RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Thanks for the compliment Lightning78.
I think fellow members here above said everything needed about T2 conversion.

-Niki-

Thank you for all the input on the T2 chassis everyone!

The rear mount holes will not be a problem I'm plenty capable of accomplishing those and I understand what's involved to do that.

The reason I want to use the T to chassis is because yes the length is slightly longer but it is currently set back in the shortest position possible in other words move back to the second set of holes in the nose plate so once finished it will have the same wheelbase as the rc10 b5m that I have. I've already checked on this. I found a 4mm user I can't remember who a while back made in old is new rc10 be 1.5 Buggy Out of the tri to chassis and use the Klein dynotech arms.
I thought these had the same set of mounting positions no?

Here is the thread that inspired me

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=34692

If you don't shorten the chassis, it will not be quadra-symmetric. If all you care about is getting the wheelbase as long as your b5, but still want the long arms, just get a set of dynotech arms and you can use your stock rear arm mounts.

Actually, I guess the lines would still intersect in the center, they'd just be stretched out.

Carry on....

Scr8p i appreciate every bit of advice you can provide, your woin builds are second to none and ive been wanting to build one or my own style of one ever since I discovered your threads on the woin RC10's you made.

I originally bought the T2 as a roller to rebuild for driving on the track for practice and race days. I love driving vintage buggies and trucks EVERY bit as much as the modern Buggies and Trucks. The dynamic differences between the way they drive and handle, challenge of setup and the individual quirks of each model. Plus i feel it will make me a much more well rounded driver going forward.
When i go to the track i charge a battery for each buggy/truck i have and drive them till the battery is dead or the vehicle is busted lol. My B5m 8.5t, B44.2 10.5t, GT-E 8.5t, B3 13.5t, T3 13.5t and soon to be ready T4.1 or 4.2 (not sure) 8.5t all have their own independednt set of brushless electronics and lipo battery. All are driven off of my Gt3b controller.

I used to race every single weekend when i was 14-18 ...soon as i got my license i was driving an hour to and from the track in Sscramento every weekend. All funded from mowing lawns in my neighborhood lol..... here i am 25 years later back into it full force and relearning everything again.
Anyway ive always wanted to build the RPM Worlds style RC10 with the long travel front end, my goal was to widen the RC10 to max legal limits exactly like your builds were done and I was hell bent on the Klein arms but i think he wants $12 to ship the 4 arms to socal....that sort of turned me off to the idea so i was poking around for other alternatives and came across the quadra symmetric threads and arms on imaterialize. From what i read the quad qrms are even wider than the klein style arms but once I use the b4 wheels and caster blocks, hexes etc i felt it would be perfect and since I had the T2 roller sitting around, between that and my GT-E mid motor truck, I have plenty of parts to perform the build less the arms and cva/d's. Plus i know the dimensions to the 10t are nearly identical on the chassis and the dude i bought the T2 from had somehow shortened the front nose plate to make the overall chassis shorter, however yes it'll be as long as my B5M and B44.2. I figured since widening the track front and rear, the var would naturally benefit form some extended wheelbase. I have only seen one other build like this and thought it turbed out really cool. I guess the quadra arms have to use different mounts? Am i going to just have to use klein style arms? I do understand the lines will be a little stretched out, my goal as stated above is probably 70% a wider longer travel rc10 that mimics the old RPM worlds cars i used to drool over.

If I am missing any important details.....please let me know I am all ears or ..... eyes for that matter lol.

The purpose behind the quadra symmetric design is to give the front and rear suspension the same geometry. Same arm length, same chassis width. So in order to accomplish that with the tub with no mods, the arm mounts needed to squeeze in ever so slightly. If you don't really care about that as scr8p said, you could just use standard mounts and klien arms. It would just be slightly not symmetric.

Ok it looks like im going to go that route then.....i dont mind the $9 per arm just a little funky paying like $12 in shipping but alas its going to happen. Ill post pics of my build once im done.

Picking up a B4 factory team this weekend finishing my T4.1 ..... is the geqrbox case any different for gear diff vs ball diff?

Nikki: Could you make up Carbon Fiber Chassis for the Quadra - symmetric RC 10? I need 5 of 'em.

I can make a design and drawing, but finding a maker for CF chassis can be tricky. Depends on the design. Did you have in mind a 10T nose plate chassis with flat CF mid/rear section or a complete CF chassis with kickup nose and all?

Niki wrote: ↑Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:24 am I can make a design and drawing, but finding a maker for CF chassis can be tricky. Depends on the design. Did you have in mind a 10T nose plate chassis with flat CF mid/rear section or a complete CF chassis with kickup nose and all?

I was thinking about a 10T nose plate chassis with a flat CF mid / rear section.

If these are done with a bolt on nose plate I can help with cutting them, but without a brace up top you will find yourself bending noseplates. Maybe a upper like the ones we use on the CC style kits would help. It would need to be designed for the nix chassis tho

I don't mind the fiberglass construction,as long as it's Black...lol. I like the upper chassis brace...if it's large enough for a full length lipo? Otherwise I'll have to get new batteries (not a big deal).Please send me a PM for the price on 6.

pic was shown for concept only. That upper brace wouldn’t fit anything but the chassis it is on. Best to get with Niki and see if he wants to draw up a chassis set with upper chassis. I’m sure he will chime in

How about wheelbase?
I started designing with tub chassis lenght, wheelbase is 268mm, when nose is mounted in it's shortest position. This might be the shortest setup you can still fit a standard size 2S in.