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The FP-T 2F is fun to use but the AM channels are susceptible to interference. I had a scare running my Jagermeister 12E when it picked up some interference so that put an end to using it. Shame as it's quite a different feeling from the pistol grip radios we have now.

BTW, 72MHz was for airplanes back then, 27MHz is what we used for cars. The airplane guys would get all huffy when they found out someone was running a car on 72.

I had a 72 band designated for car use, it was phased out by AMA but some very early 72 was land use. Those frequencies no longer exist for aircraft- I think that's why it starts at channel 11

I see what Kent is saying. 72.080 is aircraft use only while 72.160 can be used for surface. If I change to a surface receiver and use new radio and receiver crystals will it still work? Or is the radio tuned to work only for aircraft use regardless of the crystal used?

You have to stay within the bands

Well blast! I have a another receiver and I've already ordered a new crystal set so I'll just use my FP-T 2F then. Disappointing but not the end of the world.

That's been my experience anyway. Someone that can tune the radio may be able to get it to 75 band.

72 MHz is ok for surface as long as it's one of the designated surface frequencies. My FP-T 2F wheel radio is surface 72.160 the stick radio is 72.080 aircraft only.

PlastiZapCA+ wrote:I'll be using the FP-3S for this car pictured on the left. Got this radio new in the box a while back. Will be interesting to see how the stick setup works. Going back out to the garage shortly to do some more work.

I see steering but where is the throttle ????

On the right side. You cradle it and work the throttle with your left index finger.

Think he might be talking about the "glider" radio

Ahh, well if that's the case....the stick moves up down left and right, so throttle can be there, or on the left is a lever that looks like a trim. That's a channel also

That would take a lot of getting used to...Might be better as a display piece...

Definitely not using the stick radio now as it's on an aircraft only frequency. The stick does indeed control throttle by pushing it forward. Steering and throttle all in one.

I'm not slacking just so you know. I'm working on the body details which will be a bit tedious. Trying to get all the messy jobs out of the way before final assembly of the chassis. Body should be ready for paint by the weekend and decals should be in hand too.

All the parts I'm fabricating will be able to hold up to the usual abuse encountered by an R/C car. Well the spoilers might not look so good after a rollover but they would hold up. I've fabricated these from sheet aluminum. They are glued with 3M emblem adhesive to a small balsa block and then screwed onto the body. The ones pictured are still in the early stages of construction and are not final products. I've also made aluminum covers for the door handle block offs and hood pins etc. You'll see it all later on.


On the real car the fins sit at an angle and follow the body outward. The aluminum in the center of the fins is also raised. I'm replicating this for my car.


Can't really think of a good way to replicate the headlamps being open and not be too fragile so I'll probably do them closed with the aluminum panels showing. It will be a reasonable facsimile of them closed anyway. Too much detail for a running rc car and it wouldn't survive a crash anyway.