RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

HI!... I picked up my RC10 Classic around noon today. I've already assembled it. No real issues. I swapped out all the oilite bushings with ball bearings. All my holes were countersunk and the rear of the chassis was not bent up weird. Lol. The kit went together pretty good. The one issue im having is that the body posts are WAY too short. Like im talking a 1/2 inch short. There no where near close to be coming up through the body. I have longer ones that are new in my RC10 spares so thats what im going to use. Anyone else have this issue. I took a ton of pics during the build. I'll be making a build thread as soon as my laptop is up and running again. Hopefully going to be painting the body tomorrow.

I usually run about 3-4 thick washers under the front and sometimes 1-2 in the rear with a protech body

HI!... Ya i had 5 thick aluminum washers under both and the body post still didn't come through the body. Oh well all fixed now with the longer body posts.

RC10th wrote:It costs more to make a manual the old fashioned way.

I'd also take the new manual over one with Chinese hands or chicks hands assembling it and poor chinglish.

I guess all they really had to do was scan and reprint the old manual (with included suppliments of course)

You are exactly correct! Re-creating a manual the old fashion way is much core time consuming and costly. Additionally, I will say there are benefits to the CAD model based manuals in that the exploded assemblies are much clearer than just some photos with Gene Husting's finger pointing at parts! lol

And lets face it most people hate reading these days anyways, people want pictures! Hobbyist now days are not the same as hobbyists of 30 years ago!

THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... Ya i had 5 thick aluminum washers under both and the body post still didn't come through the body. Oh well all fixed now with the longer body posts.

You you referring to the body post that cam in the Worlds car, when you are referring to short body posts? Because the kit does come with the 'long' body posts. The newer protech body does have a tighter fit than the original protech body if that happens to be the problem?

Otherwise I would double check to make sure that the back lip of the body (after the cab area) isn't hung up on the shock tower. That can sometimes happen if you are not careful, causing the body to sit up a little higher.

SteveK wrote:My plan, at this point, is to use the kit decals, but not the box art paint scheme.

Mine,if i get to build it, would be box art scheme with the stickers painted by a pro...

So I have this young gun I met up here at Ft. Drum. Cali kid and loves racing. So involved him into serious RC racing. He came over last night for a visit so I broke out the RC10s and gave him a brief history lesson. Then showed him some of the builds on the Re Re thread here. Kid actually said, I'd be afraid of putting that kit together. That's the problem these days with these dang RTRs. Kid can drive but can't wrench, I have to fix his stuff on a regular basis. I'm just happy it's in kit form!!!

HI!... Well got the chassis 100% complete. Body has just been painted. Should be dry tomorrow. Then i just have to apply the decals and mount the 4 headlights. I'm going to have to order another driver. I accidentally stepped on it and crushed/split it. Well at least their cheap! Lol. I think i might have a original driver around here somewhere though.

badhoopty wrote:my only complaint is the manual... it is more universal but there was some soul in the writing and images. stuff like mentioning a sandwich...

AE has to be careful about the sandwich thing nowadays , they could get sued if someone were to gain any weight while building the car and eating because is says to in the instructions!

Patiofurnituregt wrote:

TheSpeedway wrote:My 2nd one arrived last night. Its in the shop with the first one that is close to complete on assembly.

Right before heading in last night I hung the front shocks which only have 1 mounting hole in the shock tower unlike the original 2. It appears that the shock tower will have to be drilled with the 2nd set of holes of the original as the spring cup binds on the A arm and restricts travel. Have enough of these been built that anyone else has noticed this yet?

Is the shock-end pivot ball placed in the arm backwards? They are directional, and if install backwards would cause more binding.

Yes that was this issue. The illustration on the current instructions is incorrect. I pulled out my Edinger and checked it for front travel as well as the instructions for it and a Cadillac manual.

One more discovery is that rear shocks as assembled have too much travel that will bind the rear driveline on full droop. In the Cadillac manual they have you install a 5/8s section of 1/8 silicone fuel tubing on the shock shaft up against the piston as an internal down stop.

The 1st kit is now a complete rolling chassis. This one doesn't have the 2nd set of holes in the front shock tower so it sits very low in the front. I will be assembling the 2nd kit today and will add the lower set of holes in the shock tower to make it just like my Edinger.

Its been fun and I don't see any quality issues. Im glad to have these kits.

HI!... Ok body is dry but i find the Tamiya PS-19 Camel yellow to be a bit bright of a orange. I would like to darken it a bit. Can i spray dark grey or even black on top of the bright orange to darken it a bit? I usually back spray my bodies in white but i'm afraid that will brighten it up even more.

Johnboy72 wrote:So I have this young gun I met up here at Ft. Drum. Cali kid and loves racing. So involved him into serious RC racing. He came over last night for a visit so I broke out the RC10s and gave him a brief history lesson. Then showed him some of the builds on the Re Re thread here. Kid actually said, I'd be afraid of putting that kit together. That's the problem these days with these dang RTRs. Kid can drive but can't wrench, I have to fix his stuff on a regular basis. I'm just happy it's in kit form!!!

Tell him that sometimes, being afraid of doing something is the best reason to do it. And it's not like we're talking about climbing Kilimanjaro here; it's four pounds of plastic and aluminum. That shouldn't scare anybody.

THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... Ok body is dry but i find the Tamiya PS-19 Camel yellow to be a bit bright of a orange. I would like to darken it a bit. Can i spray dark grey or even black on top of the bright orange to darken it a bit? I usually back spray my bodies in white but i'm afraid that will brighten it up even more.

try it on a piece of scrap lexan to see how it turns out, try silver, charcoal, black...

gomachv wrote:Problem is the manual would have been so bastardized with supplements and new pics of the different parts it probably would have been pretty bad. I remember towards the end of the champ cars every single bag had supplements.

new manual is most definitely better for clearly showing how to build this thing. but you cant argue the old one had a hell of alot more character and charm.

same goes with the old 'how to tune your rc10gt' vhs tape.

badhoopty wrote:

gomachv wrote:Problem is the manual would have been so bastardized with supplements and new pics of the different parts it probably would have been pretty bad. I remember towards the end of the champ cars every single bag had supplements.

new manual is most definitely better for clearly showing how to build this thing. but you cant argue the old one had a hell of alot more character and charm.

same goes with the old 'how to tune your rc10gt' vhs tape.

I have that GT VHS tape, but no VHS machine to play it I love those supplements in the "late" kits also , I actually collect them