RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

slow_jun wrote:Hi All,

Happy new year to all, this is a nice thread and place for us oldies but goodies racer who have an RC10. Mine is an RC10 graphite Stealth car. i'm planning to put it into race condition and after reading thru most of the thread im a bit confuse on some of the parts being used? Like for the RPM front and rear suspension arms , is the Klein used is the same length as the one below?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU95&P=7 RPM RC10 Rear Arms
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAF4&P=M RPM RC10 Front Arms


Also for the Rear 10T Bulkhead Front Shock tower (for long Shocks) and also Rear Shock tower (graphite), where can i purchase this items as i cant find it in Tower? can you post the complete lists of parts used to upgrade RC10 to use B4 (modern Rims),CVD, Arms, with exact link to Towerhobbies? so that i would not miss out or buy the incorrect one.

I already have the link for the Stealth tranny conversion for B4 double slipper but seem to cannot find the link for 10T parts lists and links and other RPM Wide world ARMS (rear/front)???? hope you guys can help me.

Thanks in advance.

The RPM arms that are for sale through tower are the same (dimensionally speaking) as the stock arms that would be on a stealth car such as yours. The dynotech arms people are refering to are the same (dimensionally speaking again) as the RPM "worlds" arms. As far as a complete list of parts to run B4 rims on an early car the only proper way to do it is as described in this thread, with the Dynotech arms, 10T front bulkhead and kickup, etc. I'll try to put together a list for you though.

Okay, this I think is a pretty comprehensive list of how to do the Klein arm conversion. if anyone else has anything to ad post it up!

http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2700 Rear X2
http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2701 Front X2
http://www.avidrc.com/product/?c=0&p=102 Rear hub bearings x4
http://www.avidrc.com/product/?c=9&p=48 Front wheel bearings x4
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU81 RPM GT Carriers 70272
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSYV7 Associated Rear CVA Kit B44
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAH8&P=Z Associated wheel spacers
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYT2&P=7 Associated wide front axles
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAK8&P=SM Associated rear wheels
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAK7&P=SM Associated front wheels
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2914&P=7 Associated truck bulkhead
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2964&P=SM Associated shock tower
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2585&P=SM Associated 1.02 shocks
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBVF8&P=7 Associated front springs
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2929&P=M Associated truck nose tubes
(these need to be shortened and redrilled for the correct wheelbase)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTHT3&P=7 Dubro turnbuckles (x3 these need to be cut to length but is the cheap way to go, also good to use to determine length if you want to use titanium in the future

You will also need a truck front nose plate, these are no longer in production but are easy to find in the BST section or aftermarket ones are very plentiful on ebay like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Alloy-Front-Nose-Plate-Bumper-Fits-RC10GT-RC10_W0QQitemZ190311126494QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c4f6d55de

There are other ways around it, but that is a pretty comprehensive parts list, it can be done pretty cheap (realatively speaking) if you get parts and help from members here, and scour ebay. If you want the slammed body look with the cut down chassis then you need to make your own rear shock tower or find a 10T rear tower which is no longer available from associated, but are still easy to find on ebay.

The assembly is very straight forward, Like mentioned above, you need to cut the nose tubes and redrill them so they work with the nose plate in the short wheelbase position, if you opt not to do this it will still work but the steering geometry will not be correct. It's good to have a dremel on hand as a couple parts may need a small tune up to fit perfectly, it's also a good idea to have a .126" chucking ream on hand to ensure a perfect fit of your hinge pins, those can be found at mcmaster carr for cheap http://www.mcmaster.com/#3087a31/=57tbxg hope this all helps those wanting to do the conversion!

That is a great list of parts! I spent what felt like hours, reading all the "What was old is new" threads to get the correct parts.

Ed

I think it only took me about 15 minutes, it was really fresh in my head as I just built mine.

Thanks PBR Allstar,

i will check this when i get home, BTW i have a RC10 Graphite not the Tub type, i'm not sure about the nose portion thing that was mentioned. I'm still learning the stuff that are being mentioned here. Its been 20yrs since i last gotten hold of my RC10

you guys are great...

slow_jun wrote:Thanks PBR Allstar,

i will check this when i get home, BTW i have a RC10 Graphite not the Tub type, i'm not sure about the nose portion thing that was mentioned. I'm still learning the stuff that are being mentioned here. Its been 20yrs since i last gotten hold of my RC10

you guys are great...

