I saw those in fact when i saw them I thought "Huh interesting there is a company called Moor's Ideal products that was making parts for the 4-10" I never even questioned what MIP stood for.
For the update: I'm revising the case design. The bearings were too tight of a fit (they went in but needed a little persuasion.) and a few other fits needed attention. Right now I'm working on a different mounting set up so that one does not have to have a special shock tower r have to modify any thing. By Thursday I'll put in an order at shapewayes for another prototype and go from there.
So practically nothing that i said I'd do I did. Didn't get it out by last Thursday. Got it out to day though. Had to allow for a cut out in the front tower albeit a small one. Did find what I think will be a stiffer way to mount. Adjusted the clearances for bearings and shafts. Anyway some progress and I'm certain there will be more prototypes to come. It will be tough to fit a buggy body too.
wish the owner of mip was on this site, i bet if he saw u doing this might put a fire under his ass to put out a rere mip kit. which i really think he should do now with 2 reissues rc10's out now, and a rc10t on the way???
if you could find a work around for having nose tubes, making it fit becomes a much easier task.
why not get a front shock tower with the top brace and still trim it at the bottom.
If your 3d printing parts, why not make the case and front bulkheads 1 piece?
b44 parts look like they might fit for the front but your probably designing your own.
I like that top brace idea.
hugger19 wrote:wish the owner of mip was on this site, i bet if he saw u doing this might put a fire under his ass to put out a rere mip kit. which i really think he should do now with 2 reissues rc10's out now, and a rc10t on the way???
Kind of what I was thinking too. I have a lot more appreciation for his design now that I'm trying to design it too.
Hey Guys, I was hoping to get some input on some issues I have with the front steering block, castor block and B4 CVD I'm trying to mash together. The b4 CVD is just too short in any of the 3 positions I am trying it in. I would prefer to use the Middle position (position 2 as I'm calling it). I've drawn it as a 5deg. castor block. The steering arm is using 3/8" x 1/4" Flanged bearings.
Does any body now the lengths of the different CVDs available.
Below I have listed all the positions. Turning left, Right, and Neutral in positions 1,2 and 3. Position 3 is the most inboard position. And the B4 CVD
Well really I asked because I don't think it's a good idea to use trailing knuckles. Every 4wd I can think of used inline steering knuckles and I got to think there's a good reason for that. Admittedly I don't know exactly what that reason is but my guess is that the uneven arc trailing knuckles would pull the CVD/dogbone through could cause binding.
Trailing on a 4wd would create a lot of odd length issues as the travel and steering are articulated. If you look at the 4-10 it looks like a trailing setup but the pivot points are inline with the axle
Further more , the centerline of rotation of the CVD/universal and c hub should be in line. This will prevent the doggone end from telescoping while the car turns. It can telescope a little when articulating the suspension but not during the hub rotation. You might be best served adapting b44 or yokomo parts for the hub/spindle.
I never even questioned what MIP stood for. 
Didn't get it out by last Thursday. Got it out to day though. Had to allow for a cut out in the front tower albeit a small one. Did find what I think will be a stiffer way to mount. Adjusted the clearances for bearings and shafts. Anyway some progress and I'm certain there will be more prototypes to come. It will be tough to fit a buggy body too.
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