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Anything nylon is fine, I probably wouldn't boil the hard white plastic pieces like steering bellcranks though.

Hundreds of thousands of parts were boiled, it was part of the dying process to make parts red, yellow, blue, pink etc with fabric dye.

I think the whole boiling of plastic parts to prevent them from breaking as easily stemmed from 1/8 racing. I wouldn't boil anything that didn't need to be, only to clean peroxided parts or to dye some parts some other color.

Nice one!
So fresh and clean

Regarding Novak periodically correct i find this site helpful.
http://web.archive.org/web/20110515155618/http://teamnovak.com/timeline/timeline_1/index.html

sandkil wrote:Nice one!
So fresh and clean

Regarding Novak periodically correct i find this site helpful.
http://web.archive.org/web/20110515155618/http://teamnovak.com/timeline/timeline_1/index.html

Great link! So cool to look back at the timeline of the Novak products. Thanks for posting.

Truck parts continue to soak. Not much to update until they are done.

The white parts continue to soak.

I noticed something the other day as I studied the original RC10T box - The numbers on the truck on the box have red, offset highlights. I had never noticed this before. I took my new, original sticker kit to a local print and sign company. He scanned the number plate and numbers, and then added this highlight. I just picked them up, and I think they look great. Very clean, and they match the originals exactly, but with the added red highlight. The highlight in the center of the 0 is not a perfect match, but that is a pretty minute detail. While I was at it, I had him make me some integrated number plates with the red highlighted '10' already incorporated. I also had him make me a bunch of red highlighted single numbers. I figure they will be good to have for other projects, or if others want to get this detail correct on their RC10T build.

It end cost of my number printing project was pretty expensive, but I am trying not to think about that now. Let me know what you think.

The colors are off in the first picture because the original stickers are behind a plastic bag, and the flash made it look odd.

Good eye, never noticed the red on the number plate.

lavigna wrote:The soak has begun!

The hardest part will be keeping my 4 year old daughter from taking parts or turning it over, lol.

Whitening the parts has delayed my build, but I think it will be worth it to have a real crisp, clean looking end result. Thanks again for all the help guys!

WOW, those parts look great, I'm gonna have to give this a go on some of my stuff.

Vintageguy - I finally got me a can of SC1, and it is some amazing stuff. I wish I had known about it years ago. I am still soaking the whites, but will be using it on them once finished. I have already used it to polish some other things, and it works great!

I scored a Novak 410 MXc from eBay. There was only one fuzzy picture of it on the ad, so I was unsure of the condition. I was very happy when I received it. It looks to have very little use. The main issue was it had 30 year old scotch tape on the front, and it did not want to come off. It took me a few hours os very carefully polishing and peeling to remove it without damaging anything. Once everything else was cleaned and put together, it could literally pass for new (except the wire connections which will be changed later). I am very happy with it, and it is an exact match to the unit in the instruction manual.

I am still looking for a Novak NER-3FM receiver and Airtronics 94732 servo. If anyone is selling one of these, please let me know.

On the number plate I just used a red sharpie when I had my 10T. Looked the part and was very easy to do

Update: I removed the parts from the soak, and they sure whitened up. I boiled them in water as recommended, and let them soak in SC1, to help prevent the yellowing from coming back too quickly. I know I over whitened them, but since they will eventually yellow again, I figured this would be best. They look whiter in the pictures than they do in person.

Assembling the truck was a pleasure. The kit had some incorrect pieces of hardware, but luckily I had some original spares that filled in well. A few of the hinges came without the chrome coating, but that is no big deal.

For this build, I want to emulate the instruction manual truck pretty closely. I have not yet built the tie rods, because I am going to have them plated to match the ones in the manual. From the manual pictures, it looks like they are a dull silver plating. If anyone has any suggestions on what type of plating this is, or where to send them, that would be great.

I really took my time on the build, and tried to get every part exactly right.

I am still looking for a Novak NER 3FM receiver, airtronics 94732 servo, and period Reedy motor. I am also still undecided on the body paint, and who to send it to. Hope you enjoy the progress pictures.

Sitting without tie rods.

Looks nice, but almost too white, instead of the factory off-white color.

yellowdatsun wrote:Looks nice, but almost too white, instead of the factory off-white color.

I agree. But they will yellow again, and hopefully stay at the factory cream color. Also, they do look more white in the photos than in person.

Looking good, great clean, thorough restoration!

sandkil wrote:Nice one!
So fresh and clean

Regarding Novak periodically correct i find this site helpful.
http://web.archive.org/web/20110515155618/http://teamnovak.com/timeline/timeline_1/index.html

hurray, they have had the section under construction for like a year plus now. I like the fact they also put the discontinued time frame, so you know the era of years it will work with for period correct.

Nice find, and great eye on the number stickers, but you should have left the nylon parts original, as the off white is correct, and if all parts have a universal cream colour, it has a more natural feel to the build...... but it may just be a small few who find it looks better un-whitened,.. still looks good though.