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it's hard to believe it's been over 3 years since paul and i hashed out this "old is new" idea. i'm sure chad at dynotech was pleased with how many set of those klein arms he sold.

but i think it's about time someone comes up with something else. old is new is starting to just get old.

who wants to take on the development of a "new to old" b4 build? a short arm b4 with jelly bean rims and big 'ol knobby tires. gold ano'd shocks, and a protech body. see where i'm going........

scr8p wrote:it's hard to believe it's been over 3 years since paul and i hashed out this "old is new" idea. i'm sure chad at dynotech was pleased with how many set of those klein arms he sold.

but i think it's about time someone comes up with something else. old is new is starting to just get old.

who wants to take on the development of a "new to old" b4 build? a short arm b4 with jelly bean rims and big 'ol knobby tires. gold ano'd shocks, and a protech body. see where i'm going........

I love it! I'm pretty sure I have most of a B4 roller around here that would be a good starting point...

Maybe call it the "B4 the after" build.

i can almost guarantee it won't have the following as the old is new stuff.

to be honest, it's not so much that the old is new builds are getting old. it's more the fact that no one really deviated from the parts list. yes, there was a few guys that went the stock rear arm/b4 hub route. but that's really the only 2 versions.

i can't remember who it was, but there was only one guy that took the concept, and used losi xx or xxx rear arms.

Are the dynotech arms similar to the RPM arms? They look very similar other than the colour.

RC104ever wrote:Thanks - I did read through the posts and found that it did answer some of my questions, but I guess I'm looking for some specifics.

RC104ever wrote:Are the dynotech arms similar to the RPM arms? They look very similar other than the colour.

time to re-read thread.

hint: first post, page 13.

scr8p wrote:

RC104ever wrote:Thanks - I did read through the posts and found that it did answer some of my questions, but I guess I'm looking for some specifics.

RC104ever wrote:Are the dynotech arms similar to the RPM arms? They look very similar other than the colour.

time to re-read thread.

hint: first post, page 13.

Wait, what-?

scr8p wrote:

RC104ever wrote:Thanks - I did read through the posts and found that it did answer some of my questions, but I guess I'm looking for some specifics.

RC104ever wrote:Are the dynotech arms similar to the RPM arms? They look very similar other than the colour.

time to re-read thread.

hint: first post, page 13.

Oops, sorry my bad! Thanks

Stunning!

scr8p wrote:i can almost guarantee it won't have the following as the old is new stuff.

to be honest, it's not so much that the old is new builds are getting old. it's more the fact that no one really deviated from the parts list. yes, there was a few guys that went the stock rear arm/b4 hub route. but that's really the only 2 versions.

i can't remember who it was, but there was only one guy that took the concept, and used losi xx or xxx rear arms.

I've been playing around with other options. The Losi JRX-Pro SE front arms have the same offset as the RPM world's arms but are ever so slightly longer. When you use them with the RC10B4 front caster blocks and steering hubs, the wheel offset works out perfectly when using B4 rims. No need to run wide axles. The RC10T front bulkhead needs to be filed down a bit to clear the arms though. I am also retrofitting some Schumacher big bore shocks on the car right now. The front of my car is turning into a Frankenstein combination of parts. In the end I would rather have an all Associated car and am playing with other options just for the fun of it but I already had these parts lying around to try and just thought it was a neat combination.

So I just re-read the entire thread - hopefully I didn't miss anything but one thing that I didn't see was anyone trying to use the stock rear axles and the new JC Racing 2.2" wheels and some kind of CVD.

I ask because this is where I'm currently stuck. I bought 3 sets of these wheels (one in each colour, lol) and I also bought the MIP RC10 CVD kit from Tower. Unfortunately, the CVD's are too short to use with my Stealth tranny and they keep popping out of the outdrives.

I think the B4 CVD's would work, but they seem to be too long (tested at LHS). I really want to keep those stock rear axles if possible. I have the RPM rear arms as well.

Any input / suggestions would be welcome!

RC104ever wrote:So I just re-read the entire thread - hopefully I didn't miss anything but one thing that I didn't see was anyone trying to use the stock rear axles and the new JC Racing 2.2" wheels and some kind of CVD.

I ask because this is where I'm currently stuck. I bought 3 sets of these wheels (one in each colour, lol) and I also bought the MIP RC10 CVD kit from Tower. Unfortunately, the CVD's are too short to use with my Stealth tranny and they keep popping out of the outdrives.

I think the B4 CVD's would work, but they seem to be too long (tested at LHS). I really want to keep those stock rear axles if possible. I have the RPM rear arms as well.

Any input / suggestions would be welcome!

If you are using the JC wheels that are for the RC10 (not the ones for the B4), the offset is such that you can use the stock rear arms. Then you can just use the entire MIP CVD kit.

aeiou wrote: If you are using the JC wheels that are for the RC10 (not the ones for the B4), the offset is such that you can use the stock rear arms. Then you can just use the entire MIP CVD kit.

I am using the RC10 JC Racing wheels that fit the original axles / offset etc. I figured the MIP CVD kit would work, and although it does fit, the issue is that the dog bones are too short to work properly with the stealth tranny, unless I do something with the shocks to keep the rear arms at a certain height.

Isn't there a way to extend the dog bones?

You could always cut them and braze a piece in the middle to get the length you're looking for. But there's gotta be a length of CVD bone that makes that work. How much more length do you need?









(Yeah I know THUMB, *loaded* question... )

adam lancia wrote:You could always cut them and braze a piece in the middle to get the length you're looking for. But there's gotta be a length of CVD bone that makes that work. How much more length do you need?

(Yeah I know THUMB, *loaded* question... )

I need about 1/4" more roughly, maybe could get away with 1/2" but how do you braze a piece in? I remember reading it here somewhere.

Which rear hubs are you using?