Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
- Asso_man!
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
Looks like a good candidate for a nice resto. Sounds like the seller came here before the truck was shipped and swapped the shocks with original ones after discovering that the ones installed were MIP, which might also explain the extra days it took before being shipped to you. Personally I would complain and ask for the pictured shocks from the auction. I say rip-off! And it's not because you paid a low price that this practice should be excused. Just my 0,2 eurocent... Good luck!
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- LosiXXkid
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
TBH, I was only interested in the RPM components, everything else is a bonus!Asso_man! wrote:Looks like a good candidate for a nice resto. Sounds like the seller came here before the truck was shipped and swapped the shocks with original ones after discovering that the ones installed were MIP, which might also explain the extra days it took before being shipped to you. Personally I would complain and ask for the pictured shocks from the auction. I say rip-off! And it's not because you paid a low price that this practice should be excused. Just my 0,2 eurocent... Good luck!
~I'm a lot older now than I was then and wish that I knew then what I know now~
- LosiXXkid
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
A little progress has been made with the Junior T.
So far it has been stripped down into all the component parts which have been cleaned and de-greased, with some re-building work carried carried out on the rear hubs, rear shock tower/ bulkhead and shocks. However, the previous owner didn't do a great job when it came to gluing the rear tyres to the wheels with super-glue so I set about researching how to remove them........intact!
It would appear from an evening or two spent searching and watching numerous video's on YouTube and visiting a few R/C forum threads that there are four main ways that are used to remove the tyres from the wheels. In no particular order they are....
baking in the oven
boiling in water
using either an acetone bath or just the vapours in a closed tub
cutting away the tyre with a scalpel/ hobby knife
I'm going to eliminate cutting the tyre off as this defeats the object of removing it intact.
The acetone bath certainly works but you need a decent amount of the stuff and a suitable container so this is looks like a good option. However, using just the vapours can take about a week but the results are again very good.
Boiling the wheel/ tyre in water appears to work quite well but does not guarantee the 100% intact removal of the tyre from the wheel - there's also a risk of scalding using this method so care is needed. The main downside of this method is that the boiling process doesn't remove the excess super-glue from the wheel or the tyre.
Then there's the baking option. The results are similar to the boiling process in that the tyre does not come away 100% intact....and again, care is needed in handling the hot wheel/ tyre when it's removed from the oven. And again, the main downside of this method is that the baking process doesn't remove the excess super-glue from the wheel or the tyre.
So, what to do....?
Well, it surprised me that no-one seems to mention super-glue de-bonder! At least I couldn't find anything......so I tried it.
This is the wheel/ tyre before. As you can see there is plenty of unnecessary overspill onto the tyre...
...and this is 'after' now looking like new.
And a couple more...
All that was required was to run the super-glue de-bonder into the bead and then leave it for 10-15 minutes. After which I started to gently work the tyre away from the wheel while at the same time adding a few more drops of the de-bonder. With a little patience I had the tyre off in about 30-40 minutes or so but I wasn't timing myself.....! Other traces of super-glue are wiped away from the tyre after leaving the de-bonder to do its job. If you're going to try this, it's worth pointing out that I used a small section of an old cotton hand towel in conjunction with the de-bonder. Basically don't use anything like bathroom tissue that breaks down easily otherwise you'll end up in a right mess!
The same treatment was given to the wheel itself after which both wheel and tyre were cleaned in hot soapy water with a small nail brush and then left to dry. In all it probably took about 1/3 of a small (20ml) bottle of de-bonder to do one wheel/ tyre so a very cheap solution as well!
I can also confirm that the de-bonder does not affect the tyre or the wheel - in this case nylon. However, the de-bonder does soften some other plastics like that of a PC keyboard or mouse so remember to keep your hands clean!
Side-by-side comparison....
...and a closer look.
This was my first attempt and I think the results speak for themselves. Bear in mind that the amount of time it takes will depend on the amount of super-glue originally used to secure the tyre to the wheel and the quality of the bond.
Personal tip: take your time and give the de-bonder time enough to work and I'm sure you'll be happy with the results.
So far it has been stripped down into all the component parts which have been cleaned and de-greased, with some re-building work carried carried out on the rear hubs, rear shock tower/ bulkhead and shocks. However, the previous owner didn't do a great job when it came to gluing the rear tyres to the wheels with super-glue so I set about researching how to remove them........intact!
It would appear from an evening or two spent searching and watching numerous video's on YouTube and visiting a few R/C forum threads that there are four main ways that are used to remove the tyres from the wheels. In no particular order they are....
baking in the oven
boiling in water
using either an acetone bath or just the vapours in a closed tub
cutting away the tyre with a scalpel/ hobby knife
I'm going to eliminate cutting the tyre off as this defeats the object of removing it intact.
The acetone bath certainly works but you need a decent amount of the stuff and a suitable container so this is looks like a good option. However, using just the vapours can take about a week but the results are again very good.
Boiling the wheel/ tyre in water appears to work quite well but does not guarantee the 100% intact removal of the tyre from the wheel - there's also a risk of scalding using this method so care is needed. The main downside of this method is that the boiling process doesn't remove the excess super-glue from the wheel or the tyre.
Then there's the baking option. The results are similar to the boiling process in that the tyre does not come away 100% intact....and again, care is needed in handling the hot wheel/ tyre when it's removed from the oven. And again, the main downside of this method is that the baking process doesn't remove the excess super-glue from the wheel or the tyre.
So, what to do....?
Well, it surprised me that no-one seems to mention super-glue de-bonder! At least I couldn't find anything......so I tried it.
This is the wheel/ tyre before. As you can see there is plenty of unnecessary overspill onto the tyre...
...and this is 'after' now looking like new.
And a couple more...
All that was required was to run the super-glue de-bonder into the bead and then leave it for 10-15 minutes. After which I started to gently work the tyre away from the wheel while at the same time adding a few more drops of the de-bonder. With a little patience I had the tyre off in about 30-40 minutes or so but I wasn't timing myself.....! Other traces of super-glue are wiped away from the tyre after leaving the de-bonder to do its job. If you're going to try this, it's worth pointing out that I used a small section of an old cotton hand towel in conjunction with the de-bonder. Basically don't use anything like bathroom tissue that breaks down easily otherwise you'll end up in a right mess!
The same treatment was given to the wheel itself after which both wheel and tyre were cleaned in hot soapy water with a small nail brush and then left to dry. In all it probably took about 1/3 of a small (20ml) bottle of de-bonder to do one wheel/ tyre so a very cheap solution as well!

