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Nicely different this yellow buggy

What do you guys think we should do to make these Race steering mounting nuts better (NIX91-025 and NIX91-026) ?
Check out the picture... this is the current design. Should we use shorter screws and make holes shorter? That would help the case when body post want to snap off. Maybe #6281 screws are unnecessary long.

My steering rack is great. Except the aluminum 8/32 screws, they flex under load and will be replaced with hex steel versions.

The plastic parts are great. I prepped mine by using a Du-bro 8/32 tap and cutting the threads. Then I cut the head off an extra 8/32 screw, threaded it into the plastic steering rack nut, put the screw in a drill and spun it up, then carefully sanded the surface where the bearing goes while the cut off screw was threaded inside it. This method allowed me to get the steering bearings to fit correctly after the screw was threaded inside and slightly expanded the plastic part.

if those parts are really made as you have shown, there is a definite weak point right above that top bearing. Either a longer screw is necessary, or a shorter one with the material filled in,so that the void is below that top bearing.

If it was me, I'd use steel screws long enough to support both bearings (longer on the servo drive side) and tap the plastic parts prior to install.

I don't see breaking the plastic part while running the car happening. But if you try to cut the threads with the 8/32 aluminum screw, your going to strip the screw or break the head off the plastic part, and it expands the plastic making it very tight for the bearings. Measure the depth of the hole, tape off the depth on a 8/32 tap, tap the hole, turn down the bearing surface with a nail file so the bearing fits and everything will be mint. That extra space above the screw let the pointed tap work great.

Can you indicate on the CAD where the failure is occurring?

Thanks Limestang

What kinda length are we talking to get a longer screw in? Just so i can get an order in? Thinks thats a better option?

Bests....lee

I know it would be harder but I think alloy would be a better option than the 3d printed parts. Just for the parts that screw down.
It would be great if someone could to the whole thing in alloy.

Couldnt the Jconcepts alloy ones be used/adapted?

Lee

I think the J concepts ones are too short and too low. The shortness would affect ackerman and the lowness would make it catch on the suspension arm. I'm also worried about how strong the steering arms are where the ball studs go through. The 3d printed material is much softer than injection molded nylon.

I'm thinking of getting new steering parts made locally and know a couple of people in Australia that could do it.

slotcarrod wrote:Shapeways just messed up my race parts order and sent me standard rear arms instead of the race version. I thought I made the error, but checked and nope, my order was correct!

I emailed photos of the barcode and the parts!

They emailed me back and said I was wrong and that I was sent the correct parts! What a crap show!

Awe dude, that ducks.

Are the pics still up for the exact part number race arms you purchased? I'm wondering if the parts don't look like the pic how they can say they are correct?!

You can send this picture to Shapeways and ask which one they think they printed.
Standard replica arm is 2.5mm and Race is 4.0mm. Shouldn't be so hard to identify

What I don't understand is, it's all numbers to them. They just have a file, print it and ship it. At what point would it be near others that look similar?! Same with those of us that got "extra one side and not enough other side" kits. How can this even occur?

When they polish them, I think they all go in a big tumbling vat. Not 100% sure though!

Someone is going to get a set of race arms instead of standard.