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nice work and good ideas, I also have those A&L trailing arms (the same as yours and also a new complete A&L epoxy chassis for the RC10), do you think they really ad something to the handling of the car compared to the original ones? Actually, I've still not tried them on the road, so maybe your opinion will convice me. I'm rather a collector of the RC10, and I prefer to ride with my B4, I put so much efforts to collect, reassemble, clean etc. that I am almost scared to scratch them, even lightly

by the way, yours pics are much better like that, maybe you could use the macro option on your camera (flower symbol generally) for the very close pictures you take

A couple of photos to update the progress of the resto so far. The parts I planned to reuse are cleaning up nicely, and the new parts I have aquired are falling right into place. The hard parts seem to be the little pieces like hinge pins, shock collars and turnbuckles and things like that.

I had plans for the MIP diff to be in this car, but the forward-most holes for the diff (the only two the MIP uses) are drilled slightly crooked, and the diff sits cocked in the car a few degrees. For a shelf queen, it's not a big deal, but I'm weird like that. This car will be in race-ready condition when it is done if it breaks me.

Currently it sits as a Houge chassis with Houge traling arms. The shock towers are Composite Craft graphite, and the shocks are Kyosho Golds, potentially with Associated shock hardware and springs. The steering belcrank setup is NOS Team Losi aluminum with bearings, and will be connected to a reconditioned Futaba S132 servo (needs new wires installed).

Electronics will be Novak NER2 receiver mated to a Novak T1x ESC, all powered by a 1400 SCR 7-cell pack. The motor set for the car is an original Checkpoint 16 turn double 2wd off road mod motor. Wing things are old school Buds/BRP. Tires and wheels will be Schumacher Cat spikes over Proline delrin wheels. The body and diff are still kind of unknown at the moment. I guess we'll see as it progresses.

What do you plan to do for attaching the rear shocks to the shock tower? I mean to put them at an angle...

Asso_man! wrote:What do you plan to do for attaching the rear shocks to the shock tower? I mean to put them at an angle...

Well, just like on the original Houge design intended, there will be another hole drilled on the shock tower about 5/8" lower on the wing of the shock tower, and they will be mounted there. That's how it was designed, that's how we ran them, and that's how this one will be restored.

I definitely want to see how you mount the shocks since I've never seen them mounted the way they were intended. I was thinking of mounting mine with a set of mounts from an A&L trailing arm set.

apexspeed wrote:Exactly the same for myself and my younger brother. He ran a rear A-arm car that was similar to mine, and then stepped up to a trailing arm car. We ran ONLY stock back then, but this one will be set up and restored as a full mod 2wd car. I even get to break oout my Checkpoint motors...

That is what I am looking for...a Checkpoint Platinum!!! or a YOKOMO canned Trinity motor...a bit impossible to find.

Doug,really nice!! I get a look at the old stuff,and I get tunnel vision LOL
(aka spend money) Winter is coming,so will have some time to get back in the old stuff boxes.Hope everbody is well on the board.Talk at y'all soon.

Doug,by the way any luck with locating any Parma 'mudbus' bods??
Thanks pal,TTYS!!

Thanks Dan, I did get to work on it a bit mor yesterday. Still trying to track down some original shock parts and a few other bits.

Dan, check this out on eBay. It's an odd one, and I can't remember what that mudbuss looked like. It may be part of it...

Update for late November...

I made spme pretty decent progress this weekend (I was bored), getting most of the suspension done, even though there are still shock parts outstanding. The chassis was massaged to accept the MIP gearbox correctly, and the dummy servo is set in for the front end alignment.

The battery cup in the stock position is too short for the 1400SCR cells, which is really odd to me. I don't remember any fit problems originally, so I will need to fix this. Right now the loose cells are stuffed in there.

I keep going back and forth with the shock layout in the rear. I know we used to run them in the front of the shock tower, but with the lower shock ball links that are on the Kyosho Golds right now, there is binding. For now, they are mounted to the rear. It works, but it's not the way we used to run the rear shocks.

The gearbox is freshly rebuilt with all new parts, and it's the planetary gear center section. It's silky smooth as I recall it being.

The wing mounts are later model Trinity pieces, and I hate them. We ran Bud's "bullets" and they were much cleaner looking. I had a set in my grasp last week on eBay and lost them when the phone rang at work (damn clients always getting in the way). I'm still on the lookout for those.

I'm also still searching for NOS RC10 nylon shock parts. Black is fine, if you know of any... at least one pair's worth. An original nylon tranny brace is on my list, too. The newer ones that I found with the multiple holes for later Stealth trannies fit for crap, and isn't period correct, so I'm still searching for that.

I had a super clean Novak T1X earmarked for this car, but I now remember why no one ran them in 2wd cars... they don't fit well. I guess I'm now adding a T1 or T4 to my list, too.



So just about everything on this car is NOS and out of the package, or really dern close to new. It's coming together exactly as I had imagined it. I'm patterning the car more off of a car my brother raced, and he used a Proline buggy body which closely resembled the original RC10 body. I haven't seen one of those in a while, but should that or a Mirage come along, I'm going deep.

For now, until I get a chance to photograph it in daylight...

Awesome Awesome Awesome!

That is one great looking RC10. Even if it barely has any AE parts on it.

Great build. Can't wait to see it complete. You've got to do a killer era-appropriate paint job on it too.

looking good doug. in my experience, i have never been able to put a battery in an rc10, with the box in the stock location, and have the battery fit. the box always needed to go ahead a little bit.

thats way cool.

Very nice.

Wow, now that I'm looking at the photos, the parts on the front end that are dyed are REALLY obvious with the flash, even though they look JET black to the naked eye. I might need to update those.

I was sitting there looking at the battery cup issue, and I remembered that we used to grind down or relieve the inside of the bulkhead to get the batteries to fit better. I don't know if that's what I'll do in this case, but there has to be a better fit somehow.


More soon...