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It would be much easier to shorten the CV's, but modifying the carriers also moves the axle pins out about 3/16" which widens the overall width. I don't really like the carrier modification, but so far I haven't come up with anything better.

don't the klein arms take care of that offset?

yup

It's all preference. As I said in the beginning, there are several ways to build these things and I certainly don't claim this to the the best. This is what works for me. As for the Klein arms; simply put I don't like them. I have 3 pair and they will never see use. I prefer to use the original parts (or original aftermarket designed for the RC10) where possible. I have the same opinion of the truck front ends on the buggy. That doesn't mean it's not right or a great way to build it, just not the way I like to do it. Think of it like a full size vehicle. Some guys like Chevy while some like Ford. This is my Chevy.

I totally understand.

For me, I'd take the cheaper(off the shelf) solution before the (modify $25.00 hubs with possibility of damage) solution.

the car(s) look fantastic anyway, I bet they are a blast to drive!

JHarris wrote:It's all preference. As I said in the beginning, there are several ways to build these things and I certainly don't claim this to the the best. This is what works for me. As for the Klein arms; simply put I don't like them. I have 3 pair and they will never see use. I prefer to use the original parts (or original aftermarket designed for the RC10) where possible. I have the same opinion of the truck front ends on the buggy. That doesn't mean it's not right or a great way to build it, just not the way I like to do it. Think of it like a full size vehicle. Some guys like Chevy while some like Ford. This is my Chevy.

My feelings exactly! I'm not bashing the Kleins in anyway, don't get me wrong. I just can't justify the $9.00 a peice for them when they look like they're just cut out of flat stock. I hear they're strong and lots of guys here have them, I would rather have a molded arm I guess......But we all know the molded equivelent to the klein's are super hard to find. Especially the fronts. I may have to get some for my old is new build and just dye them black, that seems to help the looks a little......

Okay, rant over with.......

I've been playing around with some B4 hubs on my standard RC10. I'm wondering if there is another MIP bone that would work with the B2/b3 axles to accomodate the B4 wheels/hubs. It seems that the B2/B3 axles sit well in the B4 hubs(no interference with the carrier). B4 bones are too long and B2/B3's are too short. What might be a good in between CVD.

as far as i know, mip will make custom length cvd bones to your specifications. or atleast i thought they did.

i don't know what the cost would be. but if you guys that build your rc10's with the b4 rear hubs all get together, i small run to knock out a couple sets might not be too bad. just a thought......

That's another idea. I'm just wondering if there is something already out there. I need to hit up the big hobby shop in Sacramento and see what they got.

easiest thing to do would be to e-mail mip and ask them if they have a bone in the length you need, can use the b4 axle, and and will work in the associated outdrives.

I called them earlier today. I left a message for them to call me back. Hopefullly they can help. I like my Dynatech arms but it would be cool to have another way to run those wheels with off the shelf parts.

Just got off the phone with MIP. They have bones in all kind of lengths but the problem is finding something to fit the outdrives. Associated has a smaller bone end than Losi or Traxxas bones. They wouldn't fit in the outdrives. The guy told me that he would check the length of the Yokomo ones and get back if they fit. Stay tuned.

I had a couple questions asked about mounting the body. There are currently a few different bodies that are available for the RC10. The Protech single seater (original RC10 body) is available from Associated for $14 and can be attached using velcro on the sides of the chassis. Next is the Viper from Associated. Also $14, but attachment is a little different. I attach the Viper the same way I do the Mirage SS, which is available as a reproduction through Mrlexan for $39.95/ea. Below are the pictures of my mounting of the Viper or Mirage bodies.

Since I use B4 wing mounts on my cars I remove the rear section of the body. This is still authentic for the cars of yester-year since I did this same modification back in the day. With no rear section and no way to velcro the body to the chassis I decided to use mounts inside the chassis. I have found that 10T/T2 front body mounts work well as do the Kyosho body mounts. I use a spacer underneath the body post with a countersink washer (color matching the theme of the car) to raise the post to the appropriate height.

Nice! How did that painter get those clown faces in there???

Larry does some pretty sick work. He does everything using tape, pencil and exacto. That is except the faces. He uses stencils for the skulls or in my case, the clowns. Check out his thread on rctech.net for an idea of what he can do. You will even see both the RC10's I built for him and his son.

You will notice in the mounting pictures of my car and Jeremy's that his mounts are in the rear of the chassis and mine are more forward. Both work the same but he wanted his antenna in the front while I wanted the antenna in the traditional location.