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Frankentruck wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2024 3:59 pm Factory Works bellcrank setup would be even better, and it has color options now.

I see:
https://factoryworks.com/shop/ols/products/11180

Want to keep this one a stock example of a mid-late Edinger, on the outside, bearings and 6-gear hopup can't really be seen, but felt.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2024 4:12 pm Want to keep this one a stock example of a mid-late Edinger, on the outside, bearings and 6-gear hopup can't really be seen, but felt.

Natural color is selectable to the right of the photo...


...you can also stiffen up the servo saver by cinching both sides together with a zip tie... was a period trick.

This particular RC10 is a really complete and original mid-late Edinger, want it to be frozen in time between 1985-1987, in appearance.


The bottom of this one is really clean too, making it tough to drive just anywhere.


Are there any good clear protectors for the bottom?

Stock diff hub on the left has the correct diameter for the center of the spur gear, the JJH diff hub on the right is too small, the spur gear won't center.


The only problem with the JJH hub.


I looked through the ad and didn't see what else I could be missing.


No instructions were provided.

Apparently there is a bushing that is supposed to go on the diff tube.


If these standard bushings that come with the RC10 didn't have the flange, these would be perfect ID, and OD for the hub and spur gear.

Wonder why they did that.

Should be a 1/4 x 3/8 bearing

GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2024 7:27 pm Should be a 1/4 x 3/8 bearing

Straight from the horse's mouth, thanks for posting the directions!

Thinking this is the right one - 1/4x3/8x1/8 Rubber Sealed Bearing R168-2RS:
https://www.fasteddybearings.com/1-4x3-8x1-8-rubber-sealed-bearing-r168-2rs/

Yeah just a standard plain bearing like the 10t rear axles use.

Thanks for the confirmation, ordering that bearing now.

Will get back to this asap. Looking forward to putting this all in order.


FastEddy's bearings is only a few hours from here, as it turns out, should have that bearing soon.

That was the correct bearing, everything went together smoothly after that.


One of the very last steps of the JH Guide.






Will completely finish this tomorrow.

Going to take this car in the direction of a Jammin' Jay Halsey tribute, to both the 1985 race car, and the RC10 in the movie The Dead Pool. Not going to mod the chassis or make an exact replica, exterior will be close as I can get it though.





The Andy's body


- and MCI decals, gets me half way there.


Found one of the harder parts to get for this, the Pro-Line 100-F front rims.


Was lucky to have caught an auction for: Vintage Team CRP Front Stub Axles 1552 Associated RC10 to Tamiya 5x11 Bearings - RC10 front bearings won't work for these wheels.


The Diamond tires it came with will work for the moment, but the correct knobby's are one of the hardest parts to find.


It was recently brought to my attention, that the actual JJH 1985 race winner was using vintage 50153 Tamiya Holiday Buggy rear tires; the RI Holiday Buggy doesn't have those same vintage style tires. These may be one of the hardest to find parts for this.
https://tamiyabase.com/parts/815
Reference pic - not mine:



Instead, going to use vintage Pro-Line 109-R for the rear, I like the sidewall writing.




The 40th wheels came with smaller spacer/donuts.


Instructions say to use the smaller spacer with vintage aftermarket tires.


I would've used the original Edinger rear rims for this, but the PO glued the tires to the rims. Going to leave them stock. The 40th wheels seem really white in comparison.

The RC10 prototype was based on VW and Porsche, according to Gene Husting, on page 5 of his book:
https://www.stevehusting.com/doubtbusters/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/prototype_rc10.pdf

An early Hot VW's bumper sticker.



Really like that the JJH paint job was a tribute to Hot VW's.

Got the JJH towers today, will get those installed.

Turns out the front rims are supposed to be Chrome, not black, will correct that somehow in the future.

If this mid-late Edinger had come with the box, manual, and original body, I would've left it all stock.

Need to work up the courage to cut out the Andy's body.

If you have a spare body that is cut right or even not cut right you can use it as a template. Made masking tape marks to show where the cut should be less, curves, etc. place the old body over the fresh one and draw the cut lines. I've done this a few times on difficult fits

GoMachV wrote: ↑Fri Jul 05, 2024 10:25 pm If you have a spare body that is cut right or even not cut right you can use it as a template. Made masking tape marks to show where the cut should be less, curves, etc. place the old body over the fresh one and draw the cut lines. I've done this a few times on difficult fits

Appreciate the tip and those sweet JJH towers, thanks!

I do have a Protech body already cut for the 40th. It's the narrow part around the nose that gets tricky with just a #11 x-acto blade, will use the curved scissors in the tight bends and the blade for the rest. It will haunt me forever if I go outside the lines on the Andy's body, I'll probably wait until tomorrow to try it


Here's something odd, the 40th has countersunk holes for using a single battery cup, this Edinger is not countersunk in that spot.
40th on the left Ed. on the right:






Did everyone just use button head screws for the single battery cup location back then?

Nobody really used the single cup on the early cars, people installed the pack sideways. The holes were offset to one side as well, so the pack would have sat at a bit of an angle. It was for servo clearance with the speed control on one side but that never made it to production.