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Last night, I printed a dashboard for a CJ-7 bodyshell... I wanted to check it properly : I have one bodyshell to repair in this specific area while another will require a dashboard because it has none.


The result is actually better than what I expected (Printed with layer at 0.2mm thickness)... And when it place it's even better : it's a perfect match in every point from the first print.


Next : check the CJ-7 windshield.

Indeed, I may go for a review of the Land Cruiser and CJ-7 bodyshell so I can put next to the Mitsubishi Jeep bodysell on Cults3D...

silvertriple wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2023 2:17 pm Last night, I printed a dashboard for a CJ-7 bodyshell... I wanted to check it properly : I have one bodyshell to repair in this specific area while another will require a dashboard because it has none.


The result is actually better than what I expected (Printed with layer at 0.2mm thickness)... And when it place it's even better : it's a perfect match in every point from the first print.


Next : check the CJ-7 windshield.

Indeed, I may go for a review of the Land Cruiser and CJ-7 bodyshell so I can put next to the Mitsubishi Jeep bodysell on Cults3D...

You nailed that ! The fit on the floor is flawless , well done

Dadio wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2023 3:49 pm You nailed that ! The fit on the floor is flawless , well done

Thanks... That's not all the time the match is that good... On the other side, the part while complex to define is fairly easy to measure... And considering that I started from the body shell, and not from this part itself, I have quite good confidence that the difficult part on the CJ-7 bodyshell is good as well... I will review the bodyshell itself. While working on the Mitsubishi Jeep, I noted a few elements to ensure it is fitting the chassis correctly.

It's no secret I love Marui and Super Wheelies... One was missing, and I got lucky this week. I found one in not so bad state... And here is with 2 cars of the family... The two missing one are still in parts, awaiting some reparation for the white Toyota and rebuild for the White CJ-7 (and probably paint).




The blue Toyota will require some work as she is not perfect, but i'm not too much concern, because I know there won't be an issue to get there. To get the complete family in one single picture, there is still some work to do with one of the Coors and the Shogun to rebuild

My friend Johann from Down Under, sent me some pictures today about what he is trying to do... And he precise there is still some work on the graphics, and it is just a V1 as here is still some pixellisation here and there on the graphics...



His target is to reproduce the box and all the inside including what requires somevacform to make his own NIB

I love his work already

silvertriple wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 1:04 pm My friend Johann from Down Under, sent me some pictures today about what he is trying to do... And he precise there is still some work on the graphics, and it is just a V1 as here is still some pixellisation here and there on the graphics...



His target is to reproduce the box and all the inside including what requires somevacform to make his own NIB

I love his work already

That's just one step beyond ! Love it

Dadio wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 3:36 pm

silvertriple wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 1:04 pm My friend Johann from Down Under, sent me some pictures today about what he is trying to do... And he precise there is still some work on the graphics, and it is just a V1 as here is still some pixellisation here and there on the graphics...



His target is to reproduce the box and all the inside including what requires somevacform to make his own NIB

I love his work already

That's just one step beyond ! Love it

I'll have to transmit this to him. He posted the pics on Tamiyaclub and Tamiyabase and told me I could reuse them in other forums... He already made the stickers, and that was already some labour of love, but this is clearly something unique

My friend Johann told me yesterday he was trying to print the Mitsubishi Jeep bodyshell using his FDM printer. He did some vertical cut at the front and the rear, and this morning he sent me the results. The main part was oriented 45° from the bed, and the result are quite good. but to me the front and rear could be better... He printed it in PLA, but his real intention was to print in ABS, as easy to rework... On my side, I still needed to work this out. I decided to allocate some time this afternoon...

I first put down some dimensions and some 45° cuts at the front and rear. Those should give a good finish in the visible area, require less supports, and I had some idea how to increase bed surface for better print adhesion and part stability...


I then added some elements to allow the contact between the splitted parts...



Once down, I did load the stl in the slicer to see what it would give...



Looking at previous results with similar 45° prints, I have quite a good confidence that this will work. I will launch a test at some point within next week to confirm the results before uploading the files in the Mitsubishi Jeep Bodyshell publication

For the sake of giving more printing possibilities, I made a second version of the splitted bodyshell to adapt it to 180x180x180 beds

I launched the print while at my parents' place yesterday morning and had an eye on it once in a while during the day. It looked promising.

The print was still in progress when I went to sleep, and it was expected to last until 1:30 in the morning... The first check I did was to open the bamvu app to check the print status : the printer was offline. And apparently my starling was off the grid around 1, about 30 minutes before the print was supposed to end.

I went for the breakfast, and later on received a notification that there was power outage and that if parts are still on the plate, I can click resume. I did after a quick check on the video, assuming that in the worst case, I would have to reprint the main part... 28 minutes before the end of the print.


The print resumed and it seems fine, but I'll be able to see that in details only later in the afternoon...

Fingers crossed for you .

I have no intention to let anyone wait more about the results... The spare wheel is cracked out of the box (i'll include a picture later of the box) but this is not too much of a concern...


I quickly remove the supports...


And proceeded to the assembly...



The print has 2 issues :
1. the spare wheel due to the power outage...

2. the logo which is not readable. The print was in layer height of 0.2, which surely doesn't help. With a 0.2 nozzle and lower layer hight, there is ways to do better.


At the end the split is validated, and a print in PETG tells me it should be printable in other materials quite easily...

Very nice , pity about the power outage but beyond your control and can be easily hidden as its only on a small part of the print , would have been far worse a few hours earlier !

Dadio wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2024 1:36 pm Very nice , pity about the power outage but beyond your control and can be easily hidden as its only on a small part of the print , would have been far worse a few hours earlier !

As said, that's ok... The objective of printing one body was to check it was possible on a FDM printer with the split approach with satisfactory results...

I printed a dashbord and windshield as well for the FDM splitted body... The Windshield was super easy to get nicely. For the dashboard, FDM is a nightmare : whatever orientation you will use will make the things difficult with lot of support to remove. But the result is not bad...


Here is the body. I may have to print the roll cage to go on top of it, now


But that's not all. With the printed Hunter parts, I also ordered a resin print for the Mitsubishi Jeep body : I had to see by myself if possible, as some people asked me about it. For the science, I got one. And... It's really nice...

The Mitsubishi logo is clear and readable (but not easy to see on the picture - we will have to wait for the paint)

Not much to say, beside the fact that for the paint, almost no sanding will be required, primer could be applied directly after degreasing...

The dashboard also looks nice and very detailed (again, paint will be required to really show on pictures)


The resin used was Light Green 8228 resin, as it is tough and with good dimensional stability. There might be a bit of warping on the rear side with one side lower than the second one but nothing really major, and I'm very happy with the result. This confirm feasibility for the resin print, at a lower cost than the MJF or SLS options...