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Probably not the right question for this thread but, what's the best way to un whiten parts. I have a couple of white parts that don't match, aside from whitening the rest, can I get the hydro white ones a little more of a natural off white...

I don't know for sure but if you rub in some kind of lightweight oil on them it might match them up...

Todd

I wondered when someone was going to ask this. Pretty simple method really, (I had to do this trick to my linen suit for my wedding, as they could only make it with snow white linen) anyway- make a pot of weak hot tea, and simmer your over-peroxided parts, checking frequently until the proper color match is achieved.

Interesting method, I may try that on some runner parts first . Thanks Guys

Is it Ok to drink the tea afterwards? I hate to be wasteful


Lol but seriously....that's a great idea. Have to try that if I ever need to add patina

Have my parts in a pyrex casserole dish with aluminum foil taped to the underside of the glass. I am using clear packing tape for covering the parts since I am out of cling wrap.. Baking in the sun now.. I can already see a difference.. Last night the parts got a few hours but the sun is blazing today and I've got lots of bubbles and heat going!

Has anyone tried the new "white" ball cups.

Thought I would share my failures with you. I have been experimenting with peroxide for the better part of 2 years now. Caution must be taken with certain parts. For those of you who have had positive results, no need to worry. Areas such as the 2 unused holes in an RC10 rear bulkhead, caution must be taken to detox the part in the warm water after the peroxide bath. Once the bulkhead is submerged in water the pockets get trapped with air and leaving peroxide inside. I found that with a cut cotton swap, popping the air bubbles once submerged in water released all chemicals. Fortunately my lesson was learned as it was mounted on a common late B-stamped chassis (black) which caused anodizing damage. I have had the same bulkhead that caused the damage now mounted on another chassis (being inspected for a year now), no damage.

I have a question that someone here might know the answer to. If hydrogen peroxide whitens parts, but leaves anno'ed finishes subject to damage, will acetone ( that also whitens ) damage anno'ed finishes?

Acetone should have no effect on anodizing. Anodizing is a pretty tough coating, you need a harsh chemical like oven cleaner to remove it.

Alkaline solutions will degrade anodizing. Sodium hydroxide(lye) is the active ingredient in many oven cleaners and is really good at stripping anodizing. Solvent have no real effect on anodizing but may remove the colorant(dye).

I had really good results whitening suspension arms for a build but I've struggled with a stealth tranny case. After whitening there are sections on it that look 'chalky', kind of like hard water deposits. I have tried simmering in distilled water trying to re-hydrate the nylon but that hasn't done it. I've kind of given up and installed it on the car, it looks ok from a distance but not so much up close. Anybody seen this and fixed it somehow?

I have seen it but not sure how to fix it
Buffing tip on a Dremel - slow speed with some plastic polish

Again, can someone post up their UV light source they are using?