Turbo Optima Mid SE-X

[HKS_TRD]

The locknuts are flanged but smooth on the inside not serated

The reason I went with flanged is they have a wider contact area so less likely to dig into the wheel, though this is probably more important on plastic wheels though

I'm planning on painting it gold with the standard box art sticker scheme

[Coelacanth]

The locknuts are flanged but smooth on the inside not serated

Ahh that's good. Most I've seen have the circular serrations, and they'd definitely risk harming that pretty gold surface.

[HKS_TRD]

When I was shopping on eBay for wheel nuts I bought some blue ones as well for other projects and I avoided the ones with the serated edges, I don't think I could even bring myself to use them on plastic wheels lol

I have been considering getting a spare motor plate anodised gold and a rear wishbone plate too or is that just becoming gold overload too

I don't know what it is I keep getting ideas for different projects, it never ends!

[HKS_TRD]

One more piece to the puzzle turned up along with something you can read about in another thread ...



I didn't use the upper section at this stage as I might use them on another project plus they seem to need a slightly larger hole in the wing than the standard plastic pieces



The extension I left on the body just clears the wing mounts, though I might put a couple notches in it to make it look like its meant to be there

[HKS_TRD]

Minor update

I had a batch of parts anodised recently for a number of projects and that included some pieces for this build.

I still haven't painted the shell, and now for some reason I'm thinking that maybe I should put medium length shocks on the front of this build with a custom shock tower

[DennisM]

The anodized parts makes a good contrast against the carbon - It looks very good.
How´s the body going to be?

Can You get the Platinum shocks in medium?

[rccars4sal]

I really like that carbon chassis. One of these days...

[Coelacanth]

Nice gold nuggets in there. You should really swap out the Plat's for Golds, though.

[HKS_TRD]

The anodized parts makes a good contrast against the carbon - It looks very good.
How´s the body going to be?

Can You get the Platinum shocks in medium?

I plan to paint the body gold with smoked windows and apply the SE stickers as per box art
You can't get medium length platinium shocks, I have another set of used platinums not sure if I could mix and match bits to make something workable but I doubt it

I really like that carbon chassis. One of these days...

Fibrelyte made the chassis for me, they should still have it on file if you want one the same

Nice gold nuggets in there. You should really swap out the Plat's for Golds, though.

I have been thinking about that but then its got no SE DNA left in it and I'm not sure what I would do with the platinums as I bought them new, though they could go on my Mid Custom Special I guess.
I have been also considering putting a set of kyosho velvet shock on it, I have rears (albeit 38 instead of 42 length but should be OK for the shelf) just need the 30s for the front

[DennisM]

Regarding the shocks -
Take Your brand new platinums (just the cylinders) and have them re-anno´ed in the same gold as the other parts.
You´ve already spent a small million on this baby - money wise, this shouldn´t hurt too much.

Girls will be taking turns sitting on Your lap, commenting on Your nice buggy everywhere You go

It´s going to be hard to match the "pale" gold shocks to the "orange" gold.

You´ll not be allowed to put medium shocks on this one anyways - the DVK regulation is against it, sorry

[HKS_TRD]

I heard a story that someone once tried to get platinums anodised and the bodies dissolved in the wash tank

What is the DVK regulation?

[DennisM]

Oh, then I would make a test with something less valuable first.

DVK - Danish Vintage Kyosho

[tamiyadan]

.

[j0pp3]

If you ever run the car I would swap the carbon motor plate for a light speed heat sink setup or a lazer finned motor plate.

Cooling is a nightmare on the turbo mid and lazer chassis.

Back in the days, yes. Today if you run a brushless 10.5T or more turns it should be no problem. I checked my motor after a 8 min final (Hobbywing Xerun 10.5T) and it was cool. I could hold my hand on it without getting burned. That was with stock motor plate but anyway

[HKS_TRD]

I don't plan to run it, but I do have an A&L finned motor plate that I could put on it
Actually I have two, the second one has been anodised and found a home on another project, I'll be starting a separate thread for it but here is a sneek peak