RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Nice looking version Kenny.
You guys are killing me though with the different ways to work this truck over
Very happy that you are all posting your ideas.

I finally got to test mine this morning. I also did a test run on my rere Bruiser that has been sitting for almost 3 years.
Bottom line......They both feel, shift and run identically with the exception that the clone is dead quiet, while the rere is not as quiet in low and 2nd gear. Not a huge difference, but enough so that you would know which one was running.

Thanks to you guys posting, i did remove the small leaf on all corners, but also dumped the shocks. Replaced with rere shocks some guy in Japan sells off. At this point the clone rides very nice. Since i bought this truck for tinkering though i will be trying these too. Very nicely made, just haven't had time to put them together yet.
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/gma23202.htm

I know we all pretty much agree that the tires that come with these are not the best, but the 2 kits i bought came with both sets having soft rubber that is close to the softness of the Proline Mashers i hoarded away when i got into the Bruiser fad.
So being impressed i bought another set from Banggood............don't bother though as the set showed up yesterday, and they are not soft at all which says what we all know about the consistency in Chinese rubber.
Took 5 weeks to get here too.

The tires that came on mine were fairly soft. I would say as soft as any chevron tread pattern monster truck tire from tamiya, traxxas, etc. Usually, these types of tires from any brand do not have foam, so they have to be fairly stiff to keep the sidewalls from sagging. Unless you're playing in sand, it's the chevron pattern itself that does not do well. It's my favorite style of tire for my blackfoot, clodbuster, sledgehammer, etc., but for this truck I wanted to try something different. There are a limited amount of choices for 2.2 tires under 125mm tall.

Here's another tire option; Tamiya Vise Crawler pn 51324, 121mm OD
https://www.amazon.com/51324-Tires-Toyota-Cruiser-Tamiya/dp/B001BHGHHG

This guy says he bought a set off ebay for 27 US shipped.

I like the looks of those tires. That whole video was good. One of the better ones for mods to these trucks I've seen.

Dadio wrote: ↑Fri Mar 15, 2019 10:17 am

kennyrach wrote: ↑Fri Mar 15, 2019 9:29 am Basher67
These are tire i on my truck
AUSTAR
AX-5020 1.9 Inch 120mm Rock Crawler Tires for 1/10 RC Car
Cost only $22.00 shipped

What mfg and model of tire on your truck

So you stretched 1.9 in tyres onto the stock 2.2 in rims ?

https://youtu.be/mRD8r3P5LyM

Today i installed the working winch
It winds up or out of the wire cable, allowing you to tow objects or another RC car stuck in the mud.
Completely simulate the performance of real cars.
This winch offers ultra scale looks, superior quality and craftsmanship.
Item Type: Crawler Winch & Controller & Wireless Receiver.
Winch Size: 6cm x 2.9cm x 2.3cm/2.36" x 1.14" x 0.91" (Approx.)

https://www.amazon.com/heaven2017-Automatic-Controller-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B07LF28G5S/ref=sr_1_10?hvadid=241932709900&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1022835&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1714726484448613851&hvtargid=kwd-270281945721&keywords=1%2F10+rc+winch&qid=1553256202&s=gateway&sr=8-10&tag=googhydr-20






Also taking gear box apart and fiie down gear teeth point

kennyrach wrote: ↑Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:23 am Today i installed the working winch
https://www.amazon.com/heaven2017-Automatic-Controller-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B07LF28G5S/ref=sr_1_10?
Also taking gear box apart and fiie down gear teeth point

That's a really nice winch. Maybe you could update and tell us how it works. I'd like to install one on my rig.
Won't removing material from the gears weaken them?

Here a video testing power and Wireless Remote Receiver control
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVBGGn8pqfk

Are you chamfering the edges of the gears where they interlock for gear changes ?

Not always. If you have gears or any type of metal with hard sharp edges, you create a stress riser. Sanding down or softening edges can make parts stronger . In this case, the gears might be engaging poorly due to tooth shape. softening the edge might make a better engagement. That's just my guess however.

You might be right Joe.
Polishing the gear to eliminate stress risers is one thing but I guess I've interpreted his comment to mean that he's going to "file" the tooth "point" (or crest) and doing that alone won't loosen the gear mesh (if that's the objective) and, if taken to the extreme, could cause the gear to fail.
Maybe he'll post another update soon and tell us what he's up to.

jwscab wrote: ↑Fri Mar 22, 2019 6:16 pm Not always. If you have gears or any type of metal with hard sharp edges, you create a stress riser. Sanding down or softening edges can make parts stronger . In this case, the gears might be engaging poorly due to tooth shape. softening the edge might make a better engagement. That's just my guess however.

You hit on the nail it also help gear lube move better too

Flie down the point edges of gear help gear to be able to withstand the stresses which are put against it.
When it doesn’t withstand the stress, it failscan make Bending load parts work more free stronger

When the shafts and gear become misaligned, e.g. while deflecting under load, that general area will be
particularly stressed, and relatively likely to fail in fatigue, throwing a chip that will eventually find its way into the mesh and destroy the gears.
Better to remove it preemptively.

The next car or truck i do i will take picture of it
I been doing this for model train and all my rc for 40 year sometime i even shave gear case out for more room

Thanks for the explanation, kennyrach.
It appears that the 2nd gear set could be most prone to fail due to deflection. Both gear clusters runs on 5mm shafts and, referring to the schematic below, both shafts are supported by bearings only at each end. Notice that the 2nd gear resides very near the middle of the top shaft. To make matters worse, the shafts are drilled for 2mm cross-pins at multiple locations.

First run after transmission work done .Run with Ovonic 11.1V 2200mAh 3S 50C Lipo Battery .Good run time to got 15 min run on charge https://youtu.be/mUVEOv_De5Q