RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Jul 06, 2024 1:24 am Nobody really used the single cup on the early cars, people installed the pack sideways. The holes were offset to one side as well, so the pack would have sat at a bit of an angle. It was for servo clearance with the speed control on one side but that never made it to production.

Now that you've said that, in looking at the JJH car, just noticed that's a custom drilled battery cup, the stock holes are next to the new ones.


Should probably leave both cups, would rather not drag the button head screws. Thanks again!

The Protech body has trouble with the JJH rear shock tower, and the shocks being moved in one hole.


I now see that everyone else just trimmed as much of the body away as they needed to fit the shocks.


Don't really want to trim any more off this Andy's body. Need to decide what to do here.

Got the decals rough cut. Also put the Edinger rear rims in the Pro-line tires, the 40th wheels were too bright for this.


Anyone know the story on why the MCI decal sheet also includes the number 4?

Here it is, with the number 4 and black wheels.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sun Jul 07, 2024 7:37 pm Here it is, with the number 4 and black wheels.

Number 6 actually won the 1985 IFMAR race, right?




Thanks!

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Mon Jul 08, 2024 2:24 am Number 6 actually won the 1985 IFMAR race, right?

Assuming that this is the right picture.

Here's the 1985 IFMAR race with JJH driving a 4WD RC10, with the number 2. They interview Jay at 6:05:


Not sure why the 4 car is in the magazine, but 6 is the number I'll go with.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Jul 06, 2024 7:19 pm


Don't really want to trim any more off this Andy's body. Need to decide what to do here.

Just curious- which one is the replica in this photo? Or are they both replicas?

1911Colt wrote: ↑Mon Jul 08, 2024 4:29 pm Just curious- which one is the replica in this photo? Or are they both replicas?

I was under the strong impression, that the pic with the Japanese writing on it, was the real deal. Taken from here:


Jim Halsey pinned diff ring mod - from the guide:


No doubt in my mind any longer about what JJH 2WD car it was at '85 IFMAR.

Went ahead and trimmed the body to the JJH rear shock position.


On the real car, the transmission brace body-mount is backwards.


Not sure how that will work with the wing, or why that was done in the first place.


Going to put the mount holes in the body, and then put the decals on. Working up the courage first, this is the make it or break it step, and I don't want the oval hole in front.

Had to use (4) of those thick washers to get the body post to mount.


The body puckers a bit around the mount.


That doesn't look right.




I've never once, since '96, put a stock body on an RC10 buggy or truck. Is that how this body is supposed to look, or is something wrong here?

might need to trim more from the nose's sides.

Also, if you're wondering why it doesn't fit exactly like JJH car keep in mind he trimmed the sides of his tub down a bit so the body does sit a tad bit lower than stock. You can see it in the article you posted.

Hole needs to be enlarged slightly since the post angles back. If you look at a new body the hole outline is oval shaped not round.

RogueIV wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2024 11:02 pm might need to trim more from the nose's sides.

Also, if you're wondering why it doesn't fit exactly like JJH car keep in mind he trimmed the sides of his tub down a bit so the body does sit a tad bit lower than stock. You can see it in the article you posted.

The body does take work to get it in the front of the chassis, trimming more around the nose braces sounds like the right thing to do. The front hole being oval might help not jam the body forward and make it pucker, too, but was trying to avoid that for the clean look.

The JJH tub is shorter on the sides, but the body mounts are the same approximate location and height, the rear shock tower won't let the body go any lower. Going to trim around the nose braces first. Thanks!

mikea96 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 10, 2024 12:40 am Hole needs to be enlarged slightly since the post angles back. If you look at a new body the hole outline is oval shaped not round.

That's what I was afraid of, I saw the oval cutout line on the nose, but had heard there was a way to avoid the oval by moving the hole slightly forward. I didn't get that exactly right.

I'll make the oval, after trimming around the nose braces a bit. Thanks!