
Luke's Procat rebuild
Procat front pulley
CAN SOMEONE TELL ME THE WIDTH OF THE STANDARD PROCAT FRONT PULLEY T173?
I'D LIKE TO GET HOLD OF ONE IF SOMEONE CAN HELP.
Is there a different front pulley with fences that came with the 4wd super hex diff?
I have an overdrive pulley U289X and it's 7mm wide.
I'D LIKE TO GET HOLD OF ONE IF SOMEONE CAN HELP.
Is there a different front pulley with fences that came with the 4wd super hex diff?
I have an overdrive pulley U289X and it's 7mm wide.
new high torque belts?
I think the Schumacher U194 Hi Torque belts are 2mm GT pitch
The GT is a product code from the manufacturer Gates indicating the round tooth profile. These grip better and are less prone to skipping.

The original MXL belt had 324 teeth giving a pitch/length of 658mm
A similar length 2mm belt (660mm) would have 330T
This would be a great upgrade, as this was a weak point of the transmission.
(for the rear, a 73T 2mm belt would be similar length to a 72T MXL belt)
I wonder has anyone tried GT2/3 belts or have any engineering knowledge on this?
The GT is a product code from the manufacturer Gates indicating the round tooth profile. These grip better and are less prone to skipping.

The original MXL belt had 324 teeth giving a pitch/length of 658mm
A similar length 2mm belt (660mm) would have 330T
This would be a great upgrade, as this was a weak point of the transmission.
(for the rear, a 73T 2mm belt would be similar length to a 72T MXL belt)
I wonder has anyone tried GT2/3 belts or have any engineering knowledge on this?
it's not 2mm
I got some 2mm belts and unfortunately they don't fit the pulleys.
0.032mm does make a difference after all
On the original Schumacher U194 Hi Torque belts it says:
102072 x 5 3 338DS
What do these codes mean? Where can I can get an MXL pitch belt but with the rounded high torque teeth?
0.032mm does make a difference after all

On the original Schumacher U194 Hi Torque belts it says:
102072 x 5 3 338DS
What do these codes mean? Where can I can get an MXL pitch belt but with the rounded high torque teeth?
So many goodies
If you're interested, I'm having a sale on eBay...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-Schumacher-Cat-XLS-Procat-body-shell-undertray-belt-cover-and-wings-/270816114830?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f0de5f88e



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-Schumacher-Cat-XLS-Procat-body-shell-undertray-belt-cover-and-wings-/270816114830?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f0de5f88e



- Coelacanth
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Re: Procat rebuilt for Li-Fe batteries
Very nice, clean car, kaszal. I like the zebra-themed paint-job. I wonder why... 

Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Procat set up
It's been a while RC10talk!
I've got my Procat set up for Stotfold (astro turf with jumps) as follows
Front: Losi 30wt oil, 2x1.3mm dia. pistons, Schumacher 3.5 grey springs
Rear: Losi 30wt oil, 2x1.4mm dia. pistons, Schumacher 3 grey springs
Have a look at the photos below for ride height, droop and shock positions. What do you think? I'm setting the ride height to drive shafts level but I'm not sure if there is enough ground clearance.






I've got my Procat set up for Stotfold (astro turf with jumps) as follows
Front: Losi 30wt oil, 2x1.3mm dia. pistons, Schumacher 3.5 grey springs
Rear: Losi 30wt oil, 2x1.4mm dia. pistons, Schumacher 3 grey springs
Have a look at the photos below for ride height, droop and shock positions. What do you think? I'm setting the ride height to drive shafts level but I'm not sure if there is enough ground clearance.






- 8rad
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Re: Luke's Procat rebuild
I hate to burst your bubble Luke but thats not a Procat anymore. Its a UCSYKDTW(uber cool schumacher/yokomo/kyosho destroying track weapon!)
This has obviously been a labor of love for you and it shows. Absolutely stunning runner.
Lulalala....lalalala....lalalalalalalala.....ENGLAND!
This has obviously been a labor of love for you and it shows. Absolutely stunning runner.
Lulalala....lalalala....lalalalalalalala.....ENGLAND!
"It's not broken, it's British!"
rear hubs, camber gain etc.
I've been re-reading your detailed posts on suspension set-up. Very interesting, thank you Jeff. I've got the old style shotgun hubs, shall I change back again and see how it feels?Jay Dub wrote:It really depends on the track. With the longer upper link, it will give you more forward traction, and less side bite in high grip situations. This combined with a similar front camber gain will give you a more neutral handling car that will loose traction if pushed too hard (instead of traction rolling for example). This relates to something I have explained on other parts of this forum. The whole concept of every adjustment working on a "bell curve" of sorts.
Every adjustment has a maximum/perfect position, and any deviation from that adjustment means you will loose traction/speed/whatever it is you are tuning for. In this instance you could go shorter or longer than the "ideal" length and you would accomplish the same thing -less traction. However, they will react differently and this should be taken into consideration when chosing which option to try.
For example the shorter link, will usually generate more side bite in a high traction situation because it has more camber gain. However it will provide less forward bite, and can make the car loose on power (out of the corner). It is usually more "stable" in the regard that when it breaks loose, it does so less violently.
The shorter link however will allow less chassis roll and keep the car flatter. This is not necessarily a bad option, but usually not the best suited for a LOW traction situation as you are usually trying to find traction.
The shorter link may sound like a good option in high bite situations, but often times it will generate too much traction, and make the car very hard to drive at speed, and may lead to traction rolling.
If you look at most competitive cars today, they have simple but very refined geometries, that use less camber gain they we have been previously used to. This is in part because of modern tires having much more traction that in years past.
The biggest issue I see with this particular rear bracket (and hub assembly) is that in order to get the camber gain in the proper realm, you will need to run the upper link as far in as possible. This is ok, but having your upper links this far in causes the chassis to flatten out on power, and wright itself. This will cause the car to sea-saw back and forth on power in the corner, and make it difficult to hold a line.
This can be effective on a point and shoot track btw (into the corner hard, tight turn, and out of the corner hard), but a real pain in horseshoes, sweepers, and any portion of the track where you will be driving mid to high speed and steering.
So, to get the best of both worlds one would want to keep the inner link where you have it, and fasion some sort of bracket to move the outer link further out. This will allow the rear to hold its transitoned weight better in a corner, while still allowing you to push the car "loose" while driving the car hard.
Nowthen, this is all compounded/obscured by the flexibillity (or lack thereof) in your rim assembly, and the profile of the tires you are running (round vs. flat).
Have fun!![]()
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. -Jeff
Mine's the blue and white stripey one...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUUXkz-fdQA&context=C4172190ADvjVQa1PpcFPMsVhKzDkVRHB624uHn9asz-pHwNWlaos=
- DerbyDan
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Re: rear hubs, camber gain etc.
Ah, good old Stotfold.... last time I raced there was last summer (on a super hot day!) must get myself over there sometime soonkaszal wrote: Mine's the blue and white stripey one...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUUXkz-fdQA&context=C4172190ADvjVQa1PpcFPMsVhKzDkVRHB624uHn9asz-pHwNWlaos=

My T.C Showroom; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/member.asp?id=28990
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