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Looking good! I keep forgetting to look for one of those Sharpies when I'm at a place that might have them. (You know, when you stand up and go in the other room to grab something and then forget what it is you went in there to get?) Thanks for reminding me again.

Haha, I know what you mean about getting the shakes, I'm the same with things like that. Do you find it any easier with they tyre on or off the wheel? I've ordered some of those pens myself, looks like they work pretty well despite your shaking.


Keith

markbt73 wrote:Looking good! I keep forgetting to look for one of those Sharpies when I'm at a place that might have them. (You know, when you stand up and go in the other room to grab something and then forget what it is you went in there to get?) Thanks for reminding me again.

The sharpie I used is the oil based paint pen. extra fine tip. It fits isnide the raised letters really nicely. The only problem is the pen bleeds a lot. So take it slow and make a couple coats to get it dark otherwise it will still be dark in the center. The paint flows to the edges.

keithrc wrote:Haha, I know what you mean about getting the shakes, I'm the same with things like that. Do you find it any easier with they tyre on or off the wheel? I've ordered some of those pens myself, looks like they work pretty well despite your shaking.


Keith

Yes they do work well. I didn't notice any difference with it on off of the wheel. It does bleed a lot so don't push down on it. It will go all over and it doesn't come off easily.

It always nice with white letters

Installed radio. It works!

https://vid.me/ecKf

Hcp22 wrote:It always nice with white letters

I agree.

Beautiful!

How did you polish the aluminium parts?
I am in a similar situation myself...

Wictorsson wrote:Beautiful!

How did you polish the aluminium parts?

You can get a nice satin-aluminum finish by wet-sanding all the aluminum parts with 400-grit sandpaper. Of course, don't do this on anodized parts like the gold or red shocks, only on the bare aluminum parts.

If you want a nice, glossy finish, that takes considerably more effort, following up the 400-grit wet-sanding with 600, 800, 1000 and 1500-grit. If you want best results, don't skip any steps. After all the parts are polished, you could apply a bit of automotive wax to give a bit of protection to the raw polished aluminum.

I also do exactly what Coelacanth said but also go up to 2000 grit paper as a final step and then buff on a buffing wheel with metal polish

Cast parts don't always turn out quite as well or maintain their shine as long but you still get very shiny results

Thanks for the tips on the wet sanding.
I think I will go for the satin finish on mine.

harbor freight sells scotch brite wheels for your drill. I use these on aluminum to give it the satin brushed polish similar to kyosho factory look.

Coelacanth wrote:

Wictorsson wrote:Beautiful!

How did you polish the aluminium parts?

You can get a nice satin-aluminum finish by wet-sanding all the aluminum parts with 400-grit sandpaper. Of course, don't do this on anodized parts like the gold or red shocks, only on the bare aluminum parts.

If you want a nice, glossy finish, that takes considerably more effort, following up the 400-grit wet-sanding with 600, 800, 1000 and 1500-grit. If you want best results, don't skip any steps. After all the parts are polished, you could apply a bit of automotive wax to give a bit of protection to the raw polished aluminum.

I did sand them progressively with finer grit sandpaper as I went along but ultimately the final polishing was done with some mag & aluminum polish from mothers. It really makes the parts shine. Its amazing stuff.


It does take a while but the end result is fantastic!

-Bill

After much waiting, my paint finally arrived!



More to come. Stay tuned!