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Got the front shock pins. Put (2) sets of Bolink front tires on the chassis, for matching OD. TDP front wheels will be 0.75" wide, the Bolink wheels are 1.15" wide, but it's similar enough to get started.








Chrome paint will be here soon for the knockoffs. The Liquid Chrome pens can leave bare spots due to the angles the pen tip can't reach, and it leaves marks in the texture also, hope the paint is better.

Reference pics of the actual movie car, for this page.
























The Dead Pool RC Corvette chase scene.


Car #1

Can you guess which is the paint, and which is the pen - both are 40th knockoffs.


That's Rustoleum Chrome, excellent coverage and texture. The Liquid Chrome pens on the right, are shinier, more like chrome, but the texture is so bad, gets little bubbles in it that harden.

The Jenolite spray chrome will be here on Tuesday, I'll see if it has a brighter more mirror-like finish than the Rustoleum. The best of the spray will go on the NOS vintage knockoffs - that are in the mail.

Got the black AE nylon steering nuts, rather than dye white ones.


Completely dry, painted knockoffs, No flash - fluorescent lamp.


Flash.


Hope the Jenolite spray chrome is smooth and mirror finish, or a combination of the two best qualities in the pics above, it will be here tomorrow, and I'll test it on the smaller front knockoff's.

Time to get serious about the body and the kydex/velcro mounts. Getting the body to sit and look right has taken me weeks to months on other projects, no exaggeration, and this one has no wheel well cut lines. Having a second test body to hack on, takes the pressure off.

This “Spaz Stix” chrome I used for a bumper is pretty reflective even on the painted side. The label is lost and gone but looking at the bottom of the cans I’m 99% sure it’s a Spaz Stix product.

romulus22 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 03, 2024 9:20 pm This “Spaz Stix” chrome I used for a bumper is pretty reflective even on the painted side. The label is lost and gone but looking at the bottom of the cans I’m 99% sure it’s a Spaz Stix product.

The movie car wheels are a dull aluminum metal color, and then the AE asc6192 chrome knockoffs are bright and mirror like.


I have Alclad II but it's for Lexan, will Spaz Stix work on nylon or hard plastics, like the knockoffs?

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Mon Jun 03, 2024 10:34 pm
I have Alclad II but it's for Lexan, will Spaz Stix work on nylon or hard plastics, like the knockoffs?

To my knowledge I thought polycarbonate paint works good on plastics, but plastics paint on polycarbonate is a nogo.

Just don't clearcoat over the Alclad or it will go dull.

Just like other paint types, PC paint will adhere to almost anything - plastic, wood, metal, etc.
For example, I use PC paint for ABS plastic exterior trim parts when I need a perfect color match to the body shell. PC paint isn't glossy so I will apply clear over these parts so they will better match the body.

That would be pretty sweet to have the bumpers match the knockoffs, in shine and color. I also like the idea of painting the chrome bumpers outside of the lexan to get a different look.

Great to know the possibilities available, I'll be giving this all a test, later this evening hopefully.

Thanks guys!

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Mon Jun 03, 2024 10:34 pm

romulus22 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 03, 2024 9:20 pm This “Spaz Stix” chrome I used for a bumper is pretty reflective even on the painted side. The label is lost and gone but looking at the bottom of the cans I’m 99% sure it’s a Spaz Stix product.

The movie car wheels are a dull aluminum metal color, and then the AE asc6192 chrome knockoffs are bright and mirror like.


I have Alclad II but it's for Lexan, will Spaz Stix work on nylon or hard plastics, like the knockoffs?

It appears that the bumpers in this photo have been foiled. ...and they don't look very nice. Maybe this is due to age.
I've used foil and found that it's actually easy to work with and achieve good results.
But I don't have anything that was foiled 40 years ago so maybe time has taken its toll.

The first car, 1CW0562 - which was rumored to have been run over on the set by a movie crew truck - had the hobby grade foil bumpers on the exterior:


But car #2, or 1LKI623, has the shabby rushed tin foil bumpers.


Since the body I have is not the Parma 63 CV Coupe #10218 body, and I'm using the Bolink 63 body, which has a few more scale accurate details to the '63 vette, I'll be doing this one a bit different. If some day Parma repros the #10218 body, I'd do it exactly like the movie car.

So no foil bumpers, going to use the Alclad II or Spaz Stix to try and get a similar but updated look to the movie car bumpers.

RC10th wrote: ↑Tue Jun 04, 2024 5:12 am Just don't clearcoat over the Alclad or it will go dull.

I have had good luck clearing over Alclad II Lacquer (chrome ALC 107) with Alclad II Lacquer Aqua Gloss Clear (ALC600).
I've used the Aqua Gloss clear to seal and protect several water based polycarbonate paints successfully.
I also have used Aqua Gloss clear over Tamiya PS39 on the interior of a body. The Alclad actually made the PS39 more translucent.

Barbatos Rex video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB9wwCyG1dw


Chuck

I was recommending the Spaz Stix for the knock offs, but if you decide to use it on the bumpers, it’s almost mirror on the outside of the body. I’ll take a picture of the bumper I pictured earlier later, if you would like to see it?

romulus22 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 04, 2024 4:16 pm I was recommending the Spaz Stix for the knock offs, but if you decide to use it on the bumpers, it’s almost mirror on the outside of the body. I’ll take a picture of the bumper I pictured earlier later, if you would like to see it?

Would definitely appreciate seeing the Spaz Stix on the outside of Lexan, if you have a moment. Thanks!




Barbatos Rex liked Alclad II in an older video I watched, but this one from a year ago, he likes Spaz Stix, and Revell Chrome the best. Thinking I need to check out the Revell.

Results at 16:00


Revell Chrome Spray is just over $40 shipped and taxed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/235367411678