You can do it with a graphite chassis, you will need to narrow the nose section and drill holes for the truck bulkhead.

Alternatively, if you're just wanting to run modern 2.2" tires, save all this hassle and just buy the duratrax wheels from tower. there is plenty of info stickied on that topic in Temples Tech forum.

Your buggy is awsome and I have used a ton of info off your thread and thanks for your help with all the links.

MOmo wrote:So for my car (graphite RC10) I swapped the suspension components over from a B4 roller.

Here is what I have:
-RC10 Graphite
-3 degree arm mounts rear
-B4 steering knuckles/ B4 rear hubs / b4 CVDs
-RPM "wide" replacement arms (not the worlds length)
-RPM Wide Rear

I've found:
-the B4 CVDs bind slightly on one side when shock is compressed
-The Turnbuckles are slightly longer
-The wheels fit w/o interference


Im still trying to finish this project. I'll try and get pics up of my progress.


MOmo

Hi Momo,

can you show your RC10 Grapghite?i also have a similar car and would want to trasform to a decent racer, I already converted my Tranny to B4 Slipper and just waiting for parts for the Klien arms and B44 CVD. just want to get an idea if i should cut my chassis to accomodate the long Klein Arms. still hesistang to Cut such rare Car Chassis. if you car setup is ok i might just stick with the graphite ( no cutting for the GT Truck front bulkhead) and use RPM Arms.

Thansk,

Just got my Klein Arms, just waiting for the other parts to arrive. I Think i'm still a long way to go but already change my slipper set up to B4.

Anyway have a questions though, would the stock Hinge Pins (Front/rear) needs to be replaced by RC10T hinge pins? i saw this somewhere here that it needs also to be replaced. Need to verify.

Can anyone show me a picture of a Graphite Chassis with the nose section cut off? (narrowed) so that i would have an idea how much of the chassis i need to shred to accomodate the RC10T Front bulkhead.

If I use the RC10T front bulkhead and Shock tower, do i need also to put the noseTube for support if im using graphite chassis, coz ive been checking for pic and i dont see anyone who has done this , using RC10T front bulkhead with an installed Nose tubing while using Graphite Chassis? all i see are Tubies or using worlds front bulkhead. Any ideas and pictures would really help. would the modified kick -up handle to horrible 3ple jumps?and not break?

Thanks,

Jun, kamusta? I can answer the last Q, you won't need the tubing. It only works with tub chassis, since there's nowhere to mount it on to a graphite (AE) one.

slow_jun wrote:Can anyone show me a picture of a Graphite Chassis with the nose section cut off? (narrowed) so that i would have an idea how much of the chassis i need to shred to accomodate the RC10T Front bulkhead.

Check out Scr8p's car on this thread. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=10403


ED

here is a pic of nose tube mounts for the graphite chassis

Vintage AE - exactly what i need, any more bottom veiw pics? i need to base where to start to cut the front kink up. would you happen to know the part number of that nose tube and nose tube post/mount (dunno whats its called ), and also Links to tower.... if any...

Scr8p - was this a modified Kick up? seems like its machine cut (perfect).and cant help but noticed , is this composite or Graphite? Sorry I;m not that too knowledgeable on RC10/T.

Checked my RC10 and it seems that it will need a very large modification on the front Kick up, just need to be sure before any dremel kiss my RC10...

Thanks.... Great thread!!!! indeed.

Bimdapogs wrote:Jun, kamusta? I can answer the last Q, you won't need the tubing. It only works with tub chassis, since there's nowhere to mount it on to a graphite (AE) one.

Bimdapogs,

oks lang, Thanks. when i was running thru the cutting stuff inside my head, seems that it wont be able to handle such bad landings from the track i will run my runner. Thanks to all..... slowly putting the pieces with the inputs and pictures here...

cheers from a Newbie.!!!!