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Jay Dub wrote:It really depends on the track. With the longer upper link, it will give you more forward traction, and less side bite in high grip situations. This combined with a similar front camber gain will give you a more neutral handling car that will loose traction if pushed too hard (instead of traction rolling for example). This relates to something I have explained on other parts of this forum. The whole concept of every adjustment working on a "bell curve" of sorts.
Every adjustment has a maximum/perfect position, and any deviation from that adjustment means you will loose traction/speed/whatever it is you are tuning for. In this instance you could go shorter or longer than the "ideal" length and you would accomplish the same thing -less traction. However, they will react differently and this should be taken into consideration when chosing which option to try.
For example the shorter link, will usually generate more side bite in a high traction situation because it has more camber gain. However it will provide less forward bite, and can make the car loose on power (out of the corner). It is usually more "stable" in the regard that when it breaks loose, it does so less violently.
The shorter link however will allow less chassis roll and keep the car flatter. This is not necessarily a bad option, but usually not the best suited for a LOW traction situation as you are usually trying to find traction.
The shorter link may sound like a good option in high bite situations, but often times it will generate too much traction, and make the car very hard to drive at speed, and may lead to traction rolling.
If you look at most competitive cars today, they have simple but very refined geometries, that use less camber gain they we have been previously used to. This is in part because of modern tires having much more traction that in years past.
The biggest issue I see with this particular rear bracket (and hub assembly) is that in order to get the camber gain in the proper realm, you will need to run the upper link as far in as possible. This is ok, but having your upper links this far in causes the chassis to flatten out on power, and wright itself. This will cause the car to sea-saw back and forth on power in the corner, and make it difficult to hold a line.
This can be effective on a point and shoot track btw (into the corner hard, tight turn, and out of the corner hard), but a real pain in horseshoes, sweepers, and any portion of the track where you will be driving mid to high speed and steering.
So, to get the best of both worlds one would want to keep the inner link where you have it, and fasion some sort of bracket to move the outer link further out. This will allow the rear to hold its transitoned weight better in a corner, while still allowing you to push the car "loose" while driving the car hard.
Nowthen, this is all compounded/obscured by the flexibillity (or lack thereof) in your rim assembly, and the profile of the tires you are running (round vs. flat).
Have fun! . -Jeff

kaszal wrote: Mine's the blue and white stripey one...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUUXkz-fdQA&context=C4172190ADvjVQa1PpcFPMsVhKzDkVRHB624uHn9asz-pHwNWlaos=