CLM's rc10 buggy projects.

[clm]

As for the b1.5 team car build, here is a pic of the chassis, all the extra holes almost look factory

Chris

[clm]

Update on the b1.5

Nylon bits from the donor 10t are cleaned up and mounted, the black rear arms are not going to stay as I plan to swap them for re-re parts. I had planned to trim down the rear bulkheads camber link mounts to emulate the worlds rear bulkhead... of course this was before I got the 10t rear bulkhead and was still planning to get the rere bulkhead, this one from the 10t is too nice to chop unfortunately. The shock towers are what I have now, I need to borrow some worlds shock towers and transmission brace so I can send them to Portland to be g10-ified. I also need to find a better nose plate then what I have, it came from the team car so is fairly roached.

None of my projects are in any hurry. Questions or comments?

Chris

[GoMachV]

I have worlds towers and trans brace to copy now (thank Klavy )
What I lack is the time to do it

[clm]

Ahh, well as I said there is no rush in any of these projects... Just put me down for some copies whenever

Chris

[clm]

Is Necroing your own threads good? lol Oh well,

Well my gold pan Re-re was sold. I still have the b 1.5 project... but true to my last post in this thread I have been distracted for a couple of years lol.

Well I have new progress on my Losi and Associated buggy projects... For the Associated projects I saved an approximately 10 year old brushed esc from someone and then... bought a worlds car kit for it? Err no, actually I bought it as a parts pack for my b 1.5 due to the $155 price from Tower Hobbies.

I had to mostly assemble the Worlds Car when it came in because it has been forever since I build an RC from a kit... I so miss that ZEN time.

I would toss up some pictures but eh, it's a Worlds Car Re-Re who needs more pictures of those? heh. I have ordered the US Idler and trans case, but I checked the top shaft and there is plenty of space between the slipper back plate and motor plate. Of all the issues I have heard of this car, the only one I had real issues with (aside from the trans) was the stupid tiny screws in the bleeder shock caps... I think I will do the old school method of loostening the shock cap instead of messing with those screws again... I had to ream the tiny hole out several sizes before I could get the screw to start.

I also found the shock tool with the rectangle in the end worked a treat for building the tie rods...

[clm]

Well I went and stripped down the partial build on the t2 chassis and built it up with the Worlds parts.

I did notice the re-anodizing on the t2 chassis has somehow evaporated on chassis in the rear :/

I do wish the arms were white and the shock towers were white fiberglass but *shrug* lol

I will take some better pics during the daytime, these pics were a bit lacking in the dark lol.

Chris

[clm]

Well I tossed some grungy 2.1 wheels on it and got some pics with it sitting on tires. Quite a while back someone asked about wheelbase so I drug out my dusty dusty Junior 2 project and let it do the measuring up. All in all it does not look that overly long when measured up against the Losi. I still need to find a hacked tub with a good tail to hack off and make a good rear bumper/skidplate.

It is kind of funny how original this confuguration actually looks heh, and that black annodizing Go had done to the t2 dub matches the noseplate nicely, too bad it is all scratched up on the bottom.. and yes before you ask... (if anyone is actually looking in here anymore lol) I did drop one of the countersunk battery holder screws so have a temporary cap head one until the other one turns up :p

I did drag out the Gold pan to get a wheelbase shot with it too

I went through and researched the box art electronics for the worlds car.. and will start buying them here soonish?

[clm]

Well I was hacking at my rc10t/t2 basher project out of boredom and ended up cutting the motor guard off so I could fit the t2 motor guard I had.

I offered up the hacked off motor guard to the b1.5 and well it looks like it would be a good option however I could not cut the chassis to fit the t2 motor guard and have enough left to make the guard for the b1.5 doh. I decided to cut so the guard would mount on the T as it had all the drilling and cutting to fit the t2 rear end already. I will just have to keep an eye out for a cheesed chassis for the motor guard for the b1.5.

Next month I plan to get a b3 body and a set of white rear wheels with possibly box art tires. I managed to get some NIP white 3 piece front wheels that I will likely use on the build even though the 2.1 size may be difficult to find visually appropriate tires for.. but dang it I love seeing those black screws there in the middle

I would LOVE to find some NIP or really nice white front arms... I am also considering swapping the v2 shocks for original top loaders and of course ordering new dogbones as per the other thread someone posted. I have assembled the new transmission for the worlds kit with the US case and Idler... it feels just like my other stealths now

[clm]

Got a pile of parts in and got to do my second least favorite RC activity... no not driving! Pfft! :p

I got to custom trim a body to fit on a chassis that it was not intended for! Yay! I looked around for a body to go on the 1.5 as I wanted one that just hugged the chassis just as close as it could and that one seemed to be the way to go, although after trimming and mounting it has become apparent to me I probably need to do a behind the shock tower conversion on the rear shocks and maybe a separate nose piece to take up the room at the front maybe? Eh this works for now. I also swapped the black rear arms with re-re white arms along with some other minor swaps like v2 for v1 shocks (although I need some 1.32 shock bodies for the rear >.<), and all the black plastic I could swapped for re-re white. GoMachV has some white g10 shock towers and trans brace in the works that should teamcar-ify those pieces.

And the rear wheels.. ugh does anyone know of natural nylon colored rear 2.2 wheels? These whiter-then-snow wheels clash with the nip front wheels I managed to get

The final parts I need to get for this build will be;
-new rear mounts so that I can add a small slot at the rear for the motor guard to fit under
-some 1.32 shock bodies for the rear shocks (and shock oil for all of them :p)
-some front axles without the built in world car spacer... Anyone know which opes I need?
-shock towers which are being produced
-rear bulkhead to trim to worlds style ears

And paint.. ugh.. paint.. Does anyone out there know of anyone I could commission a rc10t2 inspired paint job on this body with? heh

Technically I should probably find some rear universals for the car as well as period motor and electronics but do I really want to go that far?

In the order I also got a Re-Re body and decals for Eddy as well as the diamond wing mounts, the store did not have the appropriate wing in stock though... oh well

P.S. Man.. that early body really did not have much in the way of trim lines, they were more just a way to remove the flange at the bottom >.< I will probably go with the body mount on the bellcranks as well, trying to make that angled body mount fit always was a pain in my.. rear.

[jwscab]

if that rear bulkhead was peroxided, that is why you lost the color on the rear of the chassis anodizing. peroxided parts will take out the dye in the anodizing if they aren't re-boiled to leach out as much peroxide as possible.

[clm]

Front axles have been sourced (stolen)

I found the front axles I needed on the t/t2 hybrid... so I stuck 10t front axles and steering blocks on that pile and took the t2 aluminum axles for the b1.5

MUCH Better!

[clm]

if that rear bulkhead was peroxided, that is why you lost the color on the rear of the chassis anodizing. peroxided parts will take out the dye in the anodizing if they aren't re-boiled to leach out as much peroxide as possible.

Hmm.. Well that is good to know, if I can find a new place to anodize I will have it recoated along with some new parts. But I have to get an acceptable motor guard put together for it first ... That or I will toss a t2 battery foam strip down and cover it