RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Just curious, but if going mid motor, why not just use the RC10GT transmission? Better ratio, still fully supported, cheap, upgradeable with RRP or Thorpe metal gears.........

longer takes up to much space on chassis....

That's a very ingenious way you did on that stealth transmission to turn it in mid position.

Very simple yet clever.

That's how the r/c manufacture should do it without adding an extra gear.

They add an extra gear so that the motor rotates in the same directionas the wheels. This way it rotates counter to them. The Durango DEX210 has the ability to run the same gearbox either way and in mid or rear motor.

fredswain wrote:They add an extra gear so that the motor rotates in the same directionas the wheels. This way it rotates counter to them. The Durango DEX210 has the ability to run the same gearbox either way and in mid or rear motor.

You're absolutely 1000% correct!

Theoretically, more gears = more friction = more weight.
But in todays buggy, this is negligible and unnoticed.

Theoretically, more gears = more friction = more weight.
But in todays buggy, this is negligible and unnoticed.

More importantly, any tiny fraction of a watt you'd pick up with one less gear would be totally inconsequential if you can't get the power to the ground. That's the reason for running a 4 gear trans in mid motor cars; motor turning same way as tires will increase rear wheel traction.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC10-Gold-pan-Sprint-Car-Vintage-Roller-Only-STEALTH-TRANNY-Free-TapeWeight-/161280924136?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item258d1799e8

Found this one, mid motor RC10.

Time for HyperDrive. The motor/pinion spur and top shaft would all turn forward, idler in reverse, and diff forward. Done!

The idea to flip the gearbox like this was not a new a idea...it has been done in a lot of cool cars over the years. Probably not with the mods i did to this one though...the point made about the 3 or 4 gear is neat to read about , I bet there is a gyro effect off power on power in flight control reason for doin it that way. the high team drivers could tell u down to the .5 sec a lap performance increase over each design. Im feeling good if i am only .5 (of a whole Lap) behind after the first 4 laps of a race with them The thing about the b4 box and many others is that you can only put shaft out one side...The rango i gots ta say is a work of brilliant design...If you ever get a chance to build one specially 410 you will see how amazing the machine work is. The only bitch i have on tthe 2wd is the amount of screwz it takes to get the box out..The stealth box works so cool for us nut ball builders ,, u just pop cap, flip box, flip shaft, flip mounts remount plate, And go. On this build i wanted to get motor more center so I DID some mods to a top shaft and got the shift i needed..

Wow ! I would also like to know more about this car

The first part of the build started with decision for width...as I was playing around with diff chassis I got. I set the centro chassis on to of the asc graphite chassis and you would think they made the centro chassis width from the old chassis, and that the graphite chassis was originally designed for the shorty packs to be run side ways. Started in the rear. The back was marked for the rear suspension mounts. I made the rear holes smaller for use of smaller screws (this was a mistake for later performance) My thought was to be able to shim in and out of suspension block for greater adjustments-(NOT to great out come there) I move the bulk head back a little to make room for the vertical ball stud mount. I used one of the original stealth plate drill jigs flipped for those holes. The nose was set next for the longer WB.. I made to the B4.1+8. I cut down the front of the plate and moved tubes in. The front tower in the pics is from another build. I also clipped the back of the plate just clearing the steering cranks...

I flip the steering over this give me much less bump steer..With the nose attached. i needed a mount up front below the nose tubes to hold side to lower chassis. The front blocks bolt to side, and lower chassis, and then acts as servo mount. I got lucky witjh the color of the servo going with the gold white. I had to cut little off R side block to let steering move to full position. The side of the chassis were not that difficult to do..I think the hardest part was starting the Cut---( I could here all these voicesin the back of my mind, Pople saying ---Gasp. OMG did you see the guy cut up that good chassis, to build that , Oh my i would never do that, That is so WRONG, BAD, HIDEOUS,WASTEFULL, DESTRUCTIVE--) then I said DOOOO IIIIT so i did, Notching filing bending and straitning gave the sides the shape i wanted. I had to cut some of the front off to make for the front tubes and steering to be more like a regular buggy. Each Hole was Drill-tap. I used nuts inn couple places the newer gold ones just looked so good on the build. The back of the side pieces got a little attention to curved and file

Soncho Ponza wrote:..I think the hardest part was starting the Cut---( I could here all these voicesin the back of my mind, Pople saying ---Gasp. OMG did you see the guy cut up that good chassis, to build that , Oh my i would never do that, That is so WRONG, BAD, HIDEOUS,WASTEFULL, DESTRUCTIVE--)

you SO hit that one on the head for this board but glad you did the cut. Really cool project .

Todd

The front end was Very straight forward really. Stock mounts, Arms ,the final tower was trimmed and shaved to give it a look of newer car tower witth shape but vintage, ISH, with the use of the fiberglass..the inner mounts have made on all my rigs--(T, SCT,Many buggies too) ii drilled the inner pivot hole for ball stud then file above and below for change in adjustments, as the newer buggies have, COOL i guess butt have not tested enough to finnd or drive enough these days to tell the difference by raising and lowering the ball stud...I did find an old set of the rpm truck axle spindles (the longer ones that drop down lower with longer king pins they have the same look as the new b5 caster block axles)---So with this build the hardest part was doing the full build white....all pieces HAD TO BE WHITE . This soooo made for a long build time...i was able to find a set of longer front buggy gold shocks. Outer clip type. redid o rings . and put newer pistons in..