Page 3 of 4
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:16 pm
by Charlie don't surf
You'd need the RPM hydra shaft to use the b4 slipper- I wouldn't bother with the 2.65 trans honestly. The B/T/SC 4 all use a 2.60 trans, but from a larger diff gear instead of a smaller top shaft- I run that tranny in my 10t runner, and I kill idlers (the teeth get sharp from the poor mesh with the topshaft) 3 times a year-
But I've not had any troubles with my 2.25..
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 11:53 pm
by farmer
thx for the info reg
saved me a head ache but i sure do like the smooth shape of the case is there
a case like this that could be used with the b4 top shaft and slipper and the stock stealth gears?
farmer
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:00 pm
by Charlie don't surf
No, RPM made this 2.65 case for stock slipper and for the hydradrive, and they made a grey cased 1.95 trans conversion but no hydra version.
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 11:50 pm
by farmer
jon burrows wrote:This is a great list of what is needed for the klein / bigjeepzz arm conversion composed by PBR Allstar. Since, you spray painted yours, it should be fairly easy to pick up a beat (or new) 10t nose plate and take the same steps you did to spray paint the rc10 nose plate. Or, perhaps cut the orange spray painted nose plate that you have, like Y'ernat Al did in his recently completed beautiful OTBA build here
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=24390 and touch up as needed. Or, I'm sure there are 10 other ways 10 other members could think up
jb
PBR Allstar wrote:Okay, this I think is a pretty comprehensive list of how to do the Klein arm conversion. if anyone else has anything to ad post it up!
http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2700 Rear X2
http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2701 Front X2
http://www.avidrc.com/product/?c=0&p=102 Rear hub bearings x4
http://www.avidrc.com/product/?c=9&p=48 Front wheel bearings x4
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU81 RPM GT Carriers 70272
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSYV7 Associated Rear CVA Kit B44
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAH8&P=Z Associated wheel spacers
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYT2&P=7 Associated wide front axles
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAK8&P=SM Associated rear wheels
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAK7&P=SM Associated front wheels
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2914&P=7 Associated truck bulkhead
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2964&P=SM Associated shock tower
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2585&P=SM Associated 1.02 shocks
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBVF8&P=7 Associated front springs
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2929&P=M Associated truck nose tubes
(these need to be shortened and redrilled for the correct wheelbase)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTHT3&P=7 Dubro turnbuckles (x3 these need to be cut to length but is the cheap way to go, also good to use to determine length if you want to use titanium in the future
You will also need a truck front nose plate, these are no longer in production but are easy to find in the BST section or aftermarket ones are very plentiful on ebay like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Alloy-Front-Nose-Plate-Bumper-Fits-RC10GT-RC10_W0QQitemZ190311126494QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c4f6d55de
There are other ways around it, but that is a pretty comprehensive parts list, it can be done pretty cheap (realatively speaking) if you get parts and help from members here, and scour ebay. If you want the slammed body look with the cut down chassis then you need to make your own rear shock tower or find a 10T rear tower which is no longer available from associated, but are still easy to find on ebay.
The assembly is very straight forward, Like mentioned above, you need to cut the nose tubes and redrill them so they work with the nose plate in the short wheelbase position, if you opt not to do this it will still work but the steering geometry will not be correct. It's good to have a dremel on hand as a couple parts may need a small tune up to fit perfectly, it's also a good idea to have a .126" chucking ream on hand to ensure a perfect fit of your hinge pins, those can be found at mcmaster carr for cheap
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3087a31/=57tbxg hope this all helps those wanting to do the conversion!
ok as im getting stuff together for my orange build
i found a discrepancy
in this quoted post it states to get b44 cvds
but in the original arm run thread it says to get the b4 cvds
the b44 cvds are shorter than the b4's rite?
which one do i need
thx farmer
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 3:55 am
by uniquenamehere
I'm really enjoying this, you're inspiring the creative part of my relatively small brain... if only i had access to the BST area...
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 7:59 am
by scr8p
uniquenamehere wrote:if only i had access to the BST area...
you do now though.
farmer wrote:
ok as im getting stuff together for my orange build
i found a discrepancy
in this quoted post it states to get b44 cvds
but in the original arm run thread it says to get the b4 cvds
the b44 cvds are shorter than the b4's rite?
which one do i need
thx farmer
you don't have dynotech arms (which is what that whole write up is about), you have jake's arms which are designed for b4 cvds.
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 8:37 pm
by jon burrows
scr8p wrote:uniquenamehere wrote:if only i had access to the BST area...
you do now though.
farmer wrote:
ok as im getting stuff together for my orange build
i found a discrepancy
in this quoted post it states to get b44 cvds
but in the original arm run thread it says to get the b4 cvds
the b44 cvds are shorter than the b4's rite?
which one do i need
thx farmer
you don't have dynotech arms (which is what that whole write up is about), you have jake's arms which are designed for b4 cvds.
sorry for not getting back to you sooner farmer. from what I understand the b4 & b44 cvd lengths are just a little bit different
however, i just started building my what's old is new buggy and haven't yet gotten to the drivetrain, so I can't comment from experience. so I'll have to go with scr8p.
I actually bought both b4 & b44. I'll probably start a thread on mine tonight. I should be able to get to the cvd dilema this weekend.
jb
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:08 pm
by farmer
ok im likeing the rear shock tower on jeepz buggy
any info jeepz?
But! i dont care for the for the front 10t towers
i dont care for the connected front tower
i like the worlds style tower
is there a worlds type shock tower that will fit the 10t bulkhead
that will except the longer shocks
but out of all of the different 10t towers
this one is probably the best looking one
i guess i could just get one and cut it
this is jeepz buggy
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:44 pm
by JK Racing
Those were hand cut towers (M_Vice), in the BST has a split top style tower for the RPM worlds style front ends.
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:52 pm
by scr8p
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:00 pm
by JK Racing
dont forget the Scr8p front shock tower, Andys/S&K, to use standard buggy front shocks
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:04 pm
by scr8p
that only works on a graphite chassis though.
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 11:20 pm
by farmer
scr8p wrote:hit up jay dub
composite%20craft%20front%20tower.JPG
would'nt you have to drill nose tubes through that tower?
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 11:39 pm
by JK Racing
scr8p wrote:that only works on a graphite chassis though.
Still a great shot though
Re: Orange ?
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 7:32 am
by scr8p
JK Racing wrote:Still a great shot though
i know, i love that pic.
farmer, he has them in both styles, holes and no holes. just tell him which one you want.