RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

That's good to hear! I ordered the rest of the parts today! Got a combined $29 off everything from Amain. Still waiting on the decal set from MCI Racing as well..

Here is all what's coming-
RPM nylon blue 4-40 nuts
AE Blue aluminum counter sunk washers
AE 8-32 blue aluminum nuts
Avid triad "stock" clutch set (B4)
Avid aluminum standard top shaft (B4) - another one to replace the one I have that I cut to much off of (has slop on the bearing)
JC Centro wings
JC gold Dirt Webs rear tires
Kimbrough 201 saver
ProTek RC 4-40 x 1/4" Titanium Flat Head Hex Screw - chassis to motor plate w/ Blue counter sunk washers
ProTek RC 4-40 x 5/16" Titanium Flat Head Hex Screw - rear bearing carrier w/ blue counter sunk washers
ProTek RC 4-40 x 7/8" Titanium Cap Head Hex Screw - new longer upper shock screws
ProTek RC 8-32 x 1/2" Titanium Flat Head Hex Screw - arm mounts, bulk head
ProTek RC 8-32 x 1/4" Titanium Flat Head Hex Screw - chassis
ProTek RC 3x6mm Titanium Button Head Hex Screws - servo arm to servo
ProTek RC 3x8mm Titanium Cap Head Hex Screw - motor screws

Separate order -
Team Associated Aluminum #4 Washers (20)
Lunsford .215" Short Broached Titanium Ball Studs (2)
Lunsford .250" Medium Broached Titanium Ball Studs (2)
Lunsford Associated SC10 Titanium Ball Stud Kit (14) (someone bought the B4 buggy kit so had to get the SC10 2wd kit which is the same)

Ebay -
AE 9911 cvd bones from Power Hobby
Team Blue Groove RC10 Stealth body (has a B4 cockpit with RC10 sides, comes with a wing, and a under tray as well)

I like the shock towers, especially the front one. What brand are they?

orangemazda wrote:I like the shock towers, especially the front one. What brand are they?

RC Carbon works they're on eBay. They sell standard height and short/long towers.. I have the short rear, and long front to bolt on B4 shocks

HUGE update coming tonight! - It's a roller and got the new electronics today so it's going to run!

Well I got a lot done, got the CVD issue figured out, got the rest of the parts orders except the body, and not only got it to a roller, but got it running last night. refined it today a little. Had to switch to B4 rear wheels to meet ROAR rules.

Weighed it twice now - just did this morning and was 1,538 grams with 5 pieces of 1/4oz lead, and my Worlds body and interior.

Changed a few things this morning since the last update and last night -

Cut down the battery strap to fit the ESC behind the battery
Fully mounted/wired the electronics
Machined down a new aluminum top shaft
Modified the Worlds kit rear axles
Modified a pair of B4.1 CVD bones to work
Shaved down the gear cover by the upper link to clear the RPM rod end
Cut down 2 long titanium cap head screws for the gear cover
Used cut ends of bolts for new battery strap studs
Cut and mounted a wing
Hollow set screw in the pinion
Added spacers to the steering servo link ball stud (rack side) and flipped the servo end ball stud around to the other side of the arm

Waiting for the body, and still need to glue the tires which I'm not looking forward to..

I can't wait to hear how it does on the track! You might have to use a full size servo to bring the weight up. That, or maybe find some of those brass weights that mount in the grooves that are machined into the chassis.

joey_zrl wrote:I can't wait to hear how it does on the track! You might have to use a full size servo to bring the weight up. That, or maybe find some of those brass weights that mount in the grooves that are machined into the chassis.

I would be interest in something like those brass weights - I have around 8-10 of the AE 1/4oz adhesive backed lead weights that I plan to use unless something else comes up..

That last pic on the scale is with out the gear cover and wing, which brought the weight up to 1,458 grams or so.. I am planning to add a Team Blue Groove under tray, and a pretty dolled up body POSSIBLY an RC10 interior as well if the weight is needed..

I added 5 of the lead weights I have and it got up to 1,538 grams or so - so I'm thinking I'll only have to add 1-3 lead weights to be legal as I'd honestly like it as close to 1,500 grams as possible to keep an edge over everyone else

How is the inner ball stud to steering clearance? The RPM ball cups are thicker and may cause interference with the suspension compressed (inner camber link and inner steering linkage).

Overall, looks awesome, get it on the track and burn some rubber.

I like it nice job

JK Racing wrote:How is the inner ball stud to steering clearance? The RPM ball cups are thicker and may cause interference with the suspension compressed (inner camber link and inner steering linkage).

Overall, looks awesome, get it on the track and burn some rubber.

On full compression they do hit sadly.. I'm not sure how to avoid it either as I can't switch to a short turnbuckle due to the big bore shocks covering the other mounting holes, I am giving thought to drilling a hole directly above the one they are in to move the camber link up

Thanks guys! Glued one side of the tires tonight, and will probably glue the other side around 10 to let them dry over night, and hopefully get it outside to break it in tomorrow..

Zac_F71 wrote:I am giving thought to drilling a hole directly above the one they are in to move the camber link up

I did that on my current car. 2nd idea is use short neck ball studs .30 I think they are from the TC3, in both positions, keep the RPM on the tower, but go back to stock on the center link. You may still need to massage the RPM ones a bit. I did that on a different build for a fellow racer & another older racer I ran for quite a while.

I looked just now and there is enough room to move the inner camber ball stud up on the tower, I will likely go that route if the steering hitting becomes a problem at full droop.. I'm going to take it out and break it in on my road here today since it's dry out.

Small update -
Took a AE blue anodized 4-40 nyloc nut, and drilled and tapped it for 5-40 threads - to replace the steel nut it had on the end of the slipper clutch
Glued the tires up last night
Added a 3mm aluminum spacer and a 7/8" long titanium bolt to the bottom of the rear shocks to align them better
Added nitro fuel line to the bottoms of all the shocks to act as travel limiters
Got a final weigh in - it's heavyish!

So I think the new body with a decent paint job, personal transponder will do the trick to get it above weight, and only have to add weight for tuning purposes!

Weight was taken with a lighter B4.1 body, was 1,496 grams, and 2 1/4oz adhesive backed lead weights got it up to 1,508 grams! So will likely not add an interior ahaha

Test drive was a failure. I think the Orange RX receiver is junk, I found out the hard way that as soon as you get more 3ft from the buggy the radio no longer works.. YIKES almost lost my fresh electronics to a pond! SO so much for a transponder.. going to buy a new Spectrum receiver and a large suit case to make a travel box out of!

That is sad to hear. I have a handful of those OrangeRX and love em all. No issues.

Either way, there are bound to be bad ones out there. Grab an OG Spektrum and rock that thing.