RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

rctenracer wrote: ↑Tue May 28, 2024 2:53 am I could be wrong but it looks like in the picture servo or double sided tape was used. I really like your build and attention to detail.

Thanks for the encouragement, really appreciate it!

That must be DS tape, the body really isn't that heavy. Going to try to leave the paint on the bottom and use the DS tape over it, if the DS tape pulls off and takes the paint with it, I'll take those areas down to bare aluminum, and reapply the DS tape. Thanks again!

Reference pics of the actual movie car, for this page.
























The Dead Pool RC Corvette chase scene.

I finally figured out how to build the turnbuckles with no hassles, or damage to the ball cups.

I use this shock wrench to hold the shafts:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GT3MR86

Then use the round top plastic AE wrench to hold the ball cups.




I went through those turnbuckles so fast, and no marks to any of the ball cups. No more dreading those.

Was able to finish the 40th and TDP turnbuckles, easily.


Shocks are up next for both of these, TDP Fan RC shocks will be painted black when they're completed.

Going to use Birchwood Casey blue on the nose braces of TDP. Would like to blue the shocks too, but with anodizing, don't think they would take the color.

Finished the 40th chassis today. By building the 40th side by side with TDP, I can spot the parts I'm missing more easily, as the 40th is a complete kit.


Missing the lower front shock pins for TDP and the set screws, asc6224 on the way. Think those are the very last missing parts from the project.

I bought a used A stamp car recently that came with silver springs, and an NOS set of gold springs in a bag, the movie car is wearing the gold springs, so this one will too.

Here's the reason in the movie that there were two different license plate numbers, intentionally seen.


I was unable to find that video clip anywhere else, so I made that one. This scene comes before the big chase scene.

The story also goes, that the movie crew ran over the main vette, and a second vette had to be quickly made. Would like to know the details and truth on that someday.

Obligatory at this point .




Will get this going soon.

The nose braces are aluminum so I can't blue them, tried aluminum black on the nose braces and it was too fragile and sooty, scratched off too easily. Will paint the nose braces, to see how that works. Be back with results in a couple of hours.

Will let the shocks dry for a day, and assemble them tomorrow. Came out better than expected. The Reedy sticker was peeling up in the wrong spot, so I repainted the motor too.

The paint was a little soft still, might have waited another day to let the primer and top coat completely dry, but at least I'm not leaving fingerprints in the paint today.






Waiting for front shock pins and nylon nuts for the steering, can't do much with until then.


Need to figure out the bend on the side supports, and need the front suspension and wheels first.


Getting the test body fitted.


The kydex side wings are going to be the hard part to get the look and fit right.


Compass cutter for the wheel wells.





Like bowling or golf, it doesn't look that difficult on 'TV', but when you get out there and try it, it's a whole new appreciation for those sports. I say this because looking at the wheel wells that they cut out on the movie vette body, I'm not sure I'll ever get it as perfect as they have it there, the radius's, their location on both sides, evenly.





Glad I bought (2) of those vette body's, this is going to be the most difficult lexan body I've tried yet.


Any tips or recommendations for getting the wheel wells - that right?

There are no suggested wheel wells or arches, in the lexan, on the Bolink body.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Fri May 24, 2024 10:25 pm I wonder if they would have used their own #6192 chrome knockoffs

It's hard to tell with those in the bag still, but are the AE chrome knock offs, completely smooth, or do they have a rough texture with the chrome over it?

Here's the results of the Liquid Chrome paint pen. Rough surface, pen marks, not great.





Is there a spray can chrome, for nylon, that would be more convincing? How did AE do their chrome?

Another coat of chrome pen, it's getting smoother.



Going to try the Rustoleum Chrome next. Have some black wheels I want to try to chrome also.

Turns out it's the 40th nylon mold that has the rough texture to it.

Left is an original knock off from Edinger, middle is a 40th with no liquid chrome, on the right is a 40th with liquid chrome.




Lucky to have an original set of knockoffs, not sure I want to chrome them though. Will try the spray paint to see if it will smooth out the texture on the 40th's.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2024 8:02 pm How did AE do their chrome?

Vacuum metallization... the part is put in a vacuum chamber with an aluminum wire, drawn down, then current is applied across the wire which vaporizes the aluminum and the vacuum causes it to attach to the part. Over the last few years all the vacuum metallization places that catered to hobbyists have closed (owners retired) but never know when a search might turn up someone new.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2024 7:36 pm Any tips or recommendations for getting the wheel wells - that right?

The wheel openings on your HPI bodies look nice, could trace and transfer those. Or some printable templates wouldn't be hard to make.

If it were me I’d wait until I have the wheels and tires.
Put them on drop the clear body over them and start marking exactly where they need to be.

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Sat Jun 01, 2024 7:48 am

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2024 8:02 pm How did AE do their chrome?

Vacuum metallization... the part is put in a vacuum chamber with an aluminum wire, drawn down, then current is applied across the wire which vaporizes the aluminum and the vacuum causes it to attach to the part. Over the last few years all the vacuum metallization places that catered to hobbyists have closed (owners retired) but never know when a search might turn up someone new.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2024 7:36 pm Any tips or recommendations for getting the wheel wells - that right?

The wheel openings on your HPI bodies look nice, could trace and transfer those. Or some printable templates wouldn't be hard to make.

Thanks! I did read up on the process, and the current equipment necessary to do vacuum metalization, it's involved and expensive.

I'll draw up some wheel wells, and trace them on the overspray film outside of the Bolink body - but it won't be easy to get that exactly right.

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sat Jun 01, 2024 9:38 am If it were me I’d wait until I have the wheels and tires.
Put them on drop the clear body over them and start marking exactly where they need to be.

Definitely the way to go, I have some Bolink wheels/foam tires here that have flat spots and are already ruined, I'll use those as the stand in for the Dhawk foam wheels, and to learn how to trim on those Bolink tires too, will then fit the body to that.

Dhawk said around this middle of this month the wheels will be ready. I'll get as much done before then as I can.

Thanks guys!

Found a vintage NOS set of asc6192 knockoffs, not in chrome, but from the original smooth mold; $20 shipped was the right price for making the attempt to chrome them with pens or spray.

Seller's pics - in the mail.


Picked this brick up on ebay for $31, (14) cells of Sanyo yellow Cadnica's, same as the movie car, for the one you can see. Some other movie car bits in this pic.





(3) mint looking ones.



Chrome paint will be here tomorrow, will test the knockoffs with it. There's another product called Jenolite, that's a chrome over plastic, more expensive, may give a shot if all else fails.