ones on my mill. I already made some fixturing to hold them.

The OD needs to be reduced. Then the seat for the diff ring needs to be turned to match the 2.25" ring ID. Problem is that they are HARD and need rigid tooling. You lose that little lip on the OD but it doesn't really matter.

sounds fairly painful if the material is hard.

Yeah I did it with my flimsy Craftsman and carbide tooling. A rigid machine and diamond tooling should be pretty straightforward. It's hard but it's not that hard.

Good to know. Maybe I'll get a set and try it out once my lathe comes in. What worries me about the b4 ones is that AE shows low stock of one side... may be running out of those too in the near future...

How would that material be at printing gears?

I'm wondering if it'd be possible to do a gear diff that uses the outdrive cups from the SC10 or B6D gear diffs.

The accuracy isn't there for a gear, not even close.

For the gear diff, I've been playing with the idea of making an RC10 Stealth case that takes an SC10 gear diff. I don't know how much demand there is though...