RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I'm still waiting for my shorty lipo, not just because of the weight, but also the 60C! I currently use an old (3 years) LRP pack thats only 25C

it replaced my 24C Trackpower/Checkpoint, it may be 1/2 mental, but it really had tons of punch!

JK Racing wrote:it replaced my 24C Trackpower/Checkpoint, it may be 1/2 mental, but it really had tons of punch!

I am also looking to run it in my JRXS-R, so I can move the weight forward, the extra punch will be most welcome!

JK Racing wrote:it replaced my 24C Trackpower/Checkpoint, it may be 1/2 mental, but it really had tons of punch!

60c definitely will give more punch...

chriswolfson wrote:

JK Racing wrote:it replaced my 24C Trackpower/Checkpoint, it may be 1/2 mental, but it really had tons of punch!

60c definitely will give more punch...

In my experience with "punch" is that you will only notice it if your motor was wanting more than the battery could supply. In my sons 3300kv T4 I can't tell between a 20c and a 40c. Now in my 6900kv T4 I can tell the difference in response. In truth my choice is a 4600kv motor and a 5000mah 25c lipo. It runs great and seems to go forever.

So i just finished putting all the electronics, but suddenly realized that i have a trinity light weight slipper plates and thought of putting it in.

box stock and just change the plates. Rest is as per manual. Still waiting for my Tekin 8.5 and some tires.
Hope the stock Diff balls can hold up...


and with its future driver.



and oh, i also forgot, tires and Motor are on order.... hahhahaha....

jun, I am still running the stock diff balls, no issues. I have quite a few race days on my car now, probably 20+ packs run through it.

im hoping mine is properly built, hahahaha... but will also put a pre order on a Bfast Balls just to be sure. of all (like i had many) of the kit i have assembled, this is by far the most difficult one, coz it does not explain you just have to look and hope you are doing the right thing.. hahahah. also , is it just my kit, that the plastic bag does not indicate any sub labels ( e.g A-1, b-2) etc... very difficult to look or the parts with the bag not being sub labeled.

but..... one will realize that this kit had tons of time in the drawing boards.... solves the King pin problems that is always the problematic since ages... my only concern.. the E clips..... surely this should be changed. well overall kit is awesome.

they all look great!!! its killing me I havent been able to put the money together to get mine just yet. but I am thinking in the next few weeks one will be mine.

amain has a discount, i think $25 buks, if you want i still have one coupon i can give it to you if you want.? PM me.

buy buy buy.... and join the band wagon...

slow_jun wrote:amain has a discount, i think $25 buks, if you want i still have one coupon i can give it to you if you want.? PM me.

buy buy buy.... and join the band wagon...

thanks I have them also, I am I have to finish up this 1:1 car I am building for this guy first, then I will get it. it should only be a few weeks.

slow_jun wrote:im hoping mine is properly built, hahahaha... but will also put a pre order on a Bfast Balls just to be sure. of all (like i had many) of the kit i have assembled, this is by far the most difficult one, coz it does not explain you just have to look and hope you are doing the right thing.. hahahah. also , is it just my kit, that the plastic bag does not indicate any sub labels ( e.g A-1, b-2) etc... very difficult to look or the parts with the bag not being sub labeled.

but..... one will realize that this kit had tons of time in the drawing boards.... solves the King pin problems that is always the problematic since ages... my only concern.. the E clips..... surely this should be changed. well overall kit is awesome.

As far as the diff, make sure you take your time - run it pretty tight to start - and re-tighten it after each run for the first 5 or so packs through the car. Stock balls will last that way. Make sure the slipper is slipping before the diff and you will be ok.

As far as the e-clips - although I have no issues with them - they are a solid design we've used for years - there is a solution already out there from TLR. They have hinge pins and king pins that use nuts rather than e-clips or the 4wd style threaded screws on the kingpin. Here are some links...

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=TLR2056

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=TLR1043

So a while ago I finally got my 22 (month ago) and started the whole build process. Friday I finally got the shocks done. Before I could get done with the rest, a Horizon Hobby sponsored driver in my area asked to use it in some races coming up. Apparently he can't get a kit because Horizon is out of stock. So I packed it all up in the box and handed it off to them. I will either get my car back all set up real nice or another new kit when theirs comes in. Think I would rather have one that is set up nice for racing. I suck at that part.

I think I should demand that he says he is sponsored by vintagelosi.com. Only problem is that it isn't a vintage buggy, dang it.

mytimac wrote:So a while ago I finally got my 22 (month ago) and started the whole build process. Friday I finally got the shocks done. Before I could get done with the rest, a Horizon Hobby sponsored driver in my area asked to use it in some races coming up. Apparently he can't get a kit because Horizon is out of stock. So I packed it all up in the box and handed it off to them. I will either get my car back all set up real nice or another new kit when theirs comes in. Think I would rather have one that is set up nice for racing. I suck at that part.

I think I should demand that he says he is sponsored by vintagelosi.com. Only problem is that it isn't a vintage buggy, dang it.

Definitely take the car that is setup. It will have everything worked out and broken in. Saves a ton of headaches. Just drop it on the track and rip it up!

btw - here's a pic of my 22 and my XXX4...