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9-3/4" sounds good, please let us know when they are available.

I think this is the link, not for sale yet but keep an eye on it....

https://www.shapeways.com/model/2836461/rc10-wide-front-arm-pair.html?li=user-profile&materialId=109

Yup that'll be it. I'll open it up tonight. I chose the name Rebellion RC. It fits me!

Cool, thanks

They are there.

So I may have missed it - but this will allow me to have a B4 style front end width while retaining the stock RC10 buggy front end? Obviously would need longer turnbuckles but everything else would be the same?

What are you going to do in the back? I'm running the Dynotech rear arms currently with B4 CVD's

You retain everything about your RC10 except the arms. That means no wide axles. Just use the new arms and B4 wheels. The turnbuckles will need to get longer. I haven't gotten around to the rear arms yet but the goal with them is that you'll use B4 rear hubs, cvd's, and wheels.

Could use RC10 worlds or even B3 rear hubs with B4 cvds and wheels to give you even more length on the rear arms.

I want the arms as close to equal length as possible which would be more consistent with current rc design. The reality is that with a front kick, a longer front arm than rear would be preferable so that roll center would change equally front to rear with wheel travel as referenced perpendicular to the ground.

Ordered. They'll be going on my B1M project.

any option for color. would like to order black ones. for my all black parts graphite build over using stock black ones. (nothing dyed on my cars)

Fred mentioned somewhere that when you get black from them it is just dyed and since they aren't polished it doesn't look great

I didn't see any color options, just polished white. I'll be giving mine the tea (or is it coffee) treatment to get then to match the AE white parts.

I'll gladly put color options up but only white is available polished which has a much smoother look. Their colored pieces are white inside anyways so either way you'll have a dyed part but only the white option will have a nicer finish.

Hopefully you read the instructions in the comments about the part. Due to wall thicknesses I had to model the shock mount holes small. They'll need to be drilled larger. Do not just force screws into them! The hinge pin holes are also slightly undersized. A 1/8" bit spun by hand works well for them.

Thanks. I'm very familiar with 3D printed parts and reaming holes in them, i make extensive use of them at work (we have a Viper, a Connex, and a DMLS machine).