RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

R/Cat wrote:Gotcha, although I assembled my fair share of cars in the 80's and, beyond removing excess sprue material, never had any of the fit-n-finish issues (deburring metal gears, grinding plates, etc) that some describe here with the RC10. While I never had to prepare a car for competitive/sanctioned racing, I always took pride (and still do) in making sure every moving part worked smoothly, properly and perfectly so they could've been raced if needed.

Can you tell me how I can add a link here to my Tamiyaclub showroom?

jwscab wrote:If you decide to put 3/8 x 5/8 bearings on the outdrives you can reduce some rriction by leaving out the unflanged bearing inside and making a brass ring to fill the gap. Then the outdrive has good support.

gomachv wrote:I tried that once without the brass, the outdrive is not held by the screw anymore- make sure if you do it (as said above) that you add that brass tube 3/16 ID and the width of the bearing so the screw still holds the outdrive

SnoopMaxx wrote:

jwscab wrote:If you decide to put 3/8 x 5/8 bearings on the outdrives you can reduce some rriction by leaving out the unflanged bearing inside and making a brass ring to fill the gap. Then the outdrive has good support.

gomachv wrote:I tried that once without the brass, the outdrive is not held by the screw anymore- make sure if you do it (as said above) that you add that brass tube 3/16 ID and the width of the bearing so the screw still holds the outdrive

Thanks

SteveK wrote:

SnoopMaxx wrote:

jwscab wrote:If you decide to put 3/8 x 5/8 bearings on the outdrives you can reduce some rriction by leaving out the unflanged bearing inside and making a brass ring to fill the gap. Then the outdrive has good support.

gomachv wrote:I tried that once without the brass, the outdrive is not held by the screw anymore- make sure if you do it (as said above) that you add that brass tube 3/16 ID and the width of the bearing so the screw still holds the outdrive

Thanks

The RC Car Action article about that, June '91 (about a month before the Stealth made this a moot point), they left out the screw and used some brass tubing on the outside of the outdrive, between the 3/8 x 5/8 bearing and the gear. It seems like using a spacer in place of the smaller bearing and a screw is a better idea than putting a spacer over the outdrive.

terry.sc wrote:

R/Cat wrote:Gotcha, although I assembled my fair share of cars in the 80's and, beyond removing excess sprue material, never had any of the fit-n-finish issues (deburring metal gears, grinding plates, etc) that some describe here with the RC10. While I never had to prepare a car for competitive/sanctioned racing, I always took pride (and still do) in making sure every moving part worked smoothly, properly and perfectly so they could've been raced if needed.

In 1985 I was racing a Frog, race preparation involved shimming the front suspension arms and drilling through them to sleeve them to take out play. Building the Frog gearbox took an hour or two, checking the side plates were flat, cleaning up the diff bevel gears and brass idler, lubricating everything correctly and spending ages shimming the diff outputs to get it to work as best as it could be, and then checking the diff play after every meeting. 99.99% of them would just be thrown together and work perfectly fine, but when racing at a decent level you did everything you could to get it as efficient as possible.

Can you tell me how I can add a link here to my Tamiyaclub showroom?

If you are logged in on Tamiyaclub, go here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/downloads.asp and the link to copy is in the first box underneath the wallpaper.Just paste it into your profile.

R/Cat wrote:Very interesting about the Frog and thanks for the link how-to. Somebody please let me know if it works. Thanks.

[url=http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=27356][img]http://www.tamiyaclub.com/images/logo_member2.gif[/img][/url]

terry.sc wrote:

R/Cat wrote:Very interesting about the Frog and thanks for the link how-to. Somebody please let me know if it works. Thanks.

Copy this code and paste it into your sig.

Code: Select all

[url=http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=27356][img]http://www.tamiyaclub.com/images/logo_member2.gif[/img][/url]

SnoopMaxx wrote:R/Cat..Your link don't work


I had to dig through all these


I found it


This photo really clarifies the modification
they just forgot that the screw and washer is still used to hold the outer bearing that replaces the felt and felt seal in step 11

R/Cat wrote:
Wow, I remember that issue like it was yesterday. I had so many issues saved and then had to toss them years ago to save space.

knixdad wrote:

R/Cat wrote:
Wow, I remember that issue like it was yesterday. I had so many issues saved and then had to toss them years ago to save space.

I do the opposite, I make more space

R/Cat wrote:

knixdad wrote:

R/Cat wrote:
Wow, I remember that issue like it was yesterday. I had so many issues saved and then had to toss them years ago to save space.

I do the opposite, I make more space

I should've done the SAME thing...I'm kicking myself now for getting rid of many dozens of issues. At least I didn't get rid of my r/c cars I've had since back then.