Intriguing ad in RC Car Action - RC10 re-release?

[terry.sc]

Gotcha, although I assembled my fair share of cars in the 80's and, beyond removing excess sprue material, never had any of the fit-n-finish issues (deburring metal gears, grinding plates, etc) that some describe here with the RC10. While I never had to prepare a car for competitive/sanctioned racing, I always took pride (and still do) in making sure every moving part worked smoothly, properly and perfectly so they could've been raced if needed.

In 1985 I was racing a Frog, race preparation involved shimming the front suspension arms and drilling through them to sleeve them to take out play. Building the Frog gearbox took an hour or two, checking the side plates were flat, cleaning up the diff bevel gears and brass idler, lubricating everything correctly and spending ages shimming the diff outputs to get it to work as best as it could be, and then checking the diff play after every meeting. 99.99% of them would just be thrown together and work perfectly fine, but when racing at a decent level you did everything you could to get it as efficient as possible.

Can you tell me how I can add a link here to my Tamiyaclub showroom?

If you are logged in on Tamiyaclub, go here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/downloads.asp and the link to copy is in the first box underneath the wallpaper.Just paste it into your profile.

[SnoopMaxx]

If you decide to put 3/8 x 5/8 bearings on the outdrives you can reduce some rriction by leaving out the unflanged bearing inside and making a brass ring to fill the gap. Then the outdrive has good support.

I tried that once without the brass, the outdrive is not held by the screw anymore- make sure if you do it (as said above) that you add that brass tube 3/16 ID and the width of the bearing so the screw still holds the outdrive

Thanks

[SteveK]

If you decide to put 3/8 x 5/8 bearings on the outdrives you can reduce some rriction by leaving out the unflanged bearing inside and making a brass ring to fill the gap. Then the outdrive has good support.

I tried that once without the brass, the outdrive is not held by the screw anymore- make sure if you do it (as said above) that you add that brass tube 3/16 ID and the width of the bearing so the screw still holds the outdrive

Thanks

The RC Car Action article about that, June '91 (about a month before the Stealth made this a moot point), they left out the screw and used some brass tubing on the outside of the outdrive, between the 3/8 x 5/8 bearing and the gear. It seems like using a spacer in place of the smaller bearing and a screw is a better idea than putting a spacer over the outdrive.

[SnoopMaxx]

If you decide to put 3/8 x 5/8 bearings on the outdrives you can reduce some rriction by leaving out the unflanged bearing inside and making a brass ring to fill the gap. Then the outdrive has good support.

I tried that once without the brass, the outdrive is not held by the screw anymore- make sure if you do it (as said above) that you add that brass tube 3/16 ID and the width of the bearing so the screw still holds the outdrive

Thanks

The RC Car Action article about that, June '91 (about a month before the Stealth made this a moot point), they left out the screw and used some brass tubing on the outside of the outdrive, between the 3/8 x 5/8 bearing and the gear. It seems like using a spacer in place of the smaller bearing and a screw is a better idea than putting a spacer over the outdrive.

Need to dig that mag out and re-read that article

[R/Cat]

Gotcha, although I assembled my fair share of cars in the 80's and, beyond removing excess sprue material, never had any of the fit-n-finish issues (deburring metal gears, grinding plates, etc) that some describe here with the RC10. While I never had to prepare a car for competitive/sanctioned racing, I always took pride (and still do) in making sure every moving part worked smoothly, properly and perfectly so they could've been raced if needed.

In 1985 I was racing a Frog, race preparation involved shimming the front suspension arms and drilling through them to sleeve them to take out play. Building the Frog gearbox took an hour or two, checking the side plates were flat, cleaning up the diff bevel gears and brass idler, lubricating everything correctly and spending ages shimming the diff outputs to get it to work as best as it could be, and then checking the diff play after every meeting. 99.99% of them would just be thrown together and work perfectly fine, but when racing at a decent level you did everything you could to get it as efficient as possible.

Can you tell me how I can add a link here to my Tamiyaclub showroom?

If you are logged in on Tamiyaclub, go here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/downloads.asp and the link to copy is in the first box underneath the wallpaper.Just paste it into your profile.

Very interesting about the Frog and thanks for the link how-to. Somebody please let me know if it works. Thanks.

[SnoopMaxx]

R/Cat..Your link don't work


I had to dig through all these


I found it


This photo really clarifies the modification
they just forgot that the screw and washer is still used to hold the outer bearing that replaces the felt and felt seal in step 11

[terry.sc]

Very interesting about the Frog and thanks for the link how-to. Somebody please let me know if it works. Thanks.

Copy this code and paste it into your sig.

Code: Select all

[url=http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=27356][img]http://www.tamiyaclub.com/images/logo_member2.gif[/img][/url]

[scr8p]

it's been in the scan archive for quite a few years......

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8834

[SnoopMaxx]

I know, I have all the RCCA on PDF as well

There's just something about flipping through an old mag compared to reading it on the screen

[R/Cat]

Very interesting about the Frog and thanks for the link how-to. Somebody please let me know if it works. Thanks.

Copy this code and paste it into your sig.

Code: Select all

[url=http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=27356][img]http://www.tamiyaclub.com/images/logo_member2.gif[/img][/url]

OK, thanks. done...testing with this post. Looks like it worked.

[R/Cat]

R/Cat..Your link don't work


I had to dig through all these


I found it


This photo really clarifies the modification
they just forgot that the screw and washer is still used to hold the outer bearing that replaces the felt and felt seal in step 11

Wow, I remember that issue like it was yesterday. I had so many issues saved and then had to toss them years ago to save space.

[knixdad]

Wow, I remember that issue like it was yesterday. I had so many issues saved and then had to toss them years ago to save space.

I do the opposite, I make more space

[R/Cat]

Wow, I remember that issue like it was yesterday. I had so many issues saved and then had to toss them years ago to save space.

I do the opposite, I make more space

I should've done the SAME thing...I'm kicking myself now for getting rid of many dozens of issues. At least I didn't get rid of my r/c cars I've had since back then.

[Diamond Dave]

In some stupid non thought process I dumped many many years of mags when I moved quite awhile ago. I will get em back one day.

[SteveK]

Wow, I remember that issue like it was yesterday. I had so many issues saved and then had to toss them years ago to save space.

I do the opposite, I make more space

I should've done the SAME thing...I'm kicking myself now for getting rid of many dozens of issues. At least I didn't get rid of my r/c cars I've had since back then.

I'm the opposite; I got all the PDFs on my iPad so I don't have to keep going into the basement looking through back issues LOL The only downside is they cut out the full-page ads, some of which come in handy.