RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

marlo wrote:

badhoopty wrote:

gomachv wrote:Problem is the manual would have been so bastardized with supplements and new pics of the different parts it probably would have been pretty bad. I remember towards the end of the champ cars every single bag had supplements.

new manual is most definitely better for clearly showing how to build this thing. but you cant argue the old one had a hell of alot more character and charm.

same goes with the old 'how to tune your rc10gt' vhs tape.

I have that GT VHS tape, but no VHS machine to play it I love those supplements in the "late" kits also , I actually collect them

Hey I have that tape as well...I am sure it is on Youtube somewhere? If not maybe we can make that happen!

-Joe

I still got a VHS machine in working order

SnoopMaxx wrote:I still got a VHS machine in working order

I have one on my desk that is setup specifically to convert from VHS to Digital.

Before I order, check me on my re-re planning. I will be adding the bellcrank steering once Tower gets it in stock and I'm doing the outdrive mod on the trans case.

6-gear trans
5) 3/16 x 5/16 flanged
2) 3/16 x 5/16 plain
1) 1/4 x 3/8 flanged

Front wheels
(4) 3/16 x 5/16 flanged

Outdrive bearings for trans
2) 3/8 x 5/8 plain

Rear hubs and bellcrank steering
(8) 1/4 x 3/8 flanged

Can anyone confirm?

Looks right to me. Had to go to page 149 to confirm the steering bell-crank bearing size....

THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... Ya i had 5 thick aluminum washers under both and the body post still didn't come through the body. Oh well all fixed now with the longer body posts.

If only there was a way to let the body sit lower.. Maybe your chassis needs a trip to the doctor. Dr. Emel will fix it right up! !/4" should do the trick!

That front body post has always made me shape my head.. having it angled back like that and then the angle of the nose sloping down towards the front.. never the best fitting design.

Chris

I've sure made a mess of bodies in the past drilling that hole. The last one I did worked well; try removing the body post and shove something pointy up through the mounting hole (from the bottom) STRAIGHT into the body (while holding the body down in position) to make a mark. if you enlarge from there, your hole might be close.

has anyone asked about the #6304 nose plate? there's no picture of it on their site. maybe it's the factory cut nose plate?

This is bugging me some. The chassis was predrilled for the stealth transmission. Was the transmission brace also made for the stealth?

DMAT wrote:This is bugging me some. The chassis was predrilled for the stealth transmission. Was the transmission brace also made for the stealth?

No, the included transmission brace is only for the 6-gear. You will need #6325 for the Stealth.

SteveK wrote:

DMAT wrote:This is bugging me some. The chassis was predrilled for the stealth transmission. Was the transmission brace also made for the stealth?

No, the included transmission brace is only for the 6-gear. You will need #6325 for the Stealth.

this sounds like poor planning on AE part then. all the new asc6325 i've seen are the black color while the rest of the car is white.

why would you want a re-release of a short arm 6 gear car with a stealth ready trans brace? it's bad enough the chassis is already like that because guys out there can't handle using a frigging drill. but at least those holes are on the bottom.

and someone can correct me if i'm wrong, being as though it's been 20+ years since i opened one, but i do believe in the original stealth trans kits (trans only) they came with a stealth brace. maybe the new one will too. if not, oh well......

I can't believe all the complaining surrounding this kit. It sounds like a bunch of damn 12 year old kids. Even back in '84 the kit needed substantial work to make it right. I recall building mine and being disappointed in its performance. It wasn't until I busted it back apart and reamed all the suspension pivot holes and added bearings then it started to perform like it was designed to. If the holes aren't fully countersinked then run. 100 degree countersink in them. Consider it a gift that Associated even rere'd the buggy.

Of course it is very easy to drill a chassis and make it look like a hacked DIY bodge. But you will never get perfectly countersunk holes using a hand drill and regular drill bits. Not a chance. If you are OCD then it will have to be done properly or not at all. Btw, I've built an 1/8th buggy out of alloy from scratch using hand tools and an old fashioned milling machine while at school (a life time ago). These days I want things to be perfect, not just fine or ok.