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juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sat Aug 17, 2024 2:23 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Aug 17, 2024 2:07 pm They were wired in parallel. Check again.

What I mean is that amperage can't be forced through a device. At a given voltage, an (non-faulty) led should have a consistent amperage draw.

Being wired is parallel will only increase the total draw at the source, not the individual draw.

I suspect that the power supply wasn't stable, causing voltage swings. I've seen some pretty "dirty" power supplies that just disagree with some devices, regardless if they look to be correct.

A Hobbywing 1060 will supply those LED's all day long, in parallel and directly connected to the channel switch, the only difference is the ESC.

I think those LED's I used are faulty, I just turned on my Kyosho Beetle, and only one of those LED's works now.



Glad to know it wasn't the ESC.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sat Aug 17, 2024 2:23 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Aug 17, 2024 2:07 pm They were wired in parallel. Check again.

What I mean is that amperage can't be forced through a device. At a given voltage, an (non-faulty) led should have a consistent amperage draw.

Being wired is parallel will only increase the total draw at the source, not the individual draw.

I suspect that the power supply wasn't stable, causing voltage swings. I've seen some pretty "dirty" power supplies that just disagree with some devices, regardless if they look to be correct.

From:
https://www.ledsupply.com/blog/wiring-leds-correctly-series-parallel-circuits-explained/

The downfall of multiple LED strings:

One thing to keep in mind about running parallel and series/parallel circuits is that if a string or LED burns out, the LED/string will then be cut out of the circuit so the extra current load that was going to that LED will then be distributed to the rest. This isn’t a huge issue with larger arrays as the current will be dispersed at smaller amounts but what about a circuit with just 2 leds/strings? The current would then be doubled for the left over LED/string which might be a higher load than the LED can handle resulting in a burn out and ruining your LED! Make sure you always keep this in mind and try to have a set up that wouldn’t ruin all your LEDs if one happened to burn out.

The problem is with the series circuits. As individual leds fail, the voltage increases.

But something else to keep in mind is that leds are polarity sensitive, like any other diode. If whoever assembled those pigtails got the polarity backwards, it could cause you some problems.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sat Aug 17, 2024 2:41 pm The problem is with the series circuits. As individual leds fail, the voltage increases.

But something else to keep in mind is that leds are polarity sensitive, like any other diode. If whoever assembled those pigtails got the polarity backwards, it could cause you some problems.

Those LED's all worked fine initially, I did test them, so anodes and cathodes were correctly connected.

Parallel wiring is also susceptible to inrush current. I just killed the last LED in my Kyosho Beetle, by powering it off and on again, with only (1) bulb working and the other (2) burnt out, the last one gave up as a result.

Should've added current limiting resistors, like @XLR8 has on his.

I'll be using the Tamiyia TLU-01 come tomorrow, which has a resistor for every LED on the controller.

This had nothing do with the ESC's, fortunately, the LED's weren't faulty either, just another hard lesson learned.

Decal squeegees were in the mailbox. They have a really soft felt edge, for not scratching anything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K7CGY4Q


If the LED controllers arrive tomorrow, this should get done.

Gold inserts?


Or not?








Had some trouble with the front windshield on the passenger side.






LED's will go in tomorrow.

The placement of these decals was the hardest I've done yet. So many things need to line up, and if you don't know where the numbered decal system is taking you ahead of time, it can go wrong quick. I feel like I could do much better a second time, now that I know what went wrong.

For anyone about to attempt this body, make sure the front windshield is lined up exactly even and where it should be, if this is off or crooked, the other decals will be off too, the front is the first window decal they have you place.

Still have to mount this and get the clearances for the wells.

Personally I think the one piece cncrc aluminum wheels would be bad ass. The gold insert look works, but I prefer the all silver look.

Sadly he sold out in a couple hours so they may be hard to get until he runs another batch.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Aug 18, 2024 4:21 am Gold inserts? Or not?

Silver is cool... but for a Bandit tribute... gotta go with the gold!

Thanks for the input, guys!

Those aluminum wheels get me every time, would really like a set of those cncrc, or maybe see if Jimmy at Dhawk could make some authentic snowflakes, silver and gold, like the old See's for RC10L.

Bandit body on The Dead Pool chassis and wheels.






I do have a second brand new set of these wheels, which might be best for the street for the DS, that way I wouldn't have to ruin the stock, irreplaceable DS wheels and tires.

Also, forgot to mention this, there is no front license plate holder. I put a decal on there already, and it tore trying to make it fit the contours, it has nothing to stick to. Going to have to make a plate holder. Wonder why they did this?

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Aug 18, 2024 3:06 pm
...Wonder why they did this?

Because they are ugly?

They don't issue a front "tag" in my state and I've grown to appreciate how clean the front of our cars look without them. When a front tag holder is provided, I'll remove it from my 1:1 vehicles.

Okay, so I understand that your doing a Bandit replica so a front tag is pretty much a necessity. I'd probably just make one from scrap lexan and stick it with servo tape.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 18, 2024 4:25 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Aug 18, 2024 3:06 pm
...Wonder why they did this?

Because they are ugly?

They don't issue a front "tag" in my state and I've grown to appreciate how clean the front of our cars look without them. When a front tag holder is provided, I'll remove it from my 1:1 vehicles.

Okay, so I understand that your doing a Bandit replica so a front tag is pretty much a necessity. I'd probably just make one from scrap lexan and stick it with servo tape.

very true, I have no front plates on my Bus or truck, disrupts the body lines.

But I have to have the confederate flag plate on there, it was in the movie in '77, and it doesn't mean to me what the PC crowd insists it does. Forgetting history, is for the doomed.



I'll see if I can paint a rectangular scrap of lexan with Alclad II for the chrome bezel look for the plate holder, and then like you said, just try to build a foundation over the body angles/contours with the DS tape. Thanks!

Got the LED controller today.


Hot glue to set the LED's in the buckets.








Will get the wires routed and tacked down, and then see about fitting this body on the DS.

With the window decals, the tint wasn't dark enough, too many visible wires with the LED's, and no Bandit and Carrie in there.

Went a bit too far again with the PS-31 smoke tint. In the sun you can see through it, but it looks like blacked out limo tint in these pics.


The body rigged up to approximate mount height.


Tinting the windows made the remaining air bubbles in the window decals show up, going to take care of those.