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I've used Krylon Fusion for Plastic on vinyl & hard plastic interior parts I restored and it works very well. I dyed a center console molded in burgundy with black and it turned out great.

HI!... Ya I've used the SEM product with great results. I used it on my Taurus dome light, Explorer center console and overhead display., for my 07 Ranger.

I use rustoleum painters touch 2x ultra cover paint n primer in metallic aluminum to paint optima mid se wheels and the stuff is awesome if you let it cure properly. you need a screwdriver to scracth it off.

HI!... That's how this SEM stuff is. It actually impregnates the plastic and bonds with it. It's also flexible so it won't flake off. Going to go buy some semi flat tomorrow and see how it works on the Bigwig parts.

The Krylon stuff doesn't require a primer, because that would actually interfere with the dye from bonding. Just give it a good scrub with soapy water and stiff brush, rinse & dry, and apply. But anyway, if it works on hard plastic interior car parts, it should also work on ABS plastic, I'd imagine.

HI!... This is the weird part. All these parts were off the same two Bigwig sprue's. Blue and yellow parts. Some took the dye and others didn't. Weird.

As you can see the two front shock supports (originally blue) took the black RIT dye with no problems. The exhaust pipes and steering cover were originally yellow and they took the dye no problem.



The hood scoop/roll bar ,MSC servo mounting plate and shock bodies were also originally yellow and took the dye o.k.









These parts however refuse to dye black.



As you can see I never had a problem dying these same kinda parts before. These one's were dyed black for my aluminum chassis Bigwig about 2 years ago.

Coelacanth wrote:The Krylon stuff doesn't require a primer, because that would actually interfere with the dye from bonding. Just give it a good scrub with soapy water and stiff brush, rinse & dry, and apply. But anyway, if it works on hard plastic interior car parts, it should also work on ABS plastic, I'd imagine.

HI!... I don't use a primer with the SEM stuff either. I just clean the parts with soap/water. Then I fine glass bead the parts. Then wash them again. Dry. And paint.

they look to be a harder plastic. they almost look like oldschool bakelite. we need a chemist in here. i know that heat rearranges molecules. maybe you need to anneal them so to say. Maybe try in a pressure cooker or something to get heat up. maybe a different solvent like styrene, alcohol, thinner, the idea of acetone in the video is bassically a annealment process and is only dying surface, also acertone is very evapoative so not sure about mixing in hot water. of course experimentation with some sacraficial material should be done first. wonder if a lego would exhibit same resistance.

Have you tried a sharpie?, laugh but i know everyone here has used one for something besides marking.

Kyoshojoe wrote:they look to be a harder plastic. they almost look like old school Bakelite. we need a chemist in here. i know that heat rearranges molecules. maybe you need to anneal them so to say. Maybe try in a pressure cooker or something to get heat up. maybe a different solvent like styrene, alcohol, thinner, the idea of acetone in the video is basically a annealment process and is only dying surface, also acetone is very evaporate so not sure about mixing in hot water. of course experimentation with some sacrificial material should be done first. wonder if a Lego would exhibit same resistance.

HI!... I boiled the parts for 20 minutes before adding the dye and acetone.