RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

gomachv wrote:Anyone find 8-32 100 degree steel screws?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=uck6zy

I haven't tried these myself, but the diagram looks promising.

I read through the thread...the last 10 pages, which is pretty good for me. Anyways, Niki, are you going to be producing a rear bulkhead at anytime?

Our plan was not to make SLS rear bulkhead part available.
As you can see from assembly drawing, together with code "ASC6323 modified" there is also code "CNCRC-007". It's assembly ready CNC-milled version of original #6323.
At the moment I'm not sure is it available or not. We'll have to wait Jake's answer.

having just done putting the bulkhead through a cnc machine, it takes a surprising long time!

A friend of mine has a machine and armed with Nikis 3d drawing I went over and built a solidworks model and proceeded to cut up a bulk head and drill the additional holes for the top deck screws.

the end product looks great, but a hugely time consuming process, so if Jake does offer to make them, it shouldn't come cheap.

ed

Ed nailed the issue with the bulkhead. It is quite complex to machine since the bulkhead has to be setup 4 to 5 times to fully machine. Rught now the best bet is to cut your bulkhead using a variety of dremel and sharp xacto. if you take your time, you can end up with a really nice part that will look great.

Jake

Guys kits are shipping. For those of you who still have not gotten those shipping notifications, I expect all orders to be filled in about 10 more days. I am getting very close to fulfilling all orders on this kit. Don't hesitate to send me an email or PM if you are concerned about the wait period. I have tracked each order individually and ensure you will be kept in the loop on the progress of getting the kit out the door to you.

Jake

Puppy dog face..

Me too ?



Ed

Seabass wrote:Ed nailed the issue with the bulkhead. It is quite complex to machine since the bulkhead has to be setup 4 to 5 times to fully machine. Rught now the best bet is to cut your bulkhead using a variety of dremel and sharp xacto. if you take your time, you can end up with a really nice part that will look great.

Jake

Is it in your plans to offer CNCRC-007 for sale?

My Race option set arrived.
Arms are really good - solid and strong. Hub bearing fit tolerances couldn't be better. Can't wait to get them mounted...
NIX91-Race Front Arms SLS
includes: NIX91-030 Race front suspension arm 2pcs
http://shpws.me/wgyi

NIX91-Race Rear Arms SLS
includes: NIX91-028 and NIX91-029 Race rear suspension arm left and right
http://shpws.me/wgxi

NIX91-Race Rear Arm Mounts SLS
includes:
NIX91-001 Rear arm mounts (1.5deg toe-in/side & 3deg anti-squat)
NIX91-031 Rear arm mounts (3deg toe-in/side & 1deg anti-squat)
NIX91-032 Rear arm mounts (3deg toe-in/side & 2deg anti-squat)
NIX91-033 Rear arm mounts (3deg toe-in/side & 3deg anti-squat)
(Set is not available anymore as race mounts have changed)

NIX63651
Rear hub for RC10 and NIX91.
Uses bearing pack ASC7935+ASC7933+ASC6906.
http://shpws.me/wIcB

Ordered me some parts

I ordered racer arms, those look great Niki!

lee

New classic look hub with big outer bearing and optional camber link hole doesn't look bad on a RC10 either.

I'm definitely going to need to drill some additional front inside camber mount holes. That '91 negative camber gain is pretty aggresive!

Where is the link to the yokomo adaptor for the wheels?

So I mock fitted up my car and wow the bump steer is huge. Any suggestions?

Also, what rear wheel is on Masami's car? Size and part #?