Think Outside the Boxart, Old is Newdillac, Worldinger Build

[fredswain]

Now that you've got tires on it, what did the overall width settle at edge to edge of the widest point?

[Charlie don't surf]

I know that there were a few "homemade" stealth type cars after the 91' worlds that used truck arms and such, but this car from start to finish was really something in my opinion. Great blend of new and old from the suspension mods right down to the paint and wing ends. Superb job!

[Y'ernat Al]

Now that you've got tires on it, what did the overall width settle at edge to edge of the widest point?

The max is exactly 250mm in the front (as long as it's picked up / at full droop). It's a couple c' hairs outside that when you count the rubber sidewall and sit it front-arms-level. So I'm happy it will stuff into a box if need be .

I know that there were a few "homemade" stealth type cars after the 91' worlds that used truck arms and such, but this car from start to finish was really something in my opinion. Great blend of new and old from the suspension mods right down to the paint and wing ends. Superb job!

Thanks. I need a rc10talk decal on it though! (along with a ebay sponsorship ) It is essentially buggy "driven" through a bunch of rc10talk posts when you think about it, with some of my own ideas obviously. I really do have a better one for the rear, I think.

I drove it around with a 10.5 in it and that's just silly. It' was fun to see how long I could ride a wheelie, but I really should take it back down to earth now. I'm not that good of a driver. I do think the front end is pretty strong though. I hit it nose in and sent it end-over-end without issue.

[soniccj5]

Awesome!!!

[Y'ernat Al]

After running this around just a little bit I got a couple of better ideas. The old white front caster blocks were just a little too floppy for me. Thanks to cautrell05 for the idea, I got my hands on some XXXt / SCT carriers, filed them down to fit, and the whole front end tightened up nicely, (and I gained back the 3mm width I lost when the tire sidewalls went on ).



And then I revisited the rear end. I didn't like the 3 degree worlds carriers too much because they really belong in the parts box with my worlds arms . Out of the same box I pulled a well used Robinson Adjustable Block set and disassembled it. I realized I can use the bulkhead and 6 gear holes to mount the thing. I drilled and tapped it for 2 degrees at the front hole and about 3.5 degrees at the rear 6 gear holes. Then I take a dremmel to the inside edge and carve out the tranny outline (to fit at the 2 degree position). These things are very hard plastic, I can't tell how brittle, but if they hold up, this is awesome being able to go from 2 to 3.5 degrees of tow in by just changing an 8-32 screw.



I don't have good pics but I took this crapped-out 1 eared bulk head and precisely cut out the base at the mounting holes to fit the Robinson blocks. I also had to lengthen the 8-32 holes up into the bulkhead because I used 3/4 in lengths to go through the blocks and into the bulkhead. I don't know how this will hold up, but it is TIGHT!

O.K. Now I'm done.

[uniquenamehere]

Nice work!

[SnoopMaxx]

I love your build and that body is awesome

However
This is what happened to my Losi hub on my Traxxas SRB

Glued with 2 part resin



Lasted less than one battery


I replaced it with the Traxxas Jato hub
No issues sins then




Morten

[vintage AE]

Cant believe that I just found this build. Wouldn't have even seen it if you didn't post it on the thread for complete old is new build thread.

Great job on this buggy!

[Y'ernat Al]

Thanks gents. Snoop, out here in So. Cal a tube of 2-part epoxy costs more than Losi SCT parts, so I'll be fine I think.

I don't know if it's much of an issue for all the guys that use the 10T "worlds" front end, but I can't see why one shouldn't bring the steering bellcranks in when one brings in the hinge pins. I had an intolerable amount of bump out until I played around a bit...



I have also put in a pair or 8-32 holes rearward, while testing with steering blocks with a longer lever (B4 and the Losi T for example), but I think for our classic RC10 bellcranks, the old trailing (or inline) steering blocks work the best, as they are on the same lever length if that makes any sense.



So now I have it. Vital statistics:

Weight: 1530g fully dressed with a 4000mah
Wheelbase: 282mm (at Ride Height)
Width: 252(F)/249(R) (sidewall to sidewall at Ride Height)
Rear Tow-In: Adjustable (Approx. 2 and 3.5 degrees)
Kickup: 25 degrees
Length: 400mm (bumper to bumper).
If anyone wants to know anything else, just ask, because I measured everything twice in order to cut once

And so far so good on the rear end holding up, and I really like sticking my finger in to flick the switch..

[SnoopMaxx]

Really ??
Oh well Glad you got it working again

Are you sure about the wheel base ?
Isn't it 282mm and not 82mm




P.S.
I got an A-stamp chassis and a bunch of parts and decals for my birthday
I'll post a build when I'm done with the Stampede for my Daughter


Morten

[Y'ernat Al]

..Isn't it 282mm and not 82mm

Thanks Morten. Yanks and the metric system..

[socal jared]

I love the build! The adjustable rear toe, sct hubs, access hole marked "power", awesome Al!

[askbob]

Very slick! Are the rear 10T arms stock or did you shorten the pin location on the inside or out?

[Y'ernat Al]

Very slick! Are the rear 10T arms stock or did you shorten the pin location on the inside or out?

Funny you should askbob. They are shortened at the inside. I actually had one broken at the old hole, so I built a jig on the drill press to drill parallel holes just inward, an filed away things to fit. I was that dedicated to keeping things white and of RC10 pedigree at that point. I think I should have a photo or two in the early part of the thread.

[SnoopMaxx]

..Isn't it 282mm and not 82mm

Thanks Morten. Yanks and the metric system..

Your welcome Mate