1994 YZ10 #3 and 4
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Re: 1994 YZ10 #3 and 4
So what do you use to cut your shells? I tried scissors...now use a dremel...not sure what the go is that most people use?
- Coelacanth
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Re: 1994 YZ10 #3 and 4
For most of the job, I use a brand-new X-Acto blade & knife. I have one that has the handle cut down to half the length, making it easier to work in the smaller areas & corners. I try to keep my hand steady and score a single line, and have it extend past the body line somewhere--i.e. into a wheel-well, for example--then use a curved Lexan scissors to cut up to that score line. You can then bend the scored outer piece until it snaps, and keep following along the score line until the unwanted Lexan is all pulled free. For tight spots, the curved scissors work pretty well. Then, you can file or sand down the rough edges if necessary, making sure not to sub the outside of the body.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
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Re: 1994 YZ10 #3 and 4
hmmmm....I may have to have a look at those options. Dremel is quick and easy (bit messy) but like you say you need a steady hand or bzzzzzzzzzrppppp there goes your shell..! thanks for the info
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- DennisM
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Re: 1994 YZ10 #3 and 4
I use a rounded pair of nail scissors. Cutting including sanding the edges, takes about 3 minutes for a std. buggy body. Bodymount holes are done with a step drill held in hand.
Difficult corners are done by a round file. Allways round the inner corners - this prevents tear in the lexan. Some goes for bodypin holes, round or oval, never square.
Sorry for the hi-jack
Difficult corners are done by a round file. Allways round the inner corners - this prevents tear in the lexan. Some goes for bodypin holes, round or oval, never square.
Sorry for the hi-jack
Gone fishing
- Coelacanth
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Re: 1994 YZ10 #3 and 4
Some more observations to share...I don't like using scissors for the whole thing--especially curved scissors--because each 'snip', you get a little point in the Lexan cut-line, even if you're steady. At the end, you have a bunch of tiny pips to file or sand down. When you do the score & tear/snap, the 2 Lexan sides come apart in a single, smooth line. I only use scissors for the corners or to cut up to a score line.
I also forgot to mention, I've found the best thing for doing body mount holes is a Dremel grinding cone. It has a rounded bullet shape. I like this because you gradually and easily increase the hole size depending on how far you push in the grinding cone attachment. The hole ends up being perfectly round, too.
I sometimes also use a Dremel grinding drum attachment to quickly smooth out rough areas, and is great for rounding out the wheel-wells in road car bodies.
I also forgot to mention, I've found the best thing for doing body mount holes is a Dremel grinding cone. It has a rounded bullet shape. I like this because you gradually and easily increase the hole size depending on how far you push in the grinding cone attachment. The hole ends up being perfectly round, too.
I sometimes also use a Dremel grinding drum attachment to quickly smooth out rough areas, and is great for rounding out the wheel-wells in road car bodies.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
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Re: 1994 YZ10 #3 and 4
Cool thanks for the info. Yeah i use a cone dremel piece for holes too, they come out perfect. Tried scissors to cut the bidy but i dunno i must be a gumby. Turned to a dremel cutting wheel as i am lazy.. I think it ends up being more work! So rounding the corners...can you elaborate on that a bit? I am rather thick...
Good idea re dremel sander and wheel wells! Seeings how i am kinda asking everything here, how do u get paint or glue of bulkhead caps....tried a little acetone but i think that eats the plastic too much...same for standard yz wheels? I know its on the site here somewhere but did i mention i was lazy?...
Have been using the peroxide/sun trick for whitening and works a treat! Stuff comes out like brand new..!!

Good idea re dremel sander and wheel wells! Seeings how i am kinda asking everything here, how do u get paint or glue of bulkhead caps....tried a little acetone but i think that eats the plastic too much...same for standard yz wheels? I know its on the site here somewhere but did i mention i was lazy?...

Have been using the peroxide/sun trick for whitening and works a treat! Stuff comes out like brand new..!!
- terry.sc
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Re: 1994 YZ10 #3 and 4
yeah, just score and snap. Make sure you have a fresh sharp blade so you need very little pressure to score the body. With a bit of practice you can go all the way round the shell then snap it out in one go. This will show you how score and snapping works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzKOJ1CAG44 Practice on the excess pieces you trim off to work out how to do it.flustorm99 wrote:so sorry, do you usually just score and bend/snap the bits off?
For holes I use alexan body reamer. Designed specifically for making round holes in bodies, they can also make nice internal corners before scoring and snapping. For on road cars I mask off a clear area in the middle of each wheel arch when painting and mount the body with only the bottom edge trimmed This means you can see the wheel axle through the clear parts, then use an Olfa circle cutter to score perfectly round wheel arches that are perfectly in line with the wheels.
- stickboy007
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Re: 1994 YZ10 #3 and 4
Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I personally use curved lexan scissors for cutting and a body reamer for the holes. On rare occasions I'll use a razor or a dremel. Whatever your method, the most important thing is that you practice at it, because no tool in the world will save you from poor manual dexterity.
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