I can also confirm that the de-bonder does not affect the tyre or the wheel - in this case nylon. However, the de-bonder does soften some other plastics like that of a PC keyboard or mouse so remember to keep your hands clean!
Side-by-side comparison....
...and a closer look.
This was my first attempt and I think the results speak for themselves. Bear in mind that the amount of time it takes will depend on the amount of super-glue originally used to secure the tyre to the wheel and the quality of the bond.
Personal tip: take your time and give the de-bonder time enough to work and I'm sure you'll be happy with the results.
~I'm a lot older now than I was then and wish that I knew then what I know now~
- Coelacanth
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
Great tip. If it saves me time and effort, and the cost is cheap, then I'm interested. I use the acetone fume method, leaving the parts to be unglued in the "fume bag" for 24 hours, and this works very well...but if there's a way to accomplish similar results in 15 minutes, I want to know about it. How about some pictures of this glue de-bonder you used?
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- LosiXXkid
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
Here you go, this is what I used....Coelacanth wrote:Great tip. If it saves me time and effort, and the cost is cheap, then I'm interested. I use the acetone fume method, leaving the parts to be unglued in the "fume bag" for 24 hours, and this works very well...but if there's a way to accomplish similar results in 15 minutes, I want to know about it. How about some pictures of this glue de-bonder you used?
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- Coelacanth
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
Nice, thanks...where did you buy it? I don't believe I ever saw that before, at least not here in Canada.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
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- SFC K
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
LosiXXkid wrote:Here you go, this is what I used....Coelacanth wrote:Great tip. If it saves me time and effort, and the cost is cheap, then I'm interested. I use the acetone fume method, leaving the parts to be unglued in the "fume bag" for 24 hours, and this works very well...but if there's a way to accomplish similar results in 15 minutes, I want to know about it. How about some pictures of this glue de-bonder you used?
That is a great tip! I will have to find some and try it out.
I am really impressed with the results from this technique.

Jeff
- LosiXXkid
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
IIRC, it came from a local hardware store....nothing special.Coelacanth wrote:Nice, thanks...where did you buy it? I don't believe I ever saw that before, at least not here in Canada.
However, you should be able to get ZAP brand in Canada.
http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/zap-z-7-debonder
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- jwscab
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
That stuff is simply acetone with some stuff to make it not evaporate as quickly. It works but its more expensive than straight acetone.
- LosiXXkid
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
The de-bonder that I have contains Heptane and certainly does not smell of acetone.jwscab wrote:That stuff is simply acetone with some stuff to make it not evaporate as quickly. It works but its more expensive than straight acetone.
Heptane - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heptane
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- LosiXXkid
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
OK, just checked the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for the ZAP Z-7 and yes, it's acetone....jwscab wrote:That stuff is simply acetone with some stuff to make it not evaporate as quickly. It works but its more expensive than straight acetone.

These are the ingredients in the Everbuild brand...
• HEPTANE
WEL (8 hr TWA): 500 ppm
• NITROMETHANE
WEL (8 hr TWA): 254 mg/m3 WEL (15 min STEL): 381 mg/m3
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- jwscab
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
That everbuild stuff is good to know. Nitromethane can dissolve tons of stuff but unless you run a nitro car its not worth getting a big container.
- LosiXXkid
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
The main active ingredient in the Everbuild brand is the Heptane.jwscab wrote:That everbuild stuff is good to know. Nitromethane can dissolve tons of stuff but unless you run a nitro car its not worth getting a big container.
The cheapest I've found the 20ml bottle on eBay is £2.70, which is about $4.30 (USD) and based on my experience, one 20ml bottle should be enough to do four wheels and tyres.
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- mytimac
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
Wow that came out much better than I expected. Thanks for sharing your results.
http://oldrc.com - Find parts for older Losi, Associated, Tamiya and others.
http://vintagelosi.com - Manuals and information on older Team Losi models
http://vintagelosi.com - Manuals and information on older Team Losi models
- Diamond Dave
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Re: Losi Jr. T (eBay bargain)
Looks great in the close up. I love that truck. You guys should see mine, I have about 50 of em!! JR-T's are awesome. Simple but great!
Well, not 50, maybe two or so.
I would own 50 if I could. 
Well, not 50, maybe two or so.